Inspirational Images

19 and Biba are Back in Brown!

19 magazine, 1970s, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, Vintage Editorials
Ankle-length brown linen coat and matching trousers, 10gns. Long narrow white silk scarf, 2gns. Brown leather shoes with a bar, £7 10s.

If you want to keep ahead in 1970 you will have something brown and white in your wardrobe. Biba and 19 put their heads together and chose -chocolate brown and stark white as the smartest colours for the spring. Teamed together they make a stunning combination—classic colours cut in that special Biba way to make a head-turning impact. For those in need of something a little bit special to wear at night, take a good look at Biba’s super long satin coat in liquid chocolate brown — designed to be worn over trousers, a dress or just by itself. It’s well worth the money if you go out often enough to warrant an evening coat. Biba goes long again for the spring with a feeling reminiscent of the early 1900s when ladies wore ankle-length skirts,. large picture hats with feathers, plumes and lots of net. We’re in favour of 1970 being a romantic year, and if you agree with us, then Biba’s the shop for you —124-126 Kensington High Street, London, W.8.

Wonderful not only to see Peccinotti’s beautiful photos of Barbara’s beautiful clothes, but a rare and special insight into the lesser-seen Biba number 3 in Kensington High Street (post-Church Street and pre-Derry and Toms). I’m not sure this will ever stop being one of my favourite aesthetics.

Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, March 1970.

Brown satin evening coat, 12gns. Brown leather bar shoes, £7 10s. Choker, 30s. Scarf from their selection. Veiling, 3s.11d. a yard.
Brown/white Flanestra button-through dress, 6gns. Matching hat, 30s. Brown leather bar shoes, £7 10s. All prices are approximate.
Floor-length white crêpe coat with full sleeves, and matching trousers, 9gns. the set. White crêpe scarf from their selection.
Brown crêpe long fitted jacket with matching buttons, and wide-cut trousers, £5 19s.6d. Matching helmet, 30s. Spectacles, 32s.6d.
White linen suit with an ankle-length skirt, £7 10s. Matching hat, 30s. Beige fishnet tights, 14s.11d. Veiling over face, 3s.11d. a yard.

Brighten Up

19 magazine, 1970s, anello and davide, Anne Cossins, Dolcis, Feathers, Fenwick, Inspirational Images, John Stember, just looking, mr freedom, Pourelle, Rosie Nice, sally levison, stirling cooper, Vintage Editorials
Red hat in soft felt, from Feathers, 40s. Short crossover woollen top with navy trim has short sleeves, by Anne Cossins for Mr. Freedom, 6gns. Plain black jersey midi skirt, by Stirling Cooper, 90s. Blue and red choker, from Fenwicks, 10s.

Beautiful and gay knits are 19’s answer for post-summer blues; dazzling bright and eye-catching in an array of primary colours. The styles are the simplest possible—tiny tops with cross-over fronts and, for those who prefer the classic, pullovers in cleverly co-ordinated stripes. This style of knitwear is best worn with toning jersey skirts, preferably in a midi length, and trousers. To complete the kaleidoscope look, add brightly coloured shoes, stockings, a scarf or a choker.

Photographed by John Stember.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, October 1970.

Black crochet hat, by Sally Levison Originals, 65s. Short crossover pullover in bright colours has short black sleeves trimmed with red, by Anne Cossins for Mr. Freedom, 6gns. Black jersey skirt fastened up the side with metal buttons, by Stirling Cooper, £6. Black crochet choker, from Fenwicks, 15s.
Multi-coloured striped woollen pullover has long sleeves, 75s. Bright red jersey skirt, 90s. Both by Stirling Cooper. Black tights, by Mary Quant, 15s. Red leather bar shoes, by Anello and Davide, 58s.6d. Black woollen long-line pullover has red, blue and yellow stripes round the waist and elbow, 70s. Yellow jersey skirt, 90s. Both by Stirling Cooper. Bright red tights, by Mary Quant, 15s. Lime green bar shoes, by Anello and Davide, 58s.6d.
Bright blue and yellow vest-style woollen pullover has long sleeves and fastens with tiny buttons at neck, 70s. Bright red pants, 89s.6d. Both by Stirling Cooper. Buttercup yellow pullover with red trim has square neckline and short sleeves, 60s. Bright red jersey pants, £4 19s.6d. Both by Stirling Cooper.
Black, red and yellow short-sleeved pullover has a polo neckline, 75s. Black jersey, button-through skirt, £6. Both by Stirling Cooper. Red and blue woollen pullover has long sleeves which are trimmed with buttons, 75s. Plain black jersey midi skirt, 90s. Both by Stirling Cooper. Long blue silk scarf printed over with flowers, from a selection at Rosie Nice in Kensington Market.
Striped woollen pullover, by Anne Cossins for Mr. Freedom, 6gns. Vivid green skirt jersey, by Stirling Cooper, 90s. Tights, by Mary Quant, 18s.11d. Shoes, by Anello and Davide, 58s.6d.
Fine knit polo-neck pullover with long sleeves worn with matching knit trousers in tones of beige, with red and yellow stripes, by Pourelle, 14gns
Woollen long-sleeved pullover has stripes in yellow, green, blue, red and purple, by Anne Cossins for Mr. Freedom, 6gns. Navy blue jersey knickerbockers, from Just Looking, 5gns.
Light and dark grey pull-on woollen knit hat. Light grey pullover has polo neck and long sleeves. Sleeve-less pullover worn on top is in two-tone grey and has a rounded neckline. Matching midi skirt. 28gns. the set. All by Pourelle. Black leather boots with hooks and laces, by Dolcis, £10 19s. Black crochet hat, by Sally Levison Originals, 65s. Purple and lilac finely knit woollen pullover has matching midi skirt, by Pourelle, £18. Black tights, by Elbeo, 12s.11d.
Striped hat. ochre-coloured finely ribbed pullover and matching midi skirt with diagonal stripes in plum, purple, orange and ochre, 17gns. the set. All by Pourelle. Black leather boots with hooks and laces, by Dolcis, £10 19s.

Shaping Up

1970s, antony price, che guevara, gala, Inspirational Images, Karl Stoecker, manolo blahnik, sunday times magazine, Valerie Wade, Vintage Editorials, zapata
Main image: Crepe-de-chine two-piece, £20. Shoes by Zapata, 49 Old Church St, London SW3

One thing that designer Antony Price really understands is pattern cutting : “I can think of a shape and create an optical illusion — people’s figures don’t change, clothes make figures.” Price, who designed all these clothes, wants women now to start looking artificially female, but “in a sumptuous way — this time it’s bosoms, hips and tiny waists”. He admits to being influenced by the Fifties and his ex-showgirl sister who lives in Miami and looks like his idol Jayne Mansfield. “The Fifties were less extreme, taste was incorporated into everything.” He wants shoes tall and dangerous like his own cowboy boots, but insists that his clothes (available direct or mail order from Che Guevara, 23 Kensington High St, W8) are comfortable. “What’s more comfortable than swimming costume tops?”

So, so good. Model, designer and photographer are the most perfect combination. It even has Manolo Blahnik shoes for good measure.

Model is Gala Mitchell.

Story by Valerie Wade.

Photographed by Karl Stoecker

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, February 13th 1972.

Shiny one-piece outfit, £18. Shoes, Zapata.
Flocked nylon cocktail dress, £20.
Cotton suit that owes its shape totally to the cut, £18.
Batman Cire dress/cape, £20. Six inch boots, £25.
Deep V-necked ruched nylon dress, £12.99. 5-inch silver shoes, £18.

Veiled lady, Garbo-style

1970s, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, barry lategan, biba, Inspirational Images, Make-up, pablo and delia, Vogue
A boa of black and white feathers, made especially for Vogue by Pablo & Delia, with make-up by Biba.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1970.

Kissin’ Cousins

1970s, alice springs, Anne Tyrrell, aquascutum, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, Borg, Butler & Wilson, C&A, Chi Chi, cosmopolitan, crowthers, Deirdre McSharry, Diane Logan, Elle, Henry Lehr, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, just men, marie france, medusa, miss mouse, ossie clark, quorum, Reldan, ritva, Sacha, Sujon, Vintage Editorials, Weathergay
Pink and wild coat is hooded and all set to trap the unwary male. Borg coat by Henry Lehr, £17.50, trousers by Sujon, £9.50. His coat by C & A in suedette, £13.95. Hat by Locke, £5.25.

. . . or how to wear furs this winter without hurting your pet’s feelings.

There is nothing, absolute nothing quite like wrapping yourself in fur. As a sensuous experience, it is in the same class as a new love, old champagne or fresh truffles. But even the most hedonistic of women are relieved that the threatened species are no longer imported. Snow leopards, tigers and other cats can go their own way and sensibly sybaritic female will look for furs that are farmed, such as fox and mink. This winter, too, the fakes are so wayout and wildly coloured that only a girl without a heart could resist their charms, albeit synthetic. Perhaps that’s why the fur trade have taken the hint and dipped their favourite fox pelts in the dye pot, Furrier Maxwell Croft offers his explanation of the female urge to wear and the male urge to bestow furs: “For many men it is a primitive desire to see his woman in furs.”. Very nice, too.

Plenty to scoff at the end of the copy there, but oh goodness the clothes – the clothes! And the glorious photography of Alice Springs, whose work doesn’t turn up nearly enough for my liking.

Fashion by Deirdre McSharry.

Photographed by Alice Springs.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, November 1972.

Kissin’ cousin to a polar bear, but lots slimmer, is this smashing white shaggy coat. Wear it with white flannel bags, an angora sweater and an even shaggier hat. Well-cut coat in Borg with stitched suede edges. By Marie France for Quorum, £36, Ossie Clark trousers £14, sweater £4. Hat by Diane Logan, £5, shoes from Sacha £7.99. Beads by Butler and Wilson. Mike’s coat from Just Men, £70. Trousers from Aquascutum, £14.50.
The shaggiest coat story of the season-outrageous powder pink number, worn over pink striped sweater and pleated skirt. The dog is also fake, Chi Chi’s own and christened Fifi by Mike. Borg coat by Biba, £15, sweater by Reldan £3.33, skirt by Crowthers £5.75. Beads by Loewe.
Chi Chi turns her back on the world in scooped dress by John Bates for Jean Varon, £22. White shaggy jacket in Lister’s synthetic, £13.75 by Weathergay. Photographed at Julie’s Restaurant, 135 Portland Rd, London W11 (01-22) 8331).
How to have that movie-star feeling. If you want the big star treatment – breakfast at Tiffany’s, diamonds as big as the Ritz – dress like a star in electric blue fox. Dress by Elle, £15. Fox coat by Dinni for Femina Furs, £295. Moonstone necklace at Butler and Wilson. His outfit by Aquascutum. Velvet jacket £38.50, shirt £10.50, cuff links from £3 50, trousers £12.50
Tea for two. Mike makes up to Chi Chi (that’s the model girl, not the coat) in her shaggy yellow number, worn with shiny striped shirt and mustard bags. Borg coat by Marie France for Quorum £23.50, shirt by Medusa £5.50, trousers by Sujon £9.50. Beads by Butler and Wilson. Photographed at The Royal Garden Hotel, London.
Enough to drive a man wild-a nutty fake fur, above right, with Fifties shoulders and swing back. Wear it nicely over mustard crêpe de chine shirt and peg-top trousers. Both by Sujon, shirt £13, trousers £9.50. Borg coat by Biba £25, beret, Diane Logan, £4.50, shoes, Sacha, £7.99. His coat, Aquascutum, £70, trousers C & A £3 95.
Enough to make Morgan the gorilla, jealous. (Remember A Suitable Case For Treatment?) Emerald green gorilla jacket in real-life Borg by Weathergay, £9.50 (right). Worn over slinky knit sweater and skirt from Ritva, £27 for the outfit. Blue shaggy beret by Diane Logan, £4.50. Mike’s sweater in blue and silver by Ritva, £18.50. Trousers from C & A £5.50.
Jealous cats show their ruffled furs. Chi Chi and Belinda act out the classic movie-star confrontation in their sequins and furs, Chi Chi in pleated taffeta with sequin bodice by Anne Tyrell for John Marks, £23.95; her boa is silver fox, ranch bred, price £70. Belinda’s fox is red, also from the ranch, price £45, both by Barbara Warner for Fab Furs. Strapless top and trousers by Miss Mouse, £20. Beads by Loewe.

Women Who Know

1970s, Hermès, Inspirational Images, interior design, interiors, Vintage Adverts, Vogue
Les femmes décidées vont jusqu’au bout… Jusqu’au Parfum.

Just a pretty flawless aesthetic which I felt needed to be noted.

Advert for Calèche by Hermès.

Scanned from Vogue, November 1971.

Knitwear’s Never Had it So Good

1970s, alice pollock, Annie Cossins, Crochetta, erica budd, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, John Craig, Kensington Super Store, knitwear, mary quant, Mike Magic, mr freedom, Syndica, Tony Moussoulides, Vintage Editorials
Emerald green pullover in pure wool, with multicoloured flying parrot, John and Molly Dove for Jasper, £8.40.

The knitwear industry has at long last pulled its needles out and has amazed us all with the most brilliant, zappy knits ever. One-colour sweaters have gone back where they came from—now you need at least three colours, and the brightest, most startling design you can find. Take your pick from oozing cream buns, bold geometric stripes and pyramids and all kinds of technicolour patterns—why leave parrots to the pet shops?

Photographed by Tony Moussoulides.

Scanned from Honey, August 1971.

Stripey rainbow knitted pure wool pullover, Annie Cossins, £5.95. Mr Freedom, Kensington Church Street, W8.
Mulberry and cinnamon Acrylic sweetheart sweater Janine at Harold Ingram, £2.25
Clockwise from top left: Brilliant block printed Acrylic mini sweater, Erica Budd, £3.90. / Hot orange wool boucle sweater with a cream cake motif, Crochetta, £8. / Scarlet heart patterned wool sweater, Annie Cossins, £5.95. Mike Magic, Kensington Super Store, W8 / Quartered Orlon jockey sweater, Erica Budd, £3.50. / Pyramid printed Acrylic sweater, John Craig, £4. / Zig-zag patterned Acrylic pullover, McCaul, £5. / Clingy bright blue wool boucle sweater with road sign motif, Crochetta, £8. / Lightning Superman printed Acrilan sweater, Syndica, £4.
Lazy daisy embroidered wool sweater in pink, navy and yellow. Mary Quant. £6.
Pure white wool sweater with scar:et and navy flower embroidered sleeves Alice Pollock, £7.
Pooh Bear mini Acrilan sweater in bottle green and canary yellow, Mary Quant, £3.

Lovely things in Leather

1970s, anello and davide, Barney Bosshart, Diego, Frances Stuart, Harpers Bazaar, Inspirational Images, pablo and delia

A new model — and her way of wearing knickerbockers : Frances Stuart, above, is a cousin of Sally Chrichton-Stuart, wife of the Aga Khan, though it is a bit mean to say so as she would rather her name were not connected with her family: she wants to make her own way as a model. She is 17, and although she has only been at it for 6 months has already been chosen as a model for Mary Quant’s latest collection — a perceptive choice if she looked as good as a Ginger Grouper as she does here in her currently favourite outfit: panne velvet skinny puff-sleeved jacket, low-necked to show off her choker, and knickerbockers teamed with shoes laced up above the ankle — a decorative alternative with chopped-off trousers to the ubiquitous boot. Red and mustard suede choker, centred with a bead, and the red and blue butterfly choker on her arm, are by Pablo and Delia. Suit, Diego, 12gns at Topaz, W1; Latters, Glasgow. Red shoes, £3 15s from Anello & Davide; Berkshire’s yellow tights. Hair Aaron at Sissors.

Lovely things in leather: Pablo and Delia, originally painters from Buenos Aires, only came to London from New York 6 months ago, but in that short space of time have made their name as the creators of fabulous scenic belts, chokers, wrist-bands, bags, and other leather accessories including berets — see the beautifully stitched and painted beret shown below, again worn, with another of their leather chokers, by Frances Stuart. Their leather works of art are at Browns, Thea Porter (for whom they make special items), Feathers, and The Shop in Sloane Street. In the future they are hoping to branch out and make other things, including dresses, staying on in London rather than returning to New York because they like it better: ‘it’s more human-sized’.

(Taken from Harpers Bazaar’s regular ‘Shopping Bazaar’ feature.)

Photographed by Barney Bosshart.

Scanned from Harpers Bazaar, September 1970.

Suddenly Suits

1970s, Bermona, biba, bus stop, clobber, crowthers, florrie carr, gladrags, Herbert Johnson, Honey Magazine, Hope and Eleanor, Inspirational Images, Jacqmar, lee bender, lilley and skinner, morgan rank, ravel, Saxone, Sheriloyd, simon massey, Simon Suede, stirling cooper, Vintage Editorials
Tailored diamond jacquard midi suit, Sheriloyd 10½gns. ; cream silk cravat, Jacqmar, 47s. 6d. ; sheer plum tights, Mary Quant 10s. ; triple bar patent shoes, Saxone, 89s. 11d. ; smart velour hat, Herbert Johnson, 95s. ; amber bow brooch, Hope and Eleanor, 45s.

After seasons and seasons of dresses and trousers, suits are back with us again. But the new generation of suits is quite different from any we’ve worn before; sexily elongated with midi skirts and slender waisted jackets, in jacquard jerseys and patterned wools. Suddenly suits are younger, smarter – the newest way to get yourself looking together.

Photographed by Morgan Rank.

Scanned from Honey, November 1970.

Dusty pink wool jersey midi suit with fluted lilac and pink striped jacket, Stirling Cooper, 10 gns. ; cream jacquard knit shirt, Clobber, 87s. 6d. : wavy plum and white leather belt, Simon Suede, 63s.: sheer plum tights, Berkshire, 7s. ; walnut patent silver buckle court shoes, Ravel. £5 19s. 11d.
Plum and navy flower-chain suit, Bus Stop, £8 10s. ; plum velour hat, Herbert Johnson, 95s. ; plain brown leather gloves, Dents, 57s. 6d. ; sheer black coffee tights, Wolford, 13s. ; walnut laced shoes, Ravel, £5 19s. 11d.
Zipped-up Dacron and wool jacquard jacket, 10 gns., with matching midi kilt, 6 gns., both by Gladrags : geometric crepe scarf Sarah Jane. 56s.
Teatime zig-zag jacquard jersey suit, Crowthers, £10 ; purple tights, Elle, 9s. : shiny purple shoes, Lilley & Skinner, 99s. 11d. : crushed velvet cloche. Bermona, 65s.: seed bead rope, Indiacraft, 11s.
Elegant long lean jersey midi suit, Florrie Carr, £10 3s. Ban-lon shirt with billowing sleeves, Simon Massey, £7 ; sheer purple tights, Elle, 9s. : patent laced-up granny shoes, Lilley & Skinner, 99s. 11d. : wide-brimmed felt hat, Biba. 42s. ; antique cameo brooch. Hope & Eleanor, £4 15s.

Nifty Fifties

19 magazine, 1970s, antony price, che guevara, Emmerton and Lambert, Gamages, Inspirational Images, Mick Milligan, mr freedom, Phyllis Collins, Roger Charity, stirling cooper, Titfers, universal witness, Vintage Editorials
Yellow crepe blouse by Antony Price at Che Guevara, £5. Sky blue floral patterned skirt with plain blue panels, from Universal Witness, £6. Black bead necklace from a selection at Emmerton and Lambert. Sunglasses are the model’s own.

Rock around the tops that look as though they’ve come straight from the era of the hand-jive and Radio Luxembourg. That’s because our bright young designers have revived such golden oldies as the off-the-shoulder sweater and the shirtwaister blouse. So just add dirndl skirts, popper bead bracelets, swing out in hoop earrings, and we’ll see you later, alligator…

I am sorry to say that I don’t know the name of the model in this spectacular editorial, but I’m pretty sure that she’s the same model as in the video for Stuck in the Middle With You by Stealer’s Wheel. She of the gratuitous eclair-eating – and the most incredible platform shoes I’ve ever seen. It’s safe to say that I was captivated by her look in that video when I was a teenager (with an unhealthy fixation on watching VH1 rather than MTV). So if anyone knows her name, do let me know!

Edited to add, thank you to those who identified her as Jenny Gaylor, I’m eternally grateful.

Photographed by Roger Charity.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, October 1971.

Off-the-shoulder red and white striped woollen sweater, £4.50. Red crepe pencil skirt fastens down the back with large white buttons, £6. Both by Phyllis Collins at Stirling Cooper. White vanity case by Antler, £7.25. Cotton scarves, from Gamages, 35p each.
Black and white striped voile shirt with batwing sleeves and pintucks at the waist, by Antony Price at Che Guevara, £5. Violet satin skirt, from Universal Witness, £7.50. Black and white spotted cotton hankie, from Herbert Johnson, 40p. Button brooch, designed for Zandra Rhodes by Mick Mulligan.
Emerald green and white striped woolen sweater with ties at shoulders, £4.50. Matching satin jersey pencil skirt with buttons down the back, £6. Both by Phyllis Collins at Stirling Cooper. Hoop earrings by Adrien Mann, £1.50. Necklace by Funny Bijou at Titfers, £1.50. Silver bow ring by Mick Milligan at Mr Freedom.