christian dior

That old black magic

1970s, alice pollock, alistair cowin, biba, Buckle Under, bus stop, celia birtwell, christian dior, christopher mcdonnell, corocraft, Dolcis, edward mann, Elgee, Elle, Fenwick, flair magazine, George Malyard, gillian richard, Herbert Johnson, Hiroshi, Inspirational Images, janice wainwright, jean muir, John Craig, kangol, Ken Lane, lee bender, leonard, lilley and skinner, Malyard, Marks and Spencer, marrian mcdonnell, mary quant, Miss Impact, ossie clark, quorum, Russell & Bromley, Sheraton, simon massey, stirling cooper, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent
The witching hour—smock shirt dress, white birds flying on yards and yards of transparent black georgette, Alice Pollock for Quorum, £36.75. In her hair, crescent moon £3, and a flash of lightning slide £5.25. Both from the House of Leonard.

Black, the old enchanter. Bewitching, mysterious, romantic. In velvet, satin and soft silk jersey. Dramatic alone or shouting with colour. That timeless black magic still weaves its ancient spell.

Hair by Leonard.

Photographed by Hiroshi.

Scanned from Flair, November 1971.

In best black style. Left : tailored single-breasted embossed velvet jacket, £16.75; matching skirt, £12.60; matching velvet hat £3.50. Brown tea rose, £1.05. All from Biba. Black thorn walking stick from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Right : Silver birds on black velvet blazer, £13.95, satin shirt with black cravat, £5.95; ankle length skirt, £4.95. All from Bus Stop. Sweeping ostrich feather hat by Edward Mann, £3.85.

Celia Birtwell printed Marocaine shirt by Ossie Clark for Quorum, £7.50. Red Poppies, 35p each, Fenwick.

Romantic panne velvet dress by Simon Massey, £16. White full-blown rose on black velvet ribbon, both from John Lewis. Black chenille snood, £1.95 Fenwick.

Graceful blouse with elasticated waist, over matching rayon flared skirt, £21.50 by Mary Quant. Silver diamante belt by Ken Lane, £21.50. Quant’s butterfly tights, Farfalla, 95p. Diamante paste clover leaf on black velvet ribbon, £7.90 by St Laurent Rive Gauche. Black ostrich feather, 55p Biba.

Printed shirtdress buttoned up with red hearts. By Gillian Richard, £9.50. Red heart necklace, £19 by Christian Dior. Sweeping black felt hat, by Buckle Under, £8.

For high coloured drama put black with traffic light colours : red, yellow green and strong electric blue.
Wool jersey vest by Sydica at Miss Impact, £4.90. Heart necklace from Elle, £3.75.

Cotton velveteen shirt £9.75, and culottes £7.75. By Alistair Cowin. Jersey wool shirt by John Craig, £4.80. Black leather belt, Fenwick £2.45. Suede boots banded in red, yellow and green, Lilley and Skinner £10.95. Velvet cap by Malyard £5, pinned with red star by Corocraft, 99p.

Warming up to black, in strictly daytime mood, our model wears Guerlains Teint Dore for a real tawny tint, 99p with Juvena’s Sahara Sun Blush Colour Stick as a highlighter, £1.63. Her. eyelids are coloured in Boots No 7 Transparent Eye Tint, 40p, and her lipstick is Chanel Corail, 95p.

Wrap around, tie belted wool jacket. £10.50. Over red Oxford Bags £6.50. Both by Alastair Cowin. Tartan wool man’s scarf, Scotch House £1.25. Black suede beret by Malyard, £16.

The little black dress revamped by Jean Muir in crepe de chine with puffed sleeves, demure bow and flared skirt, £21. Black suede strappy shoes, Russell & Bromley, £19.95. Sheer black tights, Mary Quant, 65p. Rhinestone star, St Laurent Rive Gauche £2.50.

Tie round black wool midi coat, topstitched in white, £22. Matching trousers, £6.25. Both by Elgee. Black and white Orlon tweedy knit tunic jumper, Marks and Spencer £2.95. Herbert Johnson knitted wool cap, £2.50.

Black wool tent coat by Stirling Cooper for Sheraton £16.95. Black wool Kangol beret, 65p. Black and plum suede lace up shoes, Dolcis £8.95. On collar, cupid heart brooch, St Laurent Rive Gauche £14.

Black wool jersey nautical blazer, £15.25, over grey and white knitted wool trouser suit, £28.25. Both by Christopher McDonnell for Marrian-McDonnell. Mock mother of pearl clips, Biba 35p each.

black velvet smoking jacket, £10.50; ankle high skirt in red, yellow and black wool tartan, £5.75. Both from Bus Stop. Cupid heart brooch, Rive Gauche £14. White shetland jumper, £5.50 Scotch House.

Serge Lutens

1970s, christian dior, Hair and make-up, harpers and queen, Make-up, Serge Lutens
Romanticism is the keynote of the new Dior look for autumn ’74, as created by Serge Lutens. All by Dior of course.

Photographed by Serge Lutens.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, September 1974.

Ireland Lends Poetry to Fashion

1970s, Anders Holmquist, baccarat, bill gibb, chelsea cobbler, cherry twiss, christian dior, Deliss, Diorling, Gina Fratini, Inspirational Images, Mexicana, Nettie Vogues, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, Vintage Editorials, Worth
A white cotton lace dress by Mexicana, seen in the tranquil green surroundings of Mount Kennedy in Co. Wicklow.

Many designers look increasingly to the past for their inspiration, and, to find suitable backgrounds for modern clothes. Fashion Editor Cherry Twiss took a selection to Ireland where, with the help of the Irish Georgian Society, she discovered magical, timeless settings for the newest fashions.

“Upgathering Feather-like frills, they step demure as nuns, Nor heed the menacing eyes on every side, Dead set unceasingly like levelled guns. Truly I think each woman is a bird.” Seamus O’Sullivan, Birds.

As always, no shouting at the me for the furs please. Pretend they’re fake. Enjoy the pretty clothes and landscapes instead…

Plaits by Tovar Tresses at Miss Selfridge.

Hair by Roger at Vidal Sassoon.

Make-up by Estee Lauder.

Photographed by Anders Holmquist.

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, August 21st 1970.

Lofty ancestral staircase at Mount Ievers, Co. Clare makes a beautiful, subdued setting for Baccarat’s pleated skirt and printed suede tunic. The laced boots are by Deliss.
Recalling former glories at Dollardstown, a drifting Ascher silk giselle dress, all frills and flounces, designed by Gina Fratini and worn with a beaded choker. Taffeta boots from The Chelsea Cobbler.
Mount Ievers, reflected in its own pool, speaks for the brooding timelessness of old Ireland. The black velvet Diorling midi suit is worn with a winged, onyx clip. The black silk boots are made by Deliss.
Feather like frills in the tangled splendour of the grounds of Dollardstown, Co. Meath. Black pleated organza cape and dress by Nettie Vogues. Boots by Deliss.
At the gates of Mount Ievers, a swirling tweed cape, fringed in black wool, by the House of Worth. Leather boots by Deliss.

How You Dress is an Escape

1970s, anne schaufuss, baccarat, belinda bellville, bill gibb, charles jourdan, chelsea cobbler, Chloe, christian dior, clive arrowsmith, Hair and make-up, jean shrimpton, Jorn Langberg, karl lagerfeld, kurt geiger, leonard, Moya Bowler, Nettie Vogues, pablo and delia, Savita, The Purple Shop, thea porter, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, zandra rhodes
DEPTHS OF EVENING CHIFFON,
CAFTAN AND DIRNDL DRESS
MERGED WITH GOLD AND VELVET
Above: Tobacco chiffon caftan with smoked gold leaves, hooded, boot-buttoned, Arabic sleeves weighted with tassels. Gathered from the waist with a twisted gold rope belt. Choker, The Purple Shop, 15 Flood St, S.W.3. Soft gold boots with open lacing, 22 gns, Kurt Geiger. Right: Black organza with a bib and skirt of brilliant panne velvet, red, green and yellow printed in ribbon bands, with bangles and cuffs of the velvet. Rings, Andrew Grima. Beaded black velvet choker, The Purple Shop. Black satin ankleboots, with bright passementerie, by Moya Bowler for Edouard Jerrold. Dresses, both pages, to order at Bellville Sassoon.

How you dress is an escape and an adventure in itself… never more so than the evening.

Hair by Leonard

Models are Anne Schaufuss and Jean Shrimpton.

Photographed by Clive Arrowsmith.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1970.

SHEER BLACK OF NIGHT,
WISPS PUT TOGETHER WITH
JEWELS, VELVET AND GLEAMS
Black chiffon blouse and skirt tiled with cut velvet mosaic. Blouse of velvet harlequins, bibbed with jet beads set in little studs of gilt; the skirt, striped with studded circles and squares. £184, at Thea Porter. Feather fan, to hire at The Purple Shop. Satin shoes, dyed to order, £18, dyeing, 21s, Charles Jourdan.
Black chiffon dress with a glittering apron tied around the skirt — turquoise and rusty velvet shapes shot with silver, with a striped hem, and cuffs to match. By Chloe, to order from Fortnum & Mason. Mirror necklace, £70, and gold sash clasped with turquoises, 140, both from Thea Porter. Rings, David Morris. Black velvet laced boots, 19 gns, from Kurt Geiger
KNICKERBOCKER BALLET ALL SURFACES RIPPLED WITH COLOUR AND SHINE
Grass green silk satin glossed with an intricate paisley of red, ink, black, tremendous sleeves and tunic gathered from a yoke over ballooning knee pantaloons. 85 gns; choker 25 gns, and belt, 58 gns, all at Savita. Green moire boots, 18 gns, at The Chelsea Cobbler.
Water markings, waves of colour pooled in a chiffon blouse honeycombed at the shoulders, antique tunic and panne velvet knickers. The tunic has a fitted bodice, full sweeping skirt. Blouse, £59, tunic, £75, knickers £24, heavy silver belt, £100, all Thea Porter. Burgundy velvet boots laced to knee, 19 gns, Kurt Geiger. Rings, Blooms. Chokers, The Purple Shop, 15 Flood St, S.W.3. Make up by Lancome, with Climat scent.
A NEW SLEEVE
CUT ACROSS NARROW FALLS
OF GOLD LACE
AND CLOUDY CHIFFON
Spun gold laced with mauve, the bodice cut wide into the sleeves. sashed with deep purple velvet above a basque and a gathered skirt. By Jorn Langberg from Christian Dior London. Amethyst string and brooch, at Blooms: rings. Hooper Bolton. Satin shoes dyed mauve. £18. 21s for dyeing at Charles Jourdan. Amethyst tights. Mary Quant. Make-up by Dior. with new Dioressence scent.
The bodice sleeve in chiffon, clouds of mauve blowing across. The top crossed low over the bosom and simply gathered at wrists. slight gathers in the skirt catchir the air. By Nettie Vogues, at Harrods: Hilda Hanson. Nottingham. Velvet choker. The Purple Shop at Antiquarius. Amethyst and diamond rings. Blooms; emerald and diamond ring. David Morris. Make-up by Orlane, with Jean d’Albret Casaque scent.
GLORIOUS NIGHT SHAPES.
TAPESTRY BELLS
AND SATIN PAGODA
Misty blue tapestry and gold leaves. left. edged with wide ribbons of sprigged tapestry. A gold thread laces the deep neck of a small jacket belling from the Yoke, with short arabesque sleeves. Fade-print chemise underneath, with full sleeves and crossed braid ; a slim bell for a skirt. By Bill Gibb for Baccarat, at Fortnum & Mason. Pearly black velvet choker, The Purple Shop at Antiquarius. Tangerine braid decorations, from Savita. Rings, Andrew Grima. Honey-gold and gilt velvet slippers, 20 gns, to order, The Chelsea Cobbler. Make-up by Eve of Roma, with the new Eve scent.
Sunset burst of satin, right, a pagoda of quilted tiers, wide sleeves set up to a bib bodice. Feather-print of celestial blue and of black for sun-rays. By Zandra Rhodes, at Fortnum & Mason. Diamond and blue enamel rings, at Blooms. Neck lace stringing pale beads and colourless feathers, by Pablo & Delia. Make-up by Mary Quant with P.M. scent.

The Prints of Darkness

1970s, barbara daly, charles jourdan, Chloe, christian dior, francois lamy, Franka, Garrard, harpers and queen, Inspirational Images, missoni, N. Bloom, Yuki
Orange and yellow printed Liberty silk harem suit with loose divided skirt cuffed in orange silk at ankles by Yuki. Jade disc and 24ct gold necklace and bracelet by N. Bloom.

Hair by Alex at Ginger Group.

Make-up by Barbara Daly.

Photographed by Francois Lamy.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, May 1975.

Long skirt and shawl in orange, purple and mauve printed jersey. Mauve vest and mauve and beige belt. All by Missoni from Browns.
Lilac, pink and mauve crepe de Chine evening dress in tiny flower sprig print with purple edged poncho by Christian Dior-London. Coral, gold and green mother of pearl bead necklace from Jones. Diamond and gold bangle from Garrard.
Lilac crepe de Chine evening robe, printed with orchids in darker lilac and pale print by Chloé at Browns. Opaque glass and amethyst necklaces from N. Bloom. Pale lilac kid shoes with wedge heels by Charles Jourdan.
Orange and pink hand-printed chiffon dress with ruff collar, made to measure by Franka. Long coral beads by N. Bloom. Coral kid strappy sandals by Charles Jourdan.

Hot Stuff

1970s, andrea pfister, christian dior, Inspirational Images, platforms, tessa traeger, Vogue, yves saint laurent
Extras of every kind that make the look, the day, the night Saint Laurent’s black ribbed roll-neck cashmere and lambswool sweater, £15. Satin shorts, £15.95. Beret with passementerie crown, £17.50. Suede clutch bag with brogued leather edge, £35.10. Suede rope belt thick with diamante, diamante disc, £30. Pins, one or many where you please. All at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. Dior’s red plastic heart necklace, £10. Andrea Pfister’s green satin t-straps on a wedge of red glitter plastic frames, hot stuff.

Photographed by Tessa Traeger.

Scanned from Vogue, September 15th 1971.

The Folk Art Craze

1970s, christian dior, Dress Den, Frank Horvat, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Jorn Langberg, kensington market, vanity fair

The Folk Art Craze - Frank Horvat - Jan 71 b

Every designer is saying it loudly, clearly, boldly, prettily… the hand-made look is here. Maybe it started as a reaction against the badly-made, thrown-together, hotch-potched dolly era; maybe this reaction set the tide running for antique markets where painstaking workmanship could be picked up still; maybe it’s that elusive feeling in the air that a designer’s sensitive seismograph picks up and translates in his own distinctive handwriting. Whatever it is – it’s here.

Jorn Langberg of Christian Dior – London plots it out in warm brown velvet, got together with a brief, embroidered waistcoat and a deeply embroidered peasant skirt… at the other end of the scale the Dress Den at Kensington Antique Market tops a thick aubergine cotton skirt spilled with bright wool flowers with a scrap of bolero, pictorially embroidered over every centimetre of the scalloped front. If you’re skilled with a needle, have a good eye for colour and shape there’s no reason why you can’t put yourself ahead of the game. But this is a painstaking look, a one-off original look that can’t be tossed off in an evening by a hopeful but bodgy amateur needlewoman.

Both shirts by Jeff Banks; all accessories from Kensington Antique Market.

Fashion by Lorna Cattell.

Photographed by Frank Horvat.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vanity Fair, January 1971.

The Folk Art Craze - Frank Horvat - Jan 71 a

Beautiful Things

1970s, charles jourdan, christian dior, harpers and queen, Harrods, janet reger, lingerie, mary quant, Paul Harris, underwear, Vintage Editorials

beautifulthings 1

Shorts in cream patterned satin with lace, by Funn.

At last, at last, British designers have realised that underwear is worn to be seen – and this season sees the prettiest, sexiest lingerie for some time. Nonsense undies are still with us – those barely-there bras, more supported than supportive, but shapelier ladies can now choose from a wide selection of really beautiful things.

Photographed by Paul Harris.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Harpers and Queen, November 1975.

beautifulthings 2

Bra and matching briefs in white lace from Harrods. Suspender belt by Courtenay.

beautifulthings 5

Lithe leotard and tights, both from Fenwick. Socks by Mary Quant. Hairnet from Medina.

beautifulthings 6

Film star petticoat and knickers by Janet Reger. Stockings by Funn. Flat dancing pumps by Charles Jourdan.

beautifulthings 4

Pale pink bra and French knickers by Dior at Fenwick. Stockings by Mary Quant. Powder puff from Harrods. Chair by Plia at Habitat.

beautifulthings 7

Slinky all-in-one set in lavender Lycra by Robin Alexis.

beautifulthings 3

Champagne petticoat by Mrs Hilton for Finewear.

Clothes to raise his temperature

1970s, Adrian Mann, Andre Ledoux, Bernshaw, celia birtwell, christian dior, cosmopolitan, Electric Fittings, jeff banks, ossie clark, Russell & Bromley, Suliman, Uncategorized, yves saint laurent

Clothes to raise his temperature 7

Playsuit and skirt by Ossie Clark for Radley. Shoes from Russell and Bromley.

An incredible editorial, photographed in and around Nice. I dream of returning to Nice with a wardrobe full of these frocks…

Photographed by Bill King.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Cosmopolitan, November 1973.

Clothes to raise his temperature 1

Cire raincoat by Andre Ledoux. Peeptoe shoes by Saint Laurent. Sunglasses by Dior.

Clothes to raise his temperature 2

Forties dress by Jeff Banks. Perspex shoes from Russell and Bromley.

Clothes to raise his temperature 3

Dress by Bernshaw. Fur coat by John Bates for Austin Garritt. Shoes from Russell and Bromley.

Clothes to raise his temperature 4

Lurex dress by Mary Quant. Shoes by Saint Laurent.

Clothes to raise his temperature 5

Tie back jumpsuit by Electric Fittings.

Clothes to raise his temperature 6

Silk dress and jacket from The Suliman Shop.

Essential Summer

1970s, andrea pfister, barry lategan, Bernard Neville, christian dior, Hope and Eleanor, Inspirational Images, liberty, liberty's, Pedro Garcia, ungaro, Vintage Editorials, Vogue

essential summer 2

Two silk prints in primary colours on beige. £69 at Liberty. Flower strewn hat by Christian Dior Chapeaux. Beige shoes by Andrea Pfister at Bata International. Necklaces and rings from Hope & Eleanor.

The new Liberty silks by Bernard Nevill are quintessential summer—sprigged or swagged with flower from the cornfield, the garden the riverbank, in primary colours on tinted grounds. For a hot sun day, a slate blue trellised blazer over a dress with sprigged pleats, for a sunshine evening, a dress of all sorts of flowers and paisley gathered into long skirt and round puff sleeves. The first look to make, the second to buy.

Prints from Liberty’s Chameleon range designed by Bernard Nevill.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, July 1971.

essential summer 1

Quilted jacket and wildflower pleats, left: Slate and black blazer, Vogue Paris Original Pattern 2499, designed by Ungaro. Blue flowered beige dress with long sleeves, long torso. Vogue Pattern 2469. Panama hat, by Diorling, from Debenham & Freebody. Suede shoes by Pedro Garcia.