How many ways do you know to wear a headscarf? When you get down to it there are dozens of different ways. We asked singer Marianne Faithfull what her favourite methods were, and she showed us—as here!
When I was little, my mum used to find old Sixties and Seventies girls annuals in charity shops for me to pore over. There are a few things from my early life I can pinpoint as how I became ‘me’ and my tendency towards pop culture from before I was born, and this feature on multiple ways to tie a scarf, modelled by Marianne Faithfull, was definitely one of them. Fortunately it didn’t, as I had feared, get thrown away and now I feel obliged to put it out there into the world.
Scanned from Girls World Annual, 1967.
On the left, Marianne shows a way to add smart interest to a simple blouse or dress. A triangle of matching cotton is made up into a dinky scarf, and is worn more for effect than to keep the hair tidy. It also looks cute tied at the nape, instead of under the chin.
Right : a fun way to wear a scarf is the cowboy style. This is best with a plain dress or sweater.
From left to right : 1 . The most common way to wear a scarf, but Marianne includes the two essential ingredients for prettiness : a crisp unwrinkled scarf and pretty, neat hair. 2. A chiffon scarf is used to hold the hair loosely back. Looped round at the nape, it is knotted, then pinned through the knot to hold it well up on the back of the head. 3. This is a clever way to dress up a scarf for evening wear: a rose tucked under the scarf. This also helps to stop the scarf flattening bouffant hair.
A scarf is formed into a pleated bandeau, and tied just beneath the ear so that the ends come forward on to the shoulder. 5. This is a windproof method, where the ends are crossed over at the chin, then tied at the back. 6. A coronet made of a scarf, a safety pin, and an inch-deep circle of thin cardboard. As for the bandeau it is flat pleated(iron the pleats into place) and wrapped round the cardboard coronet. A safety pin fastens it, and the ends of the scarf, trailing down the back, hide the pin. Use hairpins to hold it in place.
LEFT: Long flowing marocaine wrapover dress with frilled cap sleeves, Radley for Ossie Clark, £15, from Quorum, 113 King’s Road, SW3. Swallow brooch, Adrien Mann, approx £2; antique satin clutch bag with rhinestone star, Titfers, approx £8. RIGHT: Keyhole-fronted crêpe button-through party dress with Chinese word pattern, £12.95, from all branches of Bus Stop, mail order 20p extra from 3 Kensington Church Street, W8. Sequined skull cap, Crocodile, £4; antique powder compact, Butler & Wilson, £4-75.
Short, shiny waves, tight to the head and crowned in a slippery sequin beret add the ritzy touch to oyster satins and champagne silks—daring dresses, glamorous enough for anybody’s Rolls.
Brunette model is Therèse.
Photographed by Brian Downes.
Scanned from Honey, December 1971.
LEFT: Poppy printed black dress, Ossie Clark for Quorum, £16.25. Sheer natural tights, Elle, 45p; high-heeled suede peep-toe shoes, Bata, £6; round beaded evening bag, Butler & Wilson, £8.75; diamante hairslide, Adrien Mann, approx £1.25; diamante stranded necklace, Adrien Mann, £4-50. RIGHT: Daring slash-necked green pineapple printed marocaine dress, Ossie Clark for Radley, £16, from Quorum, 113 King’s Road, SW3. Luxurious white feather boa, Dickins & Jones, £7.60; multi-coloured sequined cap, Crocodile, £4; pale green tights, Elle, 45p; suede peep-toe shoes with bows attached, Sacha, £5.99; diamante rings from a selection by Adrien Mann.
LEFT: Slippery black rayon satin dress with scarlet rose print and plain scarlet bolero, Gillian Richard, £11.60. Jet black sequined cap, Crocodile, £4; black fabric gloves, Fenwicks, £1.30; simple diamante choker, Adrien Mann, approx £1.50; tiny square powder compact from a selection by Butler & Wilson; diamante and pearl brooch and diamante rings from a selection by Corocraft. RIGHT: Ritzy plunge-neck black and multi-coloured satin party dress with black velvet bolero, £12.50, from Boobs, 1 A Chapel Market, N1. Diamante drop ear-rings, Corocraft, approx £2.50.
LEFT: Slithery rayon and satin flower embossed dress and bolero, Gillian Richard, £10, from Way In, Hans Crescent, SW1, mail order 20p extra. Glass and diamante choker, Adrien Mann, approx. £1.50; real silver zig-zag and wavy bangles, John Plenderleith, £8.50 each; suede and snakeskin peep-toe shoes, Upwest, £10.95. RIGHT: Flowery fluted long printed satin skirt, £7.50, waistcoat-jacket, £7.50, and slashed-neck button through satin blouse, £5.95, from all branches of Bus Stop, mail order 20p extra from 3 Kensington Church Street, W8. Diamante drop ear-rings, £2, diamante sailing ship brooch, approx £2, both by Adrien Mann; black suede shoes with mauve diamond pattern, Bata, £4.49; beaded evening bag, Butler & Wilson, £12.50.
Velvet in various guises tunic, Clobber; trousers and suede belt, Feathers; hat, Malyard; lace-up boots, Chelsea Cobbler; neckband, Vivvy at Kensington Antique Market.
Crushed velvet again, sliced into a clean Seventies shape, narrow and knickerbockered but with lace-ruffled sleeves for the right touch of contrary nostalgia. By Polly Peck. Bugle-bead embroidered butterflies on brocade choker from The Purple Shop, Chelsea Antique Market. Child’s midi culotte dress by Just Jon.
Because it’s Christmas. Give yourself time. Time for you and those you love. Time to remember a neglected relative with a telephone call, a lonely neighbour with a visit more meaningful than the automatic instant greeting card. Time too, to think of perfect strangers in other countries, struggling against hardships we can barely imagine. Could be this is the time when a donation to one of those organisations which try to help is truly the spirit of Christmas, A spontaneous flowing of compassion and care from the unknown to the unknown.
Photographed by Frank Horvat.
Scanned from Vanity Fair, December 1970.
Velvet, crushed for texture, so right in brown, turned into a curvy gaucho suit by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey. Perfect, amusing accessory— Biba’s boa from, of course, turkey feathers!
Long, serene, thoughtful dress by Young Jaeger in chestnut and purple printed panne velvet. Wide, full sleeves collected tightly at the wrist, soft, graceful skirt belted at the waist with a wide brown suede appliqued belt from Feathers.
The kind of dress that might have got you Henry VIII — if you had wanted him. Tapestry tunic over a long skirt ; beautiful, low-necked blouse in silk. By Bill Gibb for Baccarat.
Because it’s Christmas. You’re going to forget, for once all the dreary practicalities of life. You’ll have no connection with the girl in the bus queue, wet winter mornings, tiresome clients, ceaseless telephone battles, budgets & diets, mortages and shopping. You’re going to experience the womanly spelndour of long, sumptuous gowns, shaped from luxurious stuffs – rich brocades, painstaking tapestries, beautiful braids; the whole piled into pattern on pattern so that the woman we know we could become emerges from grubby little Cinderella with a nonchalant elegance – relaxed, seemingly pampered and so obviously desreving a custom-made Prince Charming.
And because it’s Vanity Fair, it’s quite a long and endearingly meandering editorial on a loose theme which I will divide into a few different parts. Today, the glorious work of Bill Gibb for Baccarat, photographed so exquisitely I want to live in these images.
Photographed by Frank Horvat.
Scanned from Vanity Fair, December 1970.
Mediaeval splendour in a long tapestry coat, richly panelled in hamster, over a tapestry skirt and silk blouse. Rings, Purple Shop, Chelsea Antique Market ; Biba cameo.
The leisured life – something you can try out at Christmas, no matter how much organisation goes into it, epitomised by the slash-sleeved, printed panne velvet tunic over a ruffle-necked, ruffle-wristed blouse in festive red and green print. Bill Gibb for Baccarat.
Top, £6.90. Matching skirt, £15. Both by Alistair Cowin. Tights by Mary Quant, 50p. Shoes by Sacha, £12-99. Bangles by Sabina at Rama Unit, from 75p. Ear-rings by Swanky Modes, from 75p. / Shirt by Marc O’Polo, £7. Suit by Hardwear Clothing, £50. Shoes by Dolcis, £18.95. / Dress, £15-95. Top, £11.95. Trousers, £9.95. All by Stirling Cooper. Tights by Mary Quant, 50p. Suede shoes, by Terry de Havilland at Derber, £19-95. Black bead necklace, from Baggage And General, from 35p. Other jewellery by Adrien Mann, from £1. / Dress by Ann Reeves, £12.95. Tights by Mary Quant, 50p. Suede shoes, by Terry de Havilland at Derber, £19.95. Blue crystal necklace, from Bombacha, from £1. Other jewellery by Adrien Mann, from £1. / Dress by Strawberry Studio, £22. Tights by Mary Quant, 50p. Shoes by Russell And Bromley, £13.99. Gloves from Bombacha, £1. Jewellery by Adrien Mann, from £1. / Shirt by Marc O’Polo, £8.50. Trousers by Stirling Cooper Jasper, £12.50. Jacket by Hardwear Clothing, £36. Shoes by Dolcis, £18.95.
Be the star of the office party, look chic for cocktails or choose from the ‘Fifties, ‘Sixties and ‘Seventies to stun everyone around. We’ve picked lots of exciting clothes for you to wear at whatever Christmas festivities you are invited to. Go on — take our advice — make a dramatic entrance.
Hair by Carol at Molton Brown.
Photographed by Graham Hughes
Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1975.
Black and green sparkly dress, by Strawberry Studio, £19.95. Tights by Mary Quant, 50p. Strappy shoes, by Dolcis, £6.99. Lurex scarf, from Woolworth, 50p. Jewellery by Adrien Mann, from £1. / Shirt, £5.50. Check suit, £55. Tie, £1. Shoes, £15. All from Sex. / Shot silk tie top, £9.95. Net petticoat skirt, £9.95. Both by Strawberry Studio. Tights by Mary Quant, 50p. Suede shoes, by Terry de Havilland at Derber, £19.95. Pink scarf, from Woolworth, Pink necklace, from £2. Brooch, from 75p. Both by Swanky Modes. Other jewellery by Adrien Mann, from £1. / Green lace cheong san, by Bombacha, £50. Tights by Mary Quant, 50p. Shoes by Terry de Havilland at Derber £19.95. Gloves Bombacha, £10. Bangles by Sabina at Rama Unit from 75p. Earrings by Adrien Mann from £1. / Strapless dress with stole, by Swanky Modes, £21.60. Tights by Mary Quant 50p. Shoes by Saxone, £7.99. Jewellery by Adrien Mann from £1. / Leatherette and jersey sweater £5.95. Black trousers, £4.95. Both from Johnson and Johnson. Winkle-picker shoes, from Sex, £12.95. Red rose from Johnson and Johnson, 50p.
Black strapless dress by Strawberry Studio £18-95. Tights by Mary Quant, 40p. Black shoes by Sacha, £12.99. Diamante jewellery and silver belt by Adrien Mann £1. / Black dress, with thin straps and feather trim, by Strawberry Studio, £18.95. Tights by Mary Quant, 40p. Black shoes, by Sacha, £12.99. Jewellery by Adrien Mann from £1. / Black dress with lace top and one lace sleeve, to order from Taramina, £25. Tights by Mary Quant, 40p. Shoes by Terry de Havilland at Derber, £19.95. Diamante bag, from £1, from Bombacha, from £5. Jewellery by Adrien Mann, from £1. Sequin cap, from Cornucopia, £8. / Jersey top, with net yoke and black leaf motif, and matching skirt, by Wallis, £19.95. Black tights by Mary Quant, 40p. Net gloves, from Bombacha, from £1. Jewellery and belt by Adrien Mann, from £1. / Men’s clothes from One Up Hire Department at Moss Bros.
Reflections of the ’30’s with the soft, silky feel of Light Touch by Berlei and the subtle, sensuous illumination of Price’s candles. `Venetian’, the classic candle style, from Price’s is in 24 different colours and a variety of sizes; from 61p. Light Touch has two styles in White Cloud or Blue Angel, and sizes 34-36a, 34-38b, 34-38c. [Above] shows Plunge’ a deeply plunging bra, £1.95 … made in Qiana, silky, smooth—epitomising that ’30’s feeling.
If you have never felt silk next to your skin, Berlei recreates that sensuous feel with a new range of bras called Light Touch. They are made in a luxurious material, Qiana. Silkier than silk, Light Touch gives you that ’30’s feeling; soft, saucy and sure. Price’s candles echo that mood beautifully, with their subtle, caressing light shimmering around you.
A stunner of an advertorial, sadly with no photographer credit, for Berlei bras with a stunning Seventies-does-Deco aesthetic. Which, in turn, signposts something rather more familiar from later Seventies into Eighties imagery. Whoever this photographer was, I think they were very ahead of the curve (if you’ll pardon the pun!).
Scanned from Vogue, October 1st 1973.
Light Touch in new Qiana are smooth, sensuous bras, feeling like a second silken skin. `Plunge’ seen here is in White Cloud. Price; £1.95. Price’s candle range is an array of colours and an assortment of different sizes and shapes. Shown here is a ‘Gem Light’, one of the Chunky Pillar Candles. Amongst this range are ‘Chelsea’ perfumed candles with 15 different fragrant-les and colours. Price approx 27p.
Silky touch of the ‘ 30’ s —Light Touch from Berlei, integrating with the soft, warm touch from Price’s, giving you a delightful feeling of sweet abandon. ‘Fibrefill’ in White Cloud, made in Qiana, the next best thing to silk, £2.35. Floating Coloured Flame’ is the new revolutionary addition to Price’s range. Its mystical flame is created simply with a glass, a float, a wick and a coloured liquid, red or green. Price approx 85p.
Light Touch has two styles in White Cloud or Blue Angel, and sizes 34-36a, 34-38b, 34-38c. [Above] is ‘Fibrefill’ , the brief contoured bra, £2.35 … made in Qiana, silky, smooth—epitomising that ’30’s feeling. The 10½ ‘Belmontine’ is a luxury candle in several colours. Price approx 85p per pair.
Is it possible to be too clever, too attractive, too successful? Shirley was at breaking point and the one man who could help seemed hopelessly out of reach.
Illustration for an extract of a book ‘Living Room’ by Sol Stein.
Cream Borg fake fur caftan with a square yoke and cuffs in white-stitched navy wet look plastic. By John Bates at Jean Varon, £56.95. Fine knitted triangular shawl wound round the head, £8; fine silk, fringed scarf used as dog’s lead, £4. Both from a range at Bombacha. Ankle boots,. £16.99, Richard Smith at The Chelsea Cobbler.
Assured in films since playing Roberta in The Railway Children, Jenny Agutter “has been in the theatre since the beginning of the year, lately in The Tempest, opposite Sir John Gielgud and Spring Awakening at the National Theatre.
Photographed at Eastnor Castle, Herefordshire, by kind permission of Major and The Honourable Mrs Hervey – Bathurst.
Photographed by Norman Parkinson.
Scanned from Vogue, December 1974.
Violet wool smock to mid calf, flaring and gathered from X. a round yoke, cuffs and hem finished with narrow black braid. By Dorothee Bis, £34.50, at branches of Elle. Tartan muffler in red and green, scarf sold with matching skirt not shown, £35 together, at main branches of Jaeger. Multi-coloured beads, from range, The Purple Shop.
The witching hour—smock shirt dress, white birds flying on yards and yards of transparent black georgette, Alice Pollock for Quorum, £36.75. In her hair, crescent moon £3, and a flash of lightning slide £5.25. Both from the House of Leonard.
Black, the old enchanter. Bewitching, mysterious, romantic. In velvet, satin and soft silk jersey. Dramatic alone or shouting with colour. That timeless black magic still weaves its ancient spell.
Hair by Leonard.
Photographed by Hiroshi.
Scanned from Flair, November 1971.
In best black style. Left : tailored single-breasted embossed velvet jacket, £16.75; matching skirt, £12.60; matching velvet hat £3.50. Brown tea rose, £1.05. All from Biba. Black thorn walking stick from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Right : Silver birds on black velvet blazer, £13.95, satin shirt with black cravat, £5.95; ankle length skirt, £4.95. All from Bus Stop. Sweeping ostrich feather hat by Edward Mann, £3.85.
Celia Birtwell printed Marocaine shirt by Ossie Clark for Quorum, £7.50. Red Poppies, 35p each, Fenwick.
Romantic panne velvet dress by Simon Massey, £16. White full-blown rose on black velvet ribbon, both from John Lewis. Black chenille snood, £1.95 Fenwick.
Graceful blouse with elasticated waist, over matching rayon flared skirt, £21.50 by Mary Quant. Silver diamante belt by Ken Lane, £21.50. Quant’s butterfly tights, Farfalla, 95p. Diamante paste clover leaf on black velvet ribbon, £7.90 by St Laurent Rive Gauche. Black ostrich feather, 55p Biba.
Printed shirtdress buttoned up with red hearts. By Gillian Richard, £9.50. Red heart necklace, £19 by Christian Dior. Sweeping black felt hat, by Buckle Under, £8.
For high coloured drama put black with traffic light colours : red, yellow green and strong electric blue. Wool jersey vest by Sydica at Miss Impact, £4.90. Heart necklace from Elle, £3.75.
Cotton velveteen shirt £9.75, and culottes £7.75. By Alistair Cowin. Jersey wool shirt by John Craig, £4.80. Black leather belt, Fenwick £2.45. Suede boots banded in red, yellow and green, Lilley and Skinner £10.95. Velvet cap by Malyard £5, pinned with red star by Corocraft, 99p.
Warming up to black, in strictly daytime mood, our model wears Guerlains Teint Dore for a real tawny tint, 99p with Juvena’s Sahara Sun Blush Colour Stick as a highlighter, £1.63. Her. eyelids are coloured in Boots No 7 Transparent Eye Tint, 40p, and her lipstick is Chanel Corail, 95p.
Wrap around, tie belted wool jacket. £10.50. Over red Oxford Bags £6.50. Both by Alastair Cowin. Tartan wool man’s scarf, Scotch House £1.25. Black suede beret by Malyard, £16.
The little black dress revamped by Jean Muir in crepe de chine with puffed sleeves, demure bow and flared skirt, £21. Black suede strappy shoes, Russell & Bromley, £19.95. Sheer black tights, Mary Quant, 65p. Rhinestone star, St Laurent Rive Gauche £2.50.
Tie round black wool midi coat, topstitched in white, £22. Matching trousers, £6.25. Both by Elgee. Black and white Orlon tweedy knit tunic jumper, Marks and Spencer £2.95. Herbert Johnson knitted wool cap, £2.50.
Black wool tent coat by Stirling Cooper for Sheraton £16.95. Black wool Kangol beret, 65p. Black and plum suede lace up shoes, Dolcis £8.95. On collar, cupid heart brooch, St Laurent Rive Gauche £14.
Black wool jersey nautical blazer, £15.25, over grey and white knitted wool trouser suit, £28.25. Both by Christopher McDonnell for Marrian-McDonnell. Mock mother of pearl clips, Biba 35p each.
black velvet smoking jacket, £10.50; ankle high skirt in red, yellow and black wool tartan, £5.75. Both from Bus Stop. Cupid heart brooch, Rive Gauche £14. White shetland jumper, £5.50 Scotch House.
Liz Eggleston 