Colouring Up

1970s, Adrian Mann, Browns, cacharel, charles jourdan, Correna, Crochetta, Derber, Dianyk, Escalade, Evelyn Desbrueres, Guy Taplin, Inspirational Images, James Drew, Janet Ibbotson, Janice Peskett, Knits and Leathers, manolo blahnik, Marc Leonard, mary quant, Nigel Lofthouse, Pedro Garcia, platforms, terry de havilland, vanity fair, Vintage Editorials, zapata

Leather platform-soled shoe (left), £17.50; sandal, £17, both from Charles Jourdan, 47 Brompton Road, SW1; tights by Quant, 40p at Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1.

Take a dekko at the accessories screaming their brilliant way across these pages. Nothing quiet, tasteful or ladylike, about them. Hard shocking pinks grating with parrot green, brilliant turquoise, electric blue, and Elvis Presley metallics. Shooting adrenalin into your get-up, so that you go. Hardly the gear to wear if you want to be a lady spy and overlooked.

Photographed by Marc Leonard.

Scanned from Vanity Fair, January 1972.

Bit of a rescan from about ten years ago, when I only seemed to scan the Terry de Havilland boots and the Derber shoes. Anyway, the whole spread is a delight and deserves to be seen. Also, for the millionth time, no I’m not making up magazines. Vanity Fair was a UK publication of the Sixties and Seventies which got absorbed into Honey magazine in the early Seventies. It has nothing to do with the earlier or later American/International magazine of the same name. Presumably as a defunct magazine name in a different country there were no copyright issues. It was also a work of absolute creative bloody genius in this early Seventies period (see the category tag for other scans, including an editorial by Saul Leiter).

_{n.b. I have omitted the image alluded to further down in the black and white section but haven’t edited the word so you can see why I have omitted it. My apologies for any offence caused.}

Boots by Terry de Havilland, £17.50 and £22.50 at Derber, 79 Wardour Street, W1. Tights by Quant, 40p at Peter Robinson Oxford Circus, W1.

Two shoes by Dianyk, both £8.50 at Derber, 79 Wardour Street.

Belt made from hand woven tweeds, by Nigel Lofthouse, about £7.25 from Escalade, Brompton Road, SW3 .

Striped flat shoe by Pedro Garcia, about £6.95 at Derber’s, 79 Wardour Street, W1; sock by Cacharel, £1.70 at Galeries Lafayette, Regent Street, W1. Watch by Gay Designs, £6.95 at Escalade. Knitted glove, £2 Browns, 27 South Molton St, W1

Knitted hat; and shoebag, by Janice Peskett, both £6 at Countdown, 137 Kings Road, SW3. Plastic rings, £1 each at the Adrien Mann boutique, Dickins & Jones, Regent Street, W1.

‘Fifties sunglasses by Correna, £1.25 at D H Evans, Oxford Street, W1 ; pearls from 75p at the Adrien Mann boutique, Dickins & Jones, Regent St, W1; plastic brooch, 50p at Universal Witness, 167 Fulham Road, SW3; plastic bangles, 45p each at the Adrien Mann boutique, Dickins & Jones.

Hand-woven multi-coloured tweed and leather clutch bag by Nigel Lofthouse, £25 at Escalade, Brompton Road, SW3. Striped peep-toe shoe by Mary Quant £5.50 at R.P Ellen, Oxford Street.

Blue tartan shoe on metallic blue platform, £16.50, tweed shoe, £17.75, both by Manolo Blahnik for Zapata, 49 Old Church Street, SW3.

Yellow suede belt with paste umbrella buckle by Guy Taplin, £2.80 at Bourne and Hollingsworth. Striped gloves, £1.45 from Miss Selfridge, Duke Street.

Black knitted pedal-pushers, £5, by Crochetta at Knits and Leathers; black plastic shoes £5.99 at Derber; silver and perspex clutch bag by Nigel Lofthouse, £10 from Escalade.

Wide black buckled belt, £10 from Janet Ibbotson, 9 Pond Place SW3; red and black knitted tie by Evelyn Desbrueres for Gay Designs £7 at Escalade; glasses by Correna, £1.50 at Selfridges.

Purple velvet bow tie, £2.50 at James Drew, Burlington Arcade, SW1. Sunglasses by Correna, £1.50 at D H Evans.

Shoe-bag £1 at Knits and Leathers, 5 Harewood Place, W1; turquoise gloves by Kirgloves, 65p at John Lewis, Oxford Street; turquoise plastic bracelet, 77½p at Selfridge, Oxford Street.

Landscape with clothes

1970s, dorothee bis, Escalade, Inspirational Images, Jacques-Henri Lartigue, paris, sonia rykiel, vidal sassoon, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent

Two pretty girls on the steps of the Troccadero. The sweaters and flared, spotted skirts are by Dorothee Bis and are available to order in Britain from Escalade, 183-190 Brompton Road, London S.W.1

Jacques-Henri Lartigue, now aged 81, took his first photographs in 1902, the year that his father gave him a camera which he describes in his diary as “made of polished wood with a lens extension of green cloth with accordion folds”. He took these pictures of clothes’ from the Paris Ready-to-Wear collections last month when he revisited his old haunts — the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne and the Trocadero — where years ago he took his first evocative and tender pictures of the beautiful, fashion-able, eccentric and ridiculous women who caught his eye. Wrapped in his father’s splendid checked brown-and-beige overcoat he worked with surprising speed : totally sure, extremely agile once he flung himself to the ground to capture the angle he wanted. His wife Florette worked with him — pacing, standing in for the models and carrying his few items of gear which included one small leather box in which he once kept his first camera; it’s gone now, but his wife said he likes to carry the box “for good luck”. The results make the model girls look like part of the landscape instead of self-conscious cardboard figures.

Photographed by Jacques-Henri Lartigue.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, March 18th 1973.

Black crêpe dress, decorated with butterfly bows, by Dorothée Bis.

Beauty in the Bois : spring 1973. The model is wearing Yves St Laurent’s black crepe suit with harem pants and distinctive gold jewellery. These are available here from St Laurent, Rive Gauche, 113 New Bond Street, London W.1 : so are the sandals.

Strolling along the broad, tree-lined boulevards from the Etoile : the shirts, button-through woollen sweaters, long-pleated skirts, well-cut head-scarves and matching bracelets by Chloe are available from Fortnum & Mason, Piccadilly, London, W.1.

Two black crêpe dresses, decorated with butterfly bows, by Dorothée Bis.

Heavy wool sweater, with a new rolled sleeve, and shorts by Sonia Rykiel, whose clothes are sold here at Vidal Sassoon, 44 Sloane Street, London S.W.1

Smocked dresses in Liberty-printed fabrics with off-the-shoulder necklines and bodices of shirred elastic. From Yves Saint
Laurent’s Rive Gauche collection. The same styled dresses, in silk or cotton, are also available with floor-length skirts.

Lothars of St. Tropez

1970s, Escalade, Lothars of St. Tropez, mild sauce, Vintage Adverts, Vogue

Scanned from Vogue, February 1971.

Cover Up

1970s, Antiquarius, Buckle Under, caroline smith, Christopher Morris, Du-Du, Equinox, Escalade, Foale and Tuffin, forbidden fruit, harpers and queen, Illustrations, Le Bistingo Boutique

A holiday necessity—to entice your gigolo, or simply preserve decency on the terrace for lunchtime drinks — is a cover-up. We’ve looked around, found the nicest ones in town and had them sketched here by Caroline Smith. Some you tie Polynesian style (remember Blue Lagoon?) round you; others you lie on, or in; others are like the simplest dress slipped over your head to demurely cover you up (don’t shock the curé) for church-seeing.

1 Du-Du at 95 Parkway, NW1 are in for a sell-out this summer with their ‘Kangas’. Kangas, for the uninformed, are long pieces of cotton in a huge variety of colours and patterns. They come from Africa and act like a sarong ; they cost about £3 and pack to the site of a handkerchief. 2 Foale & Tuffin‘s new swimsuit will take you right back to Nanny and the sand-pit. White and orange spotted seersucker with a shirred bodice and bloomers ; £7.50, from Countdown, 137 Kings Rd, SW3; Lucienne Phillips, 09 Knightsbridge, SW1. Proving that the cottage industry is thriving, Christopher Morris and his wife Lera, with a friend, Hazel McKenzie, recently opened Habari at 39 Sussex Place, W2. Christopher designs all the clothes, while Lera and Hazel dye the fabric and screen-print it into luscious patterns. They also sell things like the small basket shown below. It’s in brown and cream string and really pretty; £4.25. The dress has a hessian bodice and a low back (or front —depending on how you wear it) with a short voile skirt: £18-50. Peeping out from under the dress on the extreme right of this page you can see their leather sandal, shaped like a trapezium ; £4. 4 Le Bistingo Boutique at 93 Kings Rd, SW3, have gone to town on the Piz Buin collection of swimwear. Its made of polyester fabric —see-through and also tan-through. The designs are rather Tahitian with bright colours and bold flower prints. There are sarong skirts to match the bikinis and make you more respectable. If these still aren’t enough, the bikinis do also come in a less revealing material. The bikini is £7.80, the skirt £10.90. Le Bistingo have also latched on to another idea … if you find that by some strange quirk of fate you need a different sized bikini top and bottom, ‘Huit’ ) now make them separately up to 38″ bust ; £5.50 the set at Le Bistino. 5 Equinox in Antiquarius (135 Kings Rd, SW3) is owned by David Scott and James Goldsack who have got together a fantastic conglomeration of stock from all over the world. It’s a haven for all Indian enthusiasts, as there’s a jolly collection of Navajo Indian carpets and jewellery. You can also buy Spanish crockery which is very, very ‘earthy’ looking, or if you prefer to sit on a prayer mat and sip your tea out of a little Chinese bowl, then Equinox can cater for both these needs as well. So as not to stray too far away from the point of this month’s Shopping B, they also do a very nice line in beach cover-ups ; this one is Mexican and hand-embroidered on cotton, £20. 6 Guaranteed to keep off sunstroke : pretty red straw hat with tanan ribbon ; by Buckle Under about f6.50; from Harrods, Knightsbridge and Darlings, Bath. 7 Essential beach bag to hoard biros and postcards — in canvas, comes in various colours (this one is green). £4.95, Escalade, 187 Brompton Rd, SW3. 8 If you like long skirts and dresses beautifully embroidered, and soft cheesecloth skirts with appliqués, then the place to go is Forbidden Fruit at 352 Kings Rd, SW3. We chose a long cheesecloth skirt with dark brown embroidery around the hem and a matching shirt with shirring round the waist and neckline. Very soft and feminine; sold together, £15.

Illustrated by Caroline Smith.

Scanned from Harpers and Queen, July 1972.

All Together Now

1970s, Alexon youngset, anello and davide, Correna, Dents, Dranella, edward mann, Elgee, Escalade, Get, gordon king, Honey Magazine, ika hindley, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Joseph, Martha Hill, mary quant, McCaul, miss selfridge, Mistermonte, Peter Castellano, Reldan, Richard Shops, Stephen Marks, stirling cooper, Sujon, Twomax, Vintage Editorials

LEFT TO RIGHT: Yellow jacket, Stirling Cooper £13.95. Shetland polo neck, Twomax, £3.70. Scarlet wool jacket, Alexon Youngset, £17. Polo neck £3.50, from Joseph, 33b King’s Road, SW3. Fluorescent pink jacket, Stephen Marks £26 (sold as a trouser suit). Shetland polo neck, Twomax £3.50. Acid green wool flannel jacket, Mary Quant £17.90. Cable-stitched sweater, McCauls £2.40. Sunglasses by Correna. All trousers by Sujon, £9.50. Hats by Edward Mann; gloves by Dents.

Jackets are the brightest you’ve ever seen, with enormous checks and swirling swingy backs. They go with vivid sweaters and the widest possible Oxford bags, worn shorter than usual to reveal gleaming white lace-ups and tappy 46 two-tone shoes. What a way to get yourself noticed!

Second model from the left in the top image looks to be Ika Hindley.

Photographed by Peter Castellano.

Scanned from Honey, October 1972.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Bold checked wrapover jacket, Stirling Cooper, £20.95. Sunglasses from a selection by Correna; scarlet knitted gloves, Morley 80p. Lime green. royal blue and white big checked jacket, Stirling Cooper £20.95. Olive green gloves, Dents 70p; sunglasses by Correna. Sugar-pie pink, blue and white bobbly jacket, Gordon King £10. Royal blue woolly gloves, Dents 55p; Lolita glasses from Paris. Wrapover pure wool chequered jacket, Stirling Cooper £19.95. Sunglasses by Correna; gloves, Dents 80p. All skirts £3.50 from Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, Wl, mail order 25p extra. Hats £2.40 by Edward Mann; sweaters £3 by John Craig; tights 39p, Mary Quant; shoes Annello & Davide.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Brilliant green, orange, yellow and cherry-red swing jacket, Stirling Cooper £19.95. Polo neck, McCauls £2.40. King-fisher blue, white and royal blue jacket Jeff Banks £12. Button-up jacket in orange, mulberry and yellow wool. Reldan £17.75. Yellow-yoked jacket in cherry red, yellow and royal blue, Get, £20. All gloves from Dents; sunglasses by Correna; hats £2.40 by Edward Mann.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Sunshine yellow waisted flannel jacket with batwing sleeves, Stephen Marks £20. Red and white pinstripe trousers, made in woollen mixture, Mistermonte at Dolly Day £5.25. Brilliant red, yellow and pink checked woollen jacket, Dranella £13. Plain red gabardine Oxford bags, Sujon £9.50. Pillar-box red wool velour jacket with tie belt, Peter Martin £9 from all brancles of Richard Shops. Navy and while pinstriped trousers, Mistermonte at Dolly Day £5.25. Fluorescent pink, yellow and purple plaid acrylic jacket, Elgee £30. Scarlet gabardine Oxford bags, Sujon £9.50. Red woolly gloves, Morley, 80p. All hats Edward Mann, £2.40; gloves (except Morley) Dents 70p; glasses Escalade £2.95; umbrellas with imitation ivory handles Miss Selfridge £2.45.

Flannel as a Platform for Colour

1970s, Adrian Mann, Alan Rodin, bally, Buckle Under, bus stop, christopher mcdonnell, edward mann, Elliott, emcar, Escalade, flair magazine, Frank Murphy, georgina linhart, harold ingram, harriet, John Craig, Joseph, Juliet Dunn, kangol, lee bender, Mark Russell, mary quant, Muira, Mulberry, Pringle, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, Vintage Editorials

Jersey wrap around jacket, Georgina Linhart £15.50. Shirt, Richard Green £5.50. Sleeveless sweater, Harold Ingram £2.20. Prince of Wales skirt, Emcar £22.50. Shoes, Elliott £15.95. Velour hat, Buckle Under £8.50. Clutch bag, £1.60 by Escalade. / Wool tweed jacket £20.50; wool tweed skirt £10.25, both by Christopher McDonnell. Shirt, John Craig £4.50. Wool cardigan, Harold Ingram £3.25. Hat £5.95; cotton scarf 45p, both by Herbert Johnson. Shoes, Russell & Bromley £14.95. Clutch bag, Escalade £10.75.

Bright girls use their grey matter and use flannel as a platform for colour

Photographed at St. Pancras Station, London. Hair by Gerald at Evansky.

Photographed by Frank Murphy.

Scanned from Flair, September 1972.

Wool flannel double breasted jacket and matching bags, John Marks £14.95. Acrilan jersey shirt, 14.49 ; striped V neck sleeveless wool sweater, £3.50, both by John Craig. Angora pull on, Kangol £1.10. Leather knee boots, Sacha £9.99. Canvas striped shoulder bag, Mulberry £3.50. Flower printed wool cardigan jacket with tie belt and matching pleated skirt, Alan Rodin £19. Striped silky shirt, Joseph £7.50. Striped cloche, Marida £2.80. String of pearls, Adrien Mann £1. Patent shoes, Russell & Bromley £17. Leather clutch bag, Mulberry £7. Tights, Mary Quant 75p. Bangles, Paul Stephens 10p each. Telephone wire bangle, Escalade 40p.

Right: Flannel tie belted jacket, £13.50; checked trousers, £5.50, both by Alan Rodin. Spotted silky shirt, Joseph £7.50. Velour cloche, Buckle Under £8.50. Leather knee boots, Sacha £9.99. Pearl choker, Adrien Mann £1. Leather clutch bag, Cingula £9.50. Wool flannel stitched shirt styled jacket with matching pants, Muira £12.50. Long Giselle scarf, Ascher £4.25. Leather knee boots, Sacha £9.99. Leather shoulder bag, Terry Davis £11. Shopping information page 82.

Striped flannel cardigan jacket with matching pleated skirt, Mary Quant £12. Striped silky shirt, Joseph £7.50. Scoop neck long sleeved lambswool jumper, Pringle £9. Tights, Mary Quant 75p. Thin leather belt, Mulberry £2.20. Patent leather shoes, Russell & Bromley £17. Printed pull on hat, Edward Mann £3.20. Telephone wire choker, Escalade £1. Leather clutch bag, Mulberry £7. Bangles, Paul Stephens 10p each. Flannel cape-sleeved wool dress with checked insets, Harriet £9.45. Peachbloom breton style hat, Buckle Under £11. Tights, Mary Quant 75p. Leather clutch bag with perspex buckle, Cingula £9.50. Printed Acri-lan jersey shirt, £4.91; button-through long sleeved matching cardigan, £4.49, both by John Craig. Two-tone patent shoes, Russell & Bromley £19. Long string of pearls, Adrien Mann £2.70

Striped flannel belted jacket, £5.95; matching pants £5.95, both by Bus Stop. Dicel satin waistcoat, £6; matching pink silk spotted shirt, £7.50; white Dicel satin tie, £2, all by Juliet Dunn. Patent and suede lace-up shoes, Bally £7.95. Leather clutch bag, Mulberry £7.Wraparound wool coat with tie belt, Mark Russell £28.50. Tights, Mary Quant 75p. Pearl choker, Adrien Mann £1. Patent leather shoes, Russell & Bromley £17. Long Giselle scarf, Ascher £4.25. Horn bangles, Escalade £2.50 each. Luggage from a selection at Liberty.

What’s new Alleycat?

1970s, Alleycat, betsey johnson, Escalade, Inspirational Images, Sandy Lieberson, Vogue

whats-new-alleycat-1

It was this close-cropped straw-white head munching a hamburger that stopped Paul Young, Mr Escalade, in his tracks. Within minutes, Suze was the first London fan of Betsey Johnson, young American designer for Alleycat & Co, and pretty hot news herself. Betsey’s clothes were fresh out of the packing cases, en route to her own special department in Escalade, packed with sensational shapes like these … moving proof that Betsey Johnson knows all about shape. Welcome to London, Betsey.

All clothes by Betsey Johnson for Alleycat & Co.

Photographed by Lieberson.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, December 1971.

whats-new-alleycat-2 whats-new-alleycat-3

Mild Sauce: Emmanuelle Khanh at Escalade

1970s, Emmanuelle Khanh, Escalade, Inspirational Images, mild sauce, underwear, Vintage Adverts

If you can find this Emmanuelle Khanh bra anywhere else in London, we’ll buy it for you.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, December 1970

Tighten your belts – Conspicuous waist

1950s, 1970s, biba, british boutique movement, dorothee bis, Escalade, Eva Sereny, Fiona Lewis, Inspirational Images, sunday times magazine

Sweater by Biba and belt by Fenwicks

One of my favourite fashion shoots of, ooh, forever, I have no idea why I have only just got round to scanning it in. This look appeals to me more and more every time I look at it. Part of what I love about the Seventies is the way they were influenced by the styles of earlier eras, and yet the result is always so perfectly Seventies and, inexplicably, preferable to the original. Speaking for myself, anyway…

Photographed by Eva Sereny. Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, October 1972

“At the Paris winter collections no-one seemed to have any scruples about cribbing from the Fifties. However, Dorothée Bis, one of the most influential ready-to-wear designers, did it better than anybody else because the clothes managed to look far sexier than they ever did at the time. Big baggy men’s department sweaters; jackets and coats, swagger-backed or lumberjack style, in cloth or fake fur; tight skirts hobbled over seamed lurex tights – in fact, everything that could be worn with a waspie belt like the one shown here, giving more shape tot he shapely and hope to the straight. On the cover and on these pages actress Fiona Lewis shows how she wears waist-clinchers.”

Sweater and belt from Biba

Sweater is model’s own, belt from Biba

Waspie from Escalade

Waspie and felt skirt by Biba

Inspirational Images: How to make it happen on holiday

1970s, alice pollock, brian duffy, bus stop, clobber, cosmopolitan, Crochetta, deborah and clare, Deirdre McSharry, Diane Logan, Escalade, Gordon Deighton, harold ingram, Inspirational Images, lord john, Lucienne Phillips, miss mouse, Suliman, Tom Gilbey, Vintage Editorials

Dress by Elle. Shirt by Deborah and Claire.

Always happy to bring you another ‘lost’ shoot by the late, great Brian Duffy. Since Duffy destroyed his own archive, we are left to piece together a career from what was published in magazines or retained in other people’s archives. I try to scan and share whenever I can… I covet both Alice Pollock pieces in this spread, and love the man’s style. Definitely how all men should dress, always.

Photographed by Duffy. Fashion by Deirdre McSharry. Modelled by Greta Norris and Cyril Hartman.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, July 1972.

As an aside, apologies for sporadic blogging at the moment. There are a few changes afoot and it is distracting me a little from my usual magazine scouring and scanning. I will tell you when everything, hopefully, falls into place in the next few weeks.