Red, white and you

19 magazine, 1970s, biba, bus stop, chelsea cobbler, Crochetta, harold ingram, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, John Craig, Karl Stoecker, Lizzie Carr, mr freedom, sheridan barnett, simon massey, stirling cooper, Sujon, Titfers, Vintage Editorials
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Red and white striped halter neck sweater by Crochetta. Black cotton pants by Sujon. Shoes by Chelsea Cobbler. Red leather belt from Bus Stop.

Relax in these beautiful cruise clothes. Wear your white baggy pants with red and white striped tops, cotton berets or little ‘Forties’ pull on hats. Wear white leather shoes with bows or ruched fronts and high heels. White pearls and bangles look just right this summer. This is the year of the female female, so start purring…

Photographed by Karl Stoecker

Scanned from 19 Magazine, April 1971.

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Red and white striped beret by Titfers. Halter neck wool sweater by Stirling Cooper. White cotton suit by Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey. White leather shoes from Biba. / White cotton beret by Titfers. Cotton windcheater by Lizzie Carr for Plain Clothes. White trousers by Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey. Striped socks by Mr Freedom. White leather shoes from Biba.

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White sailor hat by Titfers. Red and white striped halter neck and Oxford bags all in one by Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey. White leather shoes by Biba.

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White cotton hat by Herbert Johnson. White acrylic sweater by Harold Ingram. Blue palm tree with white lady and black tree print jacket by Stirling Cooper. White cotton bags by Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey. White leather sandals by Biba.

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White cotton beret by Titfers. Red cotton shirt, red and white cotton blazer and white cotton bags all by Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey. Red leather sandals by Chelsea Cobbler.

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White straw hat by Herbert Johnson. Navy acrylic singlet by John Craig. White cotton bags by Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey. White leather shoes from Biba.

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White hat by Herbert Johnson. White cotton suit, top trimmed in tartan, huge wide clown pants by Sujon. White leather shoes by Biba. Red and white scarf from Herbert Johnson.

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White angora sweater by Crochetta. White cotton bags by Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey. Red leather shoes by Chelsea Cobbler. Headscarf by Herbert Johnson.

Day Trippers

19 magazine, 1970s, biba, Bilbo, Chelsea Antiques Market, gordon king, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Malcolm McLaren, miss mouse, quorum, rae spencer cullen, Sex, sheridan barnett, stirling cooper, strawberry studio, terry de havilland, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials, Vivienne Lynn, vivienne westwood
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White dress with music and rose print by Miss Mouse. Snakeskin shoes from Bilbo. Red and white spotted dress with white trimming by Miss Mouse.

Photographed in Singapore by Harri Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, May 1975.

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Black and green floral print halterneck dress from Biba. Black and gold shoes by Sex. Green floral halterneck dress by Biba. Black and gold brocade shoes by Biba.

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Shocking pink pintucked cotton dress by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Black snakeskin shoes by Bilbo. Red cotton sack dress with hip pockets by Sheridan Barnett at Quorum. Red suede and snakeskin shoes by Terry de Havilland.

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Dusty pink sun dress with black piping by Strawberry Studio. Grey suede shoes by Terry de Havilland.

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Blue cotton dress with Dorchester motif. Coffee dress with Savoy motif, both by Jeff Banks.

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White cotton culotte dress by Stirling Cooper. White shoes from Secondhand Rose, Chelsea Antique Market. White cotton sun dress by Stirling Cooper. White shoes from Secondhand Rose.

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Navy cotton sundress with cross over straps by Gordon King.

A Moonlight Flit

19 magazine, 1960s, Al Vandenburg, biba, Derek Roe, Dolcis, Elliott, Foale and Tuffin, Gina Fratini, Inspirational Images, Isadora Duncan, Ronald Keith, Shelana, Vintage Editorials
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Floppy Treebark crepe trouser suit with wide straight trousers, waist sash and large frilled collar, by Foale and Tuffin.

Run barefoot through the grass or dance under the stars. Shades of Isadora Duncan* and free, flowing movement. Long, lithe limbs leaping through loose chiffon. Wild intensity in dramatic falls of fabric. The romance of long dresses, of floating frills in transparent fabrics is yours for the asking. Come, do a moonlight flit with us…. *Isadora Duncan. who moved in high society, and whose dancing shook Edwardian England, initiated free dance movement clad in clothes which emphasised her point. We can still thank her for the romantic-looking, drifting dresses inspired by the film revival of her life story — on release in the Autumn, starring Vanessa Redgrave.

Photographed by Al Vandenburg. Hairstyles by Derek Roe.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, August 1968.

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Dress in yellow embroidered voile by Biba.

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Transparent black and white spotted dress from Biba. Shoes by Ronald Keith.

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Tight waist-skimming jacket and knee length skirt in yellow crepe by Foale and Tuffin. Orange shoes by Elliotts.

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Flocked yellow full-skirted Dacron dress by Shelana.

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Romantic white lawn dress by Gina Fratini.  Silver shoes by Dolcis.

Where have all the flowers gone?

1970s, Adrian Mann, Bermona, biba, crowthers, florrie carr, Herbert Johnson, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, ossie clark, Richard Selby, Sacha, Sacha, Vintage Editorials
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Blooming red peonies on a navy rayon georgette dress, Florrie Carr. Flower trimmed straw hat, Crowthers. Shoes, Sacha. Rose print crêpe de chine dress, Crowthers. Straw hat, Bermona. Shoes, Sacha.

…To the seaside, where they’re blossoming out all over flimsy crêpe de chine summer dresses. So, if like most of us, you’re searching the shops for cool holiday clothes, now is the time to take your pick from our bunch.

Photographed by Richard Selby.

Scanned from Honey, August 1971

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Fruit and flower crêpe de chine dress, Crowthers. Orange suede cork soled shoes, Sacha. Pastel tulip printed crêpe de chine skirt and matching blouse, Crowthers. Criss cross suede shoes, Crowthers. Plastic and raffia choker, Adrien Mann.

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Swirling sunflower print dress in cinnamon and cream, Biba. White raffia sunhat, Herbert Johnson. Blue and white daisy patterned crêpe de chine dress, Ossie Clark for Radley. Burgundy straw hat, Biba.

Julie Christie in Fortuny

1970s, Castaldi, Fortuny, Inspirational Images, Julie Christie, Venice, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
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Apricot pleated tunic with green sleeves and cross-gartered leggings. All around, some of Fortuny’s wealth of hand-blocked velvets.

Fortuny dresses have always been collected by women who are beauties and/or intellectuals: Eleanora Duse, Sarah Bernhardt, Isadora Duncan, The Marchesa Casati Stampa, Consuelo, Duchess of Marlborough, Marie-Laure de Noailles, Mrs Gloria Cooper Vanderbilt, Anjelica Huston, Monica Vitti, and now Julie Christie, who bought Fortuny’s pink and silver dress with pleated silk side and glass buttons at a recent auction at Christie’s. Here Julie Christie borrows Fortunys from another collector, Mrs Liselotte Hohs Manera, Austrian painter and ceramist, who is married to an Italian lawyer, and one that belong to Eleanora Duse from Vern Lambert’s collection. Castaldi took the photographs in Venice, where Mariano and Henriette Fortuny lived and worked in the Palazzo Pesaro, which is now the Fortuny Museum, and where Julie Christie has been making the film Don’t Look Now, directed by Nicholas Roeg. She’ll next be seen in Uncle Vanya, on Broadway, an extraordinary production to be directed by Mike Nichols with George C. Scott an Nicol Williamson.

Photographed by Castaldi.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1973.

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Antique violet tunic and skirt pleated like a mushroom: inspired by a visit to Delphi, Mariano Fortuny and his wife, Henriette, created the fabric: Isadora Duncan was the first customer.

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Eleanora Duse’s black velvet dress printed in silver with pleated silk side panels.

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Fortuny’s velvet cloak over a pleated dress of terracotta by St Mark’s and the Doge’s Palace where it must hav swept many times before.

April Flower Evenings

1970s, belinda bellville, bill gibb, Gina Fratini, Inspirational Images, john bates, oliviero toscani, Rayne, Richard Sharah, Sue & Helen, thea porter, Toscani, Uncategorized, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent, zandra rhodes
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Primrose silk georgette camisole top and handpainted satin jacket by Bellville-Sassoon.

Delicate flower evening dresses, in silks and chiffons… Beauty far beyond the English flower garden…

Photographed by Toscani. Make-up by Richard Sharah.

Scanned from Vogue, April 1975.

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Honey coloured silk dress by John Bates. Sandals by Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

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Silk chiffon by Zandra Rhodes. Pink sandals by Rayne.

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Banana silk georgette printed with apricot flowers by Yuki.

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Pale peach silk chiffon with sheer sleeves by Thea Porter.

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Snow orchid chiffon by Sue & Helen. White sandals by Rayne.

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Drift of frilled white silk organza printed with snowdrops by Gina Fratini. Sandals by Rayne.

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Blackberry printed organza by Gina Fratini.

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Cream lace jacket and skirt by Bill Gibb.

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Palest pink silk chiffon by Bill Gibb.

Edina Ronay in Emmerton Lambert

1960s, 1970s, Chelsea Antiques Market, edina ronay, Emmerton and Lambert, hans feurer, Inspirational Images, sunday times magazine, Uncategorized
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The style’s the same, but no two shirts are identical – they are made from 1930s remnants: £8 10s from Emmerton Lambert, Chelsea Antique Market, 253 King’s Road, London SW3.

Edina Ronay modelling some incredible pieces by Emmerton Lambert, one of the cult labels which emerged from the Chelsea Antique Market in the late Sixties. A classic example of the plundering of the 1930s by designers of the time but unlike those creating garments ‘in the style of’, they were instead using period fabrics to create a new, thrown together, patchwork kind of look. I think these have become my favourite kinds of pieces in recent years: perhaps because there’s a tangible link to both periods when you handle them.

Photographed by Hans Feurer.

Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, June 14th 1970.

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Flashy rodeo look: all from Emmerton Lambert, Chelsea Antique Market.

First Essentials

1970s, eric boman, Inspirational Images, janet reger, loungewear, Midas, mild sauce, Rayne, Richard Hamnett, The Savoy, tuttabankem, underwear, Vintage Editorials, Vogue
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Lace and satin nightdress, turquoise and white, by Janet Reger. Mules by Midas.

Photographed by Eric Boman at The Savoy.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, April 1977.

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Silk crepe de chine wrap by Richard Hamnett at Tuttabankem White bra and French knickers by Silhouette at Dickins and Jones. Plastic and marabou shoes by Rayne.

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White layered waist slip by Janet Reger. Clear plastic mules by Midas.

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Briefest white bra and white nyloon very briefs, both by Triumph. Clear plastic mules by Midas.

Go To Blazers

1970s, alistair cowin, bus stop, david montgomery, Electric Fittings, gala, Inspirational Images, lee bender, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, yves saint laurent
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Heavy red cotton blazer, red bows on white voile shirt, blue check shorts, all by Electric Fittings.

Five looks gone to blazers here, five separate ways to be wearing them all summer through – with baggy Oxford bags, check shorts, short trousers, pleated skirts. Other best things to go with blazers are fake flowers, cloche hats, shady straws, veiling, hair nets, print shirts, a bevy of built up shoes. Go get a blazer.

Photographed by David Montgomery. Modelled by Gala Mitchell.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Vogue, May 1971

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Long double breasted white cotton brocade blazer, fuchsia velvet cloche, petrol green crepe pleated skirt, all at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

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Navy denim blazer, navy, ivory and scarlet plaid seersucker bags, white polka dot scarlet acrylic shirt, all at Bus Stop.

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Navy denim blazer pin striped extra fine, white with navy stripe trousers, both by Alistair Cowin.

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Champagne satin blazer in bow print, blue print Chinese alphabet short dungarees, both by Electric Fittings. Sandals and tomato tights at Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.

Get Shirty

1970s, Adrian Mann, alice pollock, alkasura, Butler & Wilson, cacharel, che guevara, Dick Polak, Honey Magazine, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, Joseph, marie france, quorum, Roger Nelson, stirling cooper, Susie Craker, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials
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LEFT: Salmon pink crepe overblouse with short fluted sleeves, Marie France for Quorum £10 approx, from Quorum, 52 Radnor Wealk, SW3 and Heath Street, NW3 ; Quorum shops at all branches of Peter Robinson. Satin trousers, Alkasura £6.50, ,from Alkasura, 304 King’s Road, SW3. Apricot beads £5, amber bangles from 20p each, wide yellow bangle £2, all from Emeline. RIGHT: Crêpe shirred blouse. with tie neck, Alice Pollock at.Quorum £10 approx, from Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, SW3 and Heath Street, NW3; Quorum shops at all branches of Peter Robinson. Green satin trousers, Jeff Banks £7.50, from Jeff Banks Shop at Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1; City Stylish, Newcastle. Gilt dress clips, Universal Witness from 25p each.

The season of the shirt. Wild and waisted. Smart, sharp and snappy. Crisp, cuffed sleeves for the new tight and tailored look. Soft and slinky overblouses to revive the romantic 40s.

The first picture has got to be one of my favourite fashion shots of all time. Such joy in movement, perfect lighting, and harmonious colours from the most heavenly Quorum clothes.

Photographed by Dick Polak.

Scanned by Miss Peelpants from Honey Magazine, May 1973.

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LEFT: Crisp white crêpe pintucked overblouse £8.50, from all branches of Bus Stop (mail order 30p from 3 Kensington Church Street W8). Satin trousers, Alkasura £6.50, from Alkasura, 304 King’s Road, SW3, Thin patent belt, Gay Designs 69p; sea green waist-length bead necklace £4.50, short green necklace £3, and art-deco bangles £2 each, all from a selection at Butler & Wilson. RIGHT: Neat cotton sports shirt with patch pockets, Cacharel at Joseph £8.50, from Joseph, 33b King’s Road, SW3 (mail order 25p). White cotton trousers, Jeff Banks £7.50, from Che Guevara, Kensington High Street, W8 (mail order 25p) ; Jeff Banks shop at Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1. Thin leather belt, Baggage Et General £1.10; plum plastic bangles, Adrien Mann 25p.

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LEFT: Finely striped cotton casual shirt, Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper £6.50, from Stirling Cooper, 94 New Bond Street, W1 ; Stirling Cooper shops at DH Evans, Oxford Street, W1 ; Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1, Leeds, Norwich and Cardiff ; Escalade, Brompton Road, SW3; Kendal Milne, Manchester. Gaberdine Oxford bags, Alkasura £9.50, from Alkasura, 304 King’s Road, SW3. Long polka-dot scarf, Van der Fransen £1 ; wide amber bangle, Paul Stephens 25p; ebony clutch bangle, Adrien Mann £1 ; stretchy webbing belt, Gay Designs £4. RIGHT: Button-through striped cotton blouse with matching attached cravat and deep cuffed sleeves, Ian Batten at Stirling Cooper £7.50 (stockists as for shirt above). Cotton trousers, Jeff Banks £7.50, from Che Guevara, Kensington High Street, W8 (mail order 25p) ; Jeff Banks shop, Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus W1. Enamel dress clips, Universal Witness from 25p each; wavy webbing belt, Gay Designs £4; amder bangles, Emeline 20p each.

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LEFT Smartly striped square-necked. crepe-de-chine overblouse with set-in short sleeves, Suzy Craker at Roger Nelson £9.50, from Way In, Harrods, Knightsbridge, SW1 (mail order 25p) Che Guevara, Kensington High Street, W8 ; Crocodile, Kensington High Street, W8 and .branches. Lilac Trevira trousers, Jakie Ross at Jon Elliott £6.70, from D H Evans, Oxford Street, W1 ; I Spy, Oxford Street, W1 ; Sidney. Smith, King’s Road, SW3; Hendersons, Liverpool. Elastic and leather belt from a selection at Escalade ; bangles, Emeline £2 each. RIGHT : Rainbow striped loose overblouse with sweetheart neckline and puff sleeves, Ian Batten at Siding Cooper 16.50, from Stirling Cooper, 94 New Bond Street, W1 ; Stirling Cooper shops at D H Evans, Oxford Street, W1 Escalade, Brompton Road, SW3; Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1, Leeds, Norwich and Cardiff ; Kendal Milne, Manchester. Gaberdine Oxford bags. Alkasura £8, from Alkasura, 304 King’s Road, SW3. Lime green patent belt, Gay Designs 69p; long bobble beads, Paul Stephens, 85p.