Photographers

Janet Reger: Beautiful Lingerie

1970s, brian duffy, janet reger, Vintage Adverts, Vogue

The Belle Epoque styling in this advert is superb, from the hair and accessories through to the gloriously curvaceous model. Janet Reger adverts were always in a league of their own, and I think this may possibly be one of the Brian Duffy ones.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1977.

Your bag is your lifeline

1970s, biba, Electric Fittings, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, Karl Stoecker, lilley and skinner, peter robinson
Jumper from Biba. Jacket from Electric Fittings. Trousers from Peter Robinson. Leather bag by Lilley and Skinner.

Photographed by Karl Stoecker.

Scanned from Honey, February 1972

Simply Natural

19 magazine, 1970s, Antiquarius, chelsea cobbler, Essenses, hand tinting, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, james wedge, Sacha, stirling cooper, Vintage Editorials, wigs

Long cardigans, long skirts, long scarves add up to a rustic setting in a relaxed mood. A casual look forward to restful autumn days.

Photographed by James Wedge.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, August 1973

Maroon hat with turn up front. Matching sweater in maroon and camel, with plain camel collar. Brown pencil skirt with pleats at the side. All by Stirling Cooper. Cream tights by Mary Quant. Beige and brown leather bootees from Chelsea Cobbler. Long knitted scarf by Herbert Johnson. Wig in all pictures from Wigwham.
Camel sweater with red and blue Fair Isle pattern. Brown wool tweed mixture cardigan with cream and maroon trim. Brown pencil skirt. All by Stirling Cooper. Knitted scarf from Herbert Johnson.
All clothes by Stirling Cooper. Brown bootees from Chelsea Cobbler. Gloves from Ambalu. Scarf by Herbert Johnson.
All clothes by Stirling Cooper. Boots by Chelsea Cobbler. Scarf by Herbert Johnson.
Clothes by Stirling Cooper. Shoes from Sacha. Scarf from Essences at Antiquarius. Cane from Emmerton and Lambert.
Clothes by Stirling Cooper. Suede sandals by Baby Shoes. Scarf from Essences at Antiquarius.

WHAT KIND OF GIRL ARE YOU?

19 magazine, 1960s, alistair cowin, annacat, biba, bus stop, celia birtwell, Daniel Hechter, Foale and Tuffin, fulham road clothes shop, guy and elizabeth, hung on you, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, Lawrence Corner, lee bender, liberty, liberty's, lilley and skinner, Maxwell Croft, ossie clark, Pierre D'Alby, quorum, ravel, Roger Nelson, Ronald Keith, sally levison, Stephanie Farrow, Susan Handbags, sylvia ayton, wallis, Weathergay, zandra rhodes
Cancer: Long Victorian styled dress with high neck in coffee cotton lace trimmed with white, by Annacat, 25gns.

Whether you believe in star signs or not, this lovely editorial is certainly fun to browse. Pretty happy with my Cancerian Annacat dress, modelled by Stephanie Farrow, but greatly envy the Aries and Scorpio threads.

(Also, please don’t shout at me about the furs. I don’t like them either but it would be weird to leave out Leo and Aquarius. Just pretend they’re fake…)

Photographed by Guy and Elizabeth

Scanned from 19 Magazine, January 1969.

Leo: Red fox knee length coat by Maxwell Croft, 259gns. Red wig from Beyond The Fringe.
Virgo: White jersey dress with brown snakeskin shoulders and belt by Sylvia Ayton and Zandra Rhodes, approx 8gns. Mottled chiffon scarf from Liberty. Brown leather boots by Lilley and Skinner, £6 19s. 6d.
Libra: Long brown crepe dresswith medieval claret-coloured velvet sleeves by Roger Nelson at 94, 9gns.
Scorpio: Metallic blue leather jacket with zip front by Ossie Clark for Quorum, 25gns. Chiffon scarf by Biba, 18s. Red jersey trousers by Wallis, £3 19s 11d. Leather boots by Lilley and Skinner.
Sagittarius: Fake horse jacket with leather elbows and trim, by Daniel Hechter for Weathergay 15gns. Herringbone trousers by Alistair Cowin at Grade One, £3 19s. 6d. Beige ribbed sweater 4½gns. Matching beret, 39s 11d. Both by Sally Levison Originals.
Capricorn: Beige rayon crepe trouser suit by Foale and Tuffin, 20½gns. Pink chiffon scarf by Biba, 18s 9d. Brown leather brogues by Ronald Keith, 6gns.
Aquarius: Maxi fur coat by Barbara Warner for Fab Furs, 150gns. Black hat by Biba, 25s. Worn underneath, black maxi jersey dress with snakeskin waistband by Sylvia Ayton and Zandra Rhodes, approx 8gns.
Pisces: Beautifully cut white raincoat by Foale and Tuffin, 16½gns. Boots to order by Ravel Studio, 19gns.
Aries: Brown suede fringed waistcoat, £7, with matching printed moccasins, £2. From Hung On You. Deep red satin blouse by Biba, £2 15s 6d. Brown cord trousers by Alistair Cowin at Grade One, 5gns. Narrow headscarf by Celia Birtwell for Quorum, 1gn.
Taurus: Blue rayon georgette, high-waisted dress with baby ribbon trim by John Bates for Jean Varon, 13gns.
Gemini: Green army surplus hat, 9s. 9d., and beige jacket, 11s. 9d., both from Lawrence Corner. Beige gabardine knickerbocker suit, by Pierre D’Alby, 14gns. Brown stockings from Mary Davies, 35s. Brown leather brogues by Ronald Keith, 6gns. Shetland Fair Isle beret, 25s. and scarf, 29s. 11d. by Lee Bender at Bus Stop. Leather shoulder bag by Susan Handbags, 7gns.

They’re a knock-out

1970s, Abecita, bill klein, City Lights, Inspirational Images, janet reger, lingerie, petticoat magazine, platforms, Tommy Roberts, underwear, Vintage Editorials

How does a really cool lady knock spots off the opposition? Sneakily. She discards her vibrant purples and blacks, climbs sweetly into pure white undies and, as innocently as a schoolgirl, demolishes all resistance.

While this editorial can’t quite work out how regressive or feminist it wants to be, I cannot fault the pom-pom platform shoes which are all by City Lights Studio (aka post-Mr Freedom Tommy Roberts and far too short-lived). I would definitely karate chop for those babies.

Photographed by Bill Klein.

Photographed at Pickett’s Lock Recreation Centre.

Scanned from Petticoat, December 1973

Left: Lacy bra and pants by Abecita. Right: Boxer pants and nylon and lycra bra from Marks & Spencer.
Left: Vest and knickers from Marks & Spencer Right: Cami-knickers and bra by Janet Reger.
Left: Boxer pants and vest by Marks & Spencer Right: Bra and pants by Abecita.

Ondine

1970s, Inspirational Images, lord snowdon, snowdon
An impression of the ballet Ondine Photographed by Snowdon at Nymans, the home of his mother, the Countess of Rosse in Sussex.

His eye for imagery and ability to create illusion is illustrated by his photograph of a ballet dancer in the role of Ondine for a calendar for ICI. ‘The girl was in the lake, surrounded by pale, pale blue and she was just coming out of the water.’ He photographed her in the lake at his mother’s house, Nymans, in Sussex, one freezing April morning. ‘I let off smoke bombs, but they didn’t work, so I lit some leaves to make blue smoke. I thought the poor girl would freeze to death, so I filled one of those thermos buckets with hot water, and put it just below water-level, and she was stood in the hot water – in gum boots; but you wouldn’t know it, because she was standing in the blue-lit haze.

Date unknown. Photographed by Snowdon.

Scanned from Model Girl by Charles Castle, 1977.

Living up to a reputation

1970s, Alice Ormsby-Gore, amanda lear, Asha Puthli, bill gibb, british boutique movement, christopher mcdonnell, frederick fox, ika hindley, Inspirational Images, jean muir, jean varon, joanna lumley, john bates, mary quant, pat cleveland, Sally McLaughlan, telegraph magazine, Terence Donovan, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, zandra rhodes

For some years now the London fashion designers have had the edge on their Paris rivals for ideas and innovations. Tomorrow evening a film on this subject will be shown on BBC1. Today we photograph the key London designers with their favourite clothes. What do they think of the London fashion scene? Where do we go from here?

Photographed by Terence Donovan. Fashion by Cherry Twiss.

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, May 25th 1973.

Zandra Rhodes originally trained as a textile designer; she began designing clothes in 1968. She does not have her own retail shop; her fabulous creations are made to order and sell through the big stores. “I think fashion in London is like a sea with lots of little islands, lots of different looks. I am my own couture island,” she says. “I don’t like committing myself to any one collection. I like adding to it as my ideas come along.” Pat Cleveland, top American model, is wearing Zandra’s “off-the-shoulder lily dress” .of printed grey and cream chiffon with satin-backed bodice and embroidery. From Piero de Monzi, 70 Fulham Road, SW3.
Mary Quant, photographed with her husband Alexander Plunkett-Green, became famous in 1955 when she opened the first “Bazaar” shop in the King’s Road, Chelsea. Now her business includes linen, make-up, tights and dolls as well as clothes, all bearing the unmistakable Quant touch. Of current London fashion she says: “I think the mood is classic, and I love it.” Amanda, a model who typifies Mary’s look, wears trousers, striped pullover and co-ordinating jacket, all in an angora and polyester mixture, and a pure silk shirt. Mary chose this outfit because “it is the epitome of my new collection -the best of everything. Modern classics in the right colours, subtle soft fabrics, elegance, chic – the sort of outfit you want to live in.” From Mary Quant’s new autumn collection, available in September.
Designer Jean Muir with Harry Lockart, her husband and business manager. She started the firm which bears her name in 1966; her distinctive clothes are available at all the major stores. Says Harry Lockart: “The London fashion scene has tremendous potential and on the design side is moving marvellously. It must need organising very professionally along Paris lines, with proper collection weeks, at times that do not clash, so that buyers can see everything.” Joanna Lumley is wearing an olive green two-tiered silk jersey dress described by Jean as “one of my favourites”. About £75 from Lucienne Phillips, 69 Knightsbridge, SW3, or Brown’s, South Molton Street, W1 . Jade necklace by Jean Muir, £15. Shoes, £24, by Charles Jourdan, 47 Brompton Road, SW3. Tights, Elle.
Designer John Bates (left) with John Siggins, Director who handles Publicity, Press and External Contracts. John Bates started the firm of Jean Varon in 1959; he thinks that “fashion in London is no different from anywhere else; but it is only just recently that it has been taken seriously”. Kellie, who is one of John Bates’s favourite models, is wearing a Tricel surah dress in a print by Sally McLaughlan exclusive to John Bates. About £55 from Dickins & Jones, Regent Street, W1 ; Barkers, Kensing-ton High Street, W8; Bentalls of Kingston; Kendal Milne of Manchester. Hat made to order by Frederick Fox, 26 Brook Street, W1.
Christopher McDonnell started his career early in 1967 and now sells his designs at his famous shop in South Molton Street. He thinks London is the most exciting place for evening wear, “but until the factories learn how to cope technically with good ideas for day clothes, the rest of Europe will remain ahead of us in this field.” The model is Ika, who, says Christopher, can interpret any look. She is wearing a cream silk suit with short skirt, £33 from Christopher McDonnell, 45 South Molton Street, W1 . White silk turban £9.50 from George Malyard, 3 King Street, WI. Bangles and choker from Emeline, 45 Beauchamp Place, SW3.
Designer Bill Gibb started out on his own in 1969 and was voted “Designer of the Year” in 1970. He now has a wholesale firm, and in fashion feels that “everybody makes a different sort of contribution”. Asha Puthli, singer and actress is wearing a peach double satin jacket and halter top embroidered and edged with black leather, and Lurex pleated skirt. About £200 from Chic of Hampstead, Heath Street, NW3, or Chases, Bond Street, Wl. Shoes £14.95 by Chelsea Cobbler, 33 Sackville Street, W1 . Tights by Echo. Alice Ormsby-Gore is wearing a plain and printed grey Lurex skirt and sequin embroidered top, £128. Turban by Diane Logan to order. All from Lucienne Phillips, or ZigZag, 100 New Bond Street, Wl. Shoes £14.95 from Chelsea Cobbler. Tights by Echo.

What pinafores did next

1970s, anello and davide, Angela at London Town, duc, Gina Fratini, Ginger Group, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, kensington market, kurt geiger, Marielle, mary quant, miss selfridge, Moya Bowler, Titfers, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
Cotton print pinafore over a sweet flowered dress. Deep ruffles on shoulders and a big beautiful bonnet to match. By Titfers at Miss Selfridge. Red button shoes at Anello & Davide.

Long dresses and skirts in crepe and cotton prints – related to others just as small, fresh, sharp or soft, on pinafore smocks and aprons. These are not so much to keep you clean, more to make you look prettier; and you can be dairy maids, kitchen maids, Kate Greenaway girls all through summer.

And so began the kickback against all things clean, crisp and space age…

Photographed by Duc.

Scanned from Vogue, April 1971.

Fine floppy fluted crepe de chine dress by Marielle. Liberty lawn pinafore by Angela at London Town. Brown boots by Moya Bowler for Edouard Jerrold at Kurt Geiger.
Dairy cream cotton smock dress. Leg o’mutton sleeves, buttons up the back, print of wild pale roses and primrose ribbons. Gauzy white pinafore, lace and rose pink ribbons. Both by Gina Fratini. Shoes at Anello & Davide. Lacy pink silk bonnet at Sharon’s Shoppe, Kensington Market.
Cotton and rayon wrap, two sizes of polka dot, white on cherry red patches. By Mary Quant Ginger Group. Cherry and red stripe cotton apron by In Pressler. Natural straw hat at Herbert Johnson.

On Second Thoughts

19 magazine, 1970s, barbara hulanicki, biba, Inspirational Images, Sarah Moon, Vintage Editorials

For those dreamy moments when you feel you want to look feminine and pretty, when you want to get out of your casual clothes and wear something floaty and special, Biba have made lovely, plain satin and two-tone patchwork satin skirts and tops which are alluring and very glamorous for the summer. They have also designed long, floating cotton voile dresses in large, dark prints which are flattering to figures still suffering from seasonal over-eating.

All clothes from Biba.

Many thanks to Barbara Hulanicki for letting me know that she took these stunning photos (modelled by Eva from Biba). They were uncredited in the magazine.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, July 1970.

Take a flower for your hair

1970s, barbara daly, barry lategan, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, Mouche (model), pablo and delia, Vogue

Take a flower for your hair, gather up a halter top, now dust on the glamour…

First flower, airy petals of summer pink net, outlined in white stitching, round white button for stamens. By Pablo and Delia, to order at Browns. Ruched halter top, flower printed seersucker, also by Pablo and Delia.

Make-up by Barbara Daly. Hair by John at Leonard. Model is Mouche.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, May 1972.