Models

Mary Quant’s New Greasepots

1970s, barbara daly, Cathee Dahmen, Hair and make-up, Honey Magazine, Make-up, mary quant, Vintage Adverts
Advert for Mary Quant greasepot cosmetics.
“Dip your fingers in my colours. Give your eyes and lips a shine.”

Model is Cathee Dahmen.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Scanned from Honey, October 1971.

Patricia Roberts Knitting Patterns

1970s, jap, Joanna Jacobs, knitwear, manolo blahnik, Margaret Howell, Patricia Roberts, rolph gobits, Sheilagh Browne, sheridan barnett, Wendy Dagworthy, zapata

Patricia Roberts designs exclusive hand knits worn by the famous and sold in the most prestigious fashion boutiques in Europe and America.

In 1976 she opened a knitting shop at 60 Kinnerton Street, London S.W.1., selling her own brand of hand knitting wools called “Woollybear Yarns”.

Such was the success of these pure natural yarns dyed in beautiful flattering colours, that buyers from prestige storesthroughout the country were quick to include them in their ranges.

1978 sees the first of Patricia’s magazines to be published independently. All the designs are knitted in Patricia’s “Woollybear Yarns”.

For the first time knitters will have the opportunity to knit these patterns in the luxurious and inexpensive yarns, for which Patricia’s designs are intended.

Happy Knitting!

Possibly some of the loveliest photographs I have ever seen in a knitting pattern booklet, but perhaps unsurprising given the designer is Patricia Roberts and the photographer Rolph Gobits.

Art Direction by Desmond Serjeant.

Hair by Smile.

Make-up by Mary Vango.

Models: Joanna Jacobs, Kelly, Jane Rochelle, Kevin Hand, Helmut.

Photographed by Rolph Gobits.

Scanned from Patricia Roberts Knitting Patterns, 1978.

“Harold and Maude” – Trousers by Jap, shirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett.
‘Fruit Machine’ – Paisley print shirt and trousers by Wendy Dagworthy. Black trousers by Victor Herbert.
‘The Whisperers’ – Her skirt and jacket by 11342; his trousers and shirt by Margaret Howell; her shoes by Zapata.
‘Jigsaw’ – Trousers by Patricia Roberts.
‘Blithe Spirit’ – Skirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett. Shoes by Zapata.
‘Gentleman Prefer Blondes’ – Shirt by Wendy Dagworthy. Trousers by Daily Blue. Shoes by Walkers.
‘Kaleidoscope’ – Blue shirt by Margaret Howell; check shirt by Paul Howie. Skirt by Jap.
‘A man…’ – Shirt and trousers by Margaret Howell.
‘…and a Woman’ – Trousers by Jap, shirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett.
‘Midnight Lace’ – Trousers and skirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett. Shoes by Zapata.
‘John & Mary’ – His shirt and trousers by Margaret Howell. Her trousers by Daily Blue, her shirt by Wendy Dagworthy.
‘Two for the Road’ – Shirt and trousers by Margaret Howell.
‘Some Like it Hot’ – His shirt and trousers by Margaret Howell. Her trousers by Jap, shirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett.
‘Ninotchka; – Shirt by Sheilagh Brown and Sheridan Barnett, trousers by Jap, Belt by Mulberry Company.
‘A Touch of Class’ – Shirt by Margaret Howell; Waistcoat by Patricia Roberts; skirt by Michiko.
‘Joey Boy’ – Trousers by Margaret Howell.
Patricia Roberts photographed by Rolph Gobits.

“So many things are now mass produced, that there is a growing belief in individuality. Hand knitting is an expression of this freedom, which anyone can enjoy.”

Autumn Midicine

1970s, Adrian Mann, Alan Rodin, anello and davide, Angela at London Town, autumn, biba, charlotte martin, clobber, elisabeth novick, georgina linhart, gladrags, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, Jolly Boy, Louis Feraud, Pourelle, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, simon massey, terry de havilland, Vintage Editorials
LEFT: Zig-zag Dralaen midi shirt dress, 8 gns., with a charcoal grey ribbed waistcoat. 4 gns., both by Georgina Linhart; pale grey leather boots, Sacha, 9 gns. RIGHT: Swirly skirted printed Dicel crepe dress with tightly laced wide wet-look belt, Simon Massey, £12 5s.; tightly laced suede boots, Anello and Davide, 16 gns.

This is definitely the Season of the Midi, which involves a whole new set of fashion rules. Midis look best without an inch of leg showing, which means either long tight-fitting boots to take over where the midi finishes, or coloured tights matching clumpy-heeled shoes. So keep gulping; daily doses will keep you in the pink, fashion wise.

Aside from all the dreamy autumnal clothes and the fact that the blonde model is Charlotte Martin, it’s so lovely to see Terry de Havilland’s early and legendary three-tier wedges. As so often with Terry’s shoes, they are erroneously credited to the stockists (here ‘Jolly Boy’), but it’s still lovely to see them.

Photographed by Elisabeth Novick.

Scanned from Honey, August 1970.

LEFT: Giant sunflower•printed drawstring Acrylic knitted midi dress, Clobber, 7 gns.; silver clover-leaf buckled belt, Fifth Avenue. 77s. 6d.; lavender tights Mary Quant, 9s. 11d.; snakeskin wedge-heel shoes, Jolly Boy, 9 gns. RIGHT: Wavy banded pink printed wool midi dress, Simon Jeffrey, 8 gns.; dusty pink tights, Twiggy, 7s.; two-tone wedge-heel snakeskin shoes, Jolly Boy, 9 gns.
LEFT: Tubular rollneck diamond jacquard midi dress, Clobber, 7 gns.; circular suede and leather thonged belt. Adrien Mann, 84s.; pale pink tights, Twiggy, 7s.; co-respondent snakeskin shoes, Jolly Boy, 9 gns. RIGHT: Slender zipped-up jacquard wool-mixture midi dress, Gladrags, £9; olive green printed chiffon scarf, Sara Jane, 59s.; pear-shaped leather linked belt, Ian Mankin, 80s.; plum tights, Mary Quant, 9s. 11d.; two-tone snakeskin sandals, Jolly Boy, 9 gns.
LEFT: Petrol blue and yellow side-split jacquard jersey midi dress, Angela at London Town, 10 gns.; knee-high navy canvas boots, Biba, £7 105.; dusty blue tights, Mary Quaff, 9s. 11d.; black leather belt with oval gilt eyelets, Strides, 84s. RIGHT: Bottle green micro-speckled jacquard jersey zipped-through midi dress, Gladrags, 10 gns.; Neapolitan printed silk scarf, Chester Martin, 63s.; black canvas boots. Biba, £7 10s.
Kaleidoscopic fluted Dicel crepe midi dress, Simon Massey, £11; purple tights, Twiggy, 7s.; leg-hugging lace-up suede boots Anello and Davide, 16 gns.
Random rose-printed Shetland cowl-neck midi dress. Georgina Linhart, 13 gns.; waist-cinching silver buckled belt, Fifth Avenue, 77s. 6d.
LEFT: Terracotta and create button-through Courtelle neospun jacquard coat dress (with matching trousers not shown), Alan Rodin, 15 gns.; sheer smokey brown tights, Berkshire, 9s.; swirly rust and cream printed silk scarf, Chester Martin, 63s. RIGHT: Maroon and beige jacquard jersey midi dress with plain jersey skirt, Angela at London Town, 11i gns.; sheer black coffee tights, Wolford, 13s.; pearlised brown strappy shoes, Mary Quant, 75s.
LEFT: Toffee and grey striped wool midi vest dress, Kadix, £7 10s.; tan’ wood and leather thonged belt, Adrien Mann, 90s.; burnt orange tights, Mary Quant, 9s. 11d.; tightly laced rust suede boots, Anello and Davide, 16 gns. RIGHT: Chevron printed Cossack dress in black, brown and grey Courtelle jacquard knit, Georgina Linhart, 13 gns.; beige leg-hugging boots, from a selection at Russell and Bromley.
LEFT: Leather tasselled bitter chocolate angora wool jersey shirt dress, Miss Feraud, £13 10s.; brown and pink geometric printed silk scarf, Chester Martin, 635.; rust suede lace-up boots, Anello and Davide, 16 gns. RIGHT: Clingy plum and cream honeycomb-printed wool jersey vest dress, Pourelle, 10 gns.; triangular suede linked belt, Adrien Mann, 65s.; tight-fitting beige boots, from a selection at Russell and Bromley.

Something long and cool

19 magazine, 1970s, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, erica budd, Essences, Essenses, Inspirational Images, janice wainwright, jean junction, medusa, Michael Berkofsky, Uschi Obermaier, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
Green cotton jersey t-shirt from Jean Junction. Floral print skirt from a selection at Van Der Fransen. Scarf around head from a selection at Biba.

You’re on holiday. It’s evening. You feel like dressing up, but staying casual. Something that’ll take you just anywhere. These skirts are ideal. Right for the beach. Perfect for a rendezvous.

(One of the models I believe is Uschi Obermaier.)

Photographed by Michael Berkofsky.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1973.

Silk head scarves from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Both tops and long skirt made with different fabrics, from Van Der Fransen.
Silk scarf from a selection at Essences. White lacy top by Erica Budd. Long cotton skirt by Janice Wainwright.
Silk scarf from a selection at Essences. Yellow t-shirt trimmed with plastic ring from Biba. Cotton floral skirt by Medusa. All jewellery from local markets in Kenya.
Black printed scarf from a selection at Essences. Black bra top by Erica Budd. Black cotton skirt with embroidered floral by Janice Wainwright.

Patterns of Persian Living

1970s, Ann Turkel, Henry Clarke, Inspirational Images, interior design, interiors, Michael Szell, thea porter, Vogue
Michael Szell in the bedroom of his London flat. The rolls of fabric, his new collection of Persian prints for Thea Porter. The dress, simply one length from the range worn like a caftan.

Michael Szell is the Hungarian fabric designer who is introducing Iran to London via a new collection of designs, taken up by Thea Porter for her romantic and ravishing evening dresses. His own bedroom, opposite, is in rich emerald, turquoise and brown arabesqued linen, cool and grand by day but rich and warm by electric light, with 18th-century Eng-lish paintings and mirrors. His drawing-room, below, is turquoise with brilliant Persian prayer mats colouring the walls, 18th-century English botanical china, and a mixed forest of hyacinth and growing orchids, later bluebells and orchids. Iran runs through Michael Szell’s life like a thread. He began to visit friends and connections there while he was still a child, used every possible holiday to get there while he studied economics at Aberystwyth University, and later when he worked with Sir Nicholas Sekers. His love for Persian ceramics, buildings and woven carpets developed into a passion for early Islamic art in its formal, random, asymmetric period before it came to represent life in the 19th-century : a passion culminating in his opening his own furnishing fabric showrooms at 47 Sloane Avenue. He began selling silk signature scarves to Henri Bendel of New York in 1969 and has just produced his new Persian collection of fabrics. Thea Porter asked him to print his designs onto silk chiffon for her and made them in flowing evening dresses with yards of floating sleeve and skirt.

For the coronation of the Shahanshah and the Empress of Iran, Michael Szell designed curtains, chair-fabrics and an entire state banquet for the Golestan Palace. He has been asked again to help with the decorations for the great October celebrations—the twenty-fifth centenary of the founding of the Persian Empire. He will contribute designs for the interiors of houses and for some of the 500 tents that are planned, with their own marble bathrooms, for the royal and distinguished guests who will take part in the celebrations at Persepolis, the ruined city and ancient capital.

Mr Szell has also been asked to provide the fabrics for all the palace sets in the new Universal film Mary, Queen of Scots, starring Vanessa Redgrave as Mary and Glenda Jackson as Elizabeth. He has an unrealised ambition to produce an absolutely modern collection of very cheap fabrics “from chair covers to plastic shower curtains”.

Model is Ann Turkel.

Photographed by Henry Clarke.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1971.

Midnight blue Persian curlicues on azure silk chiffon. Sleeves dipping to the ground and gathered at the wrists, the bodice fitted, skirt soft and gathered. £78, at Thea Porter, 8 Greek St. Persian necklaces, both pages, from Michael Szell’s own collection.

Discerning Palette

1980s, Ally Capellino, Hair and make-up, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, leonard, Make-up, Sandra Lousada, Sophie Ward, yves saint laurent

Put aside everything you’ve ever been taught about make-up. Look at colour afresh, not as a consumer of cosmetics but as a painter might.

Oatmeal cotton smock by Ally Capellino, from all branches of Whistles. Straw hat by Extras from Hobbs. Palette and brushes from a selection at George Rowney.

Make-up by Ariane using colours from Yves Saint Laurent’s L’Eté Bleu collection.

Hair by Leonard.

Modelled by Sophie Ward.

Photographed by Sandra Lousada.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, June 1983.

What turns summer nights into midsummer evenings?

1970s, anne schaufuss, belinda bellville, Browns, chelsea cobbler, david bailey, Emmanuelle Khanh, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, medusa, pablo and delia, Simone Mirman, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent
Dress by Medusa. Hat from Herbert Johnson.

This is the moment for evening clothes that feel as delicious as they look… they’re soft voile or fine jersey or crushed muslin, they’re cut out over suntanned backs and arms, they’re crisp cotton printed with cottage curtain flowers, they’re as easy to wear as nightdresses: and some of them are.

Photographed at Lake Windermere and the Beech Hill Hotel, Cartmel Fell.

Photographed by David Bailey.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1972.

Dress to order at Browns. Hat from Simone Mirman. Choker from Arabesque.
Dress by Pablo and Delia at Browns. Hat by Herbert Johnson. Sandals by Richard Smith at The Chelsea Cobbler.
Clothes by Emmanuelle Khanh. Hat by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.
Dress by Bellville Sassoon.

Hair Now

1970s, Ara Gallant, avedon, hair, Hair and make-up, Halston, Inspirational Images, Make-up, Susan Forrestal, Vogue

Hair by Ara Gallant, featuring an innovative ‘long-short’ haircut, styled here in a centre-parted frame of soft waves and tendrils.

Model is Susan Forrestal. Make-up by Ultima 11.

Over-sized shirt by Halston. Earrings by Bulgari-Danaos.

Photographed by Avedon.

Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, 1973.

Go East! Collect Flowers of Japanese Couture

1970s, Hanae Mori, Hiroko, Inspirational Images, lord snowdon, snowdon, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

In Japan, land of the blossoming couture, Hanae Mori is a favourite daughter. Her clothes mix European classic design with oriental tradition, the Madame Butterfly fabrics are her on creation, she veils them layer on layer.

Her first boutique opened in 1947, the present score is twenty-five, and seventeen factories, hundreds of delightfully dressed ladies east and west —actresses, embassy wives, even crown princesses.

Since 1962 she has sold in New York. And now, in Harrods’ International Row, a unique few will arrive twice ayear to join Antonellis, Lanvins, Givenchys and others in their global collection.

Flowering in Hanae Mori silks here, tiny Hiroko, ex-Cardin favourite model, beautiful from the top of her black pageboy bob to the soles, of size two-and-a-half geta. Above: Crocus and chrysanthemum sunset chiffon over satin, mandarin coat and slit dress of matching print.

Below: Huge white and rose daisies on inky chiffon over a printed silk slip. Long scarf From £250 each,in a range at Harrods. Pearls by Mikimoto. Hiroko’ s Gala make-up: Orange Dazzle over Poppy Dazzle Super-smooth lipstick, Flame Darle nail polish

Photographed by Snowdon.

Scanned from Vogue, June 1972.

Daisy suede and other shorts

1970s, Beged'Or, Boston-151, chopper, Feathers, Inspirational Images, mr freedom, rowley and oram, Sue Baloo, terry de havilland, tuttabankem, Vogue, Zwarts
Rusty suede scalloped and sewn with ink painted daisies. Excellent small cap-shouldered jerkin of the same. By Tuttabankem at Boston-151. Suede by Gomshall Tanneries. Lurid lurex striped t-shirt by Mr Freedom. Feathered butterfly at Zwarts. / Maroon suede jeans shorts on bib and strap by Beged-Or at Debenham & Freebody. Neon panne velvet t-shirt, ice cream cone pin and tights at Mr Freedom. Zany felt patchwork hats at Feathers. Two-tone suede shoes at Rowley & Oram.

Blue skies, fresh air, freewheeling and summer suede shorts. This way.

Unusually for Vogue, this spread doesn’t credit a photographer. It also credits those amazing shoes to Rowley and Oram, who stocked Terry de Havilland’s shoes, so I suspect that they are by him as well.

Scanned from Vogue, April 15th 1971.