Boots, Bourdin and a very Good Boy

1970s, charles jourdan, guy bourdin, Harpers Bazaar, Vintage Adverts

These seemingly endless adverts Bourdin did for Charles Jourdan are always little works of genius. Also, from a current perspective, I’m enjoying the names of the boots.

Photographed by Guy Bourdin.

Scanned from Harpers Bazaar, September 1970.

Suddenly Suits

1970s, Bermona, biba, bus stop, clobber, crowthers, florrie carr, gladrags, Herbert Johnson, Honey Magazine, Hope and Eleanor, Inspirational Images, Jacqmar, lee bender, lilley and skinner, morgan rank, ravel, Saxone, Sheriloyd, simon massey, Simon Suede, stirling cooper, Vintage Editorials

Tailored diamond jacquard midi suit, Sheriloyd 10½gns. ; cream silk cravat, Jacqmar, 47s. 6d. ; sheer plum tights, Mary Quant 10s. ; triple bar patent shoes, Saxone, 89s. 11d. ; smart velour hat, Herbert Johnson, 95s. ; amber bow brooch, Hope and Eleanor, 45s.

After seasons and seasons of dresses and trousers, suits are back with us again. But the new generation of suits is quite different from any we’ve worn before; sexily elongated with midi skirts and slender waisted jackets, in jacquard jerseys and patterned wools. Suddenly suits are younger, smarter – the newest way to get yourself looking together.

Photographed by Morgan Rank.

Scanned from Honey, November 1970.

Dusty pink wool jersey midi suit with fluted lilac and pink striped jacket, Stirling Cooper, 10 gns. ; cream jacquard knit shirt, Clobber, 87s. 6d. : wavy plum and white leather belt, Simon Suede, 63s.: sheer plum tights, Berkshire, 7s. ; walnut patent silver buckle court shoes, Ravel. £5 19s. 11d.

Plum and navy flower-chain suit, Bus Stop, £8 10s. ; plum velour hat, Herbert Johnson, 95s. ; plain brown leather gloves, Dents, 57s. 6d. ; sheer black coffee tights, Wolford, 13s. ; walnut laced shoes, Ravel, £5 19s. 11d.

Zipped-up Dacron and wool jacquard jacket, 10 gns., with matching midi kilt, 6 gns., both by Gladrags : geometric crepe scarf Sarah Jane. 56s.

Teatime zig-zag jacquard jersey suit, Crowthers, £10 ; purple tights, Elle, 9s. : shiny purple shoes, Lilley & Skinner, 99s. 11d. : crushed velvet cloche. Bermona, 65s.: seed bead rope, Indiacraft, 11s.

Elegant long lean jersey midi suit, Florrie Carr, £10 3s. Ban-lon shirt with billowing sleeves, Simon Massey, £7 ; sheer purple tights, Elle, 9s. : patent laced-up granny shoes, Lilley & Skinner, 99s. 11d. : wide-brimmed felt hat, Biba. 42s. ; antique cameo brooch. Hope & Eleanor, £4 15s.

Nifty Fifties

19 magazine, 1970s, antony price, che guevara, Emmerton and Lambert, Gamages, Inspirational Images, Mick Milligan, mr freedom, Phyllis Collins, Roger Charity, stirling cooper, Titfers, universal witness, Vintage Editorials

Yellow crepe blouse by Antony Price at Che Guevara, £5. Sky blue floral patterned skirt with plain blue panels, from Universal Witness, £6. Black bead necklace from a selection at Emmerton and Lambert. Sunglasses are the model’s own.

Rock around the tops that look as though they’ve come straight from the era of the hand-jive and Radio Luxembourg. That’s because our bright young designers have revived such golden oldies as the off-the-shoulder sweater and the shirtwaister blouse. So just add dirndl skirts, popper bead bracelets, swing out in hoop earrings, and we’ll see you later, alligator…

I am sorry to say that I don’t know the name of the model in this spectacular editorial, but I’m pretty sure that she’s the same model as in the video for Stuck in the Middle With You by Stealer’s Wheel. She of the gratuitous eclair-eating – and the most incredible platform shoes I’ve ever seen. It’s safe to say that I was captivated by her look in that video when I was a teenager (with an unhealthy fixation on watching VH1 rather than MTV). So if anyone knows her name, do let me know!

Edited to add, thank you to those who identified her as Jenny Gaylor, I’m eternally grateful.

Photographed by Roger Charity.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, October 1971.

Off-the-shoulder red and white striped woollen sweater, £4.50. Red crepe pencil skirt fastens down the back with large white buttons, £6. Both by Phyllis Collins at Stirling Cooper. White vanity case by Antler, £7.25. Cotton scarves, from Gamages, 35p each.

Black and white striped voile shirt with batwing sleeves and pintucks at the waist, by Antony Price at Che Guevara, £5. Violet satin skirt, from Universal Witness, £7.50. Black and white spotted cotton hankie, from Herbert Johnson, 40p. Button brooch, designed for Zandra Rhodes by Mick Mulligan.

Emerald green and white striped woolen sweater with ties at shoulders, £4.50. Matching satin jersey pencil skirt with buttons down the back, £6. Both by Phyllis Collins at Stirling Cooper. Hoop earrings by Adrien Mann, £1.50. Necklace by Funny Bijou at Titfers, £1.50. Silver bow ring by Mick Milligan at Mr Freedom.

Ireland Lends Poetry to Fashion

1970s, Anders Holmquist, baccarat, bill gibb, chelsea cobbler, cherry twiss, christian dior, Deliss, Diorling, Gina Fratini, Inspirational Images, Mexicana, Nettie Vogues, telegraph magazine, The Sunday Telegraph Magazine, Vintage Editorials, Worth

A white cotton lace dress by Mexicana, seen in the tranquil green surroundings of Mount Kennedy in Co. Wicklow.

Many designers look increasingly to the past for their inspiration, and, to find suitable backgrounds for modern clothes. Fashion Editor Cherry Twiss took a selection to Ireland where, with the help of the Irish Georgian Society, she discovered magical, timeless settings for the newest fashions.

“Upgathering Feather-like frills, they step demure as nuns, Nor heed the menacing eyes on every side, Dead set unceasingly like levelled guns. Truly I think each woman is a bird.” Seamus O’Sullivan, Birds.

As always, no shouting at the me for the furs please. Pretend they’re fake. Enjoy the pretty clothes and landscapes instead…

Plaits by Tovar Tresses at Miss Selfridge.

Hair by Roger at Vidal Sassoon.

Make-up by Estee Lauder.

Photographed by Anders Holmquist.

Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, August 21st 1970.

Lofty ancestral staircase at Mount Ievers, Co. Clare makes a beautiful, subdued setting for Baccarat’s pleated skirt and printed suede tunic. The laced boots are by Deliss.

Recalling former glories at Dollardstown, a drifting Ascher silk giselle dress, all frills and flounces, designed by Gina Fratini and worn with a beaded choker. Taffeta boots from The Chelsea Cobbler.

Mount Ievers, reflected in its own pool, speaks for the brooding timelessness of old Ireland. The black velvet Diorling midi suit is worn with a winged, onyx clip. The black silk boots are made by Deliss.

Feather like frills in the tangled splendour of the grounds of Dollardstown, Co. Meath. Black pleated organza cape and dress by Nettie Vogues. Boots by Deliss.

At the gates of Mount Ievers, a swirling tweed cape, fringed in black wool, by the House of Worth. Leather boots by Deliss.

Bunch of Pinks

1970s, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, bill klein, cosmopolitan, Erika Bergmann, hair, Hair and make-up, Inspirational Images, john kelly, Make-up

Cover picture of Erika Bergmann by John Kelly. Erika is wearing our Cosmo fluffy feather jacket offer – exclusive to Cosmo readers. Turn to page 99 for details. Eriika’s pink and silver lame dress, £9, pink bangle 55p, bunch of pinks 25p, all from Biba, Kensington High St, W8. Hair is arranged by Pauline of Michaeljohn, the make-up by Biba; eyes are shadowed with Havana Brown powder tint over Havana Brown gloss, with Sugar Pink powder under the eyebrows. The false lashes are Brown Spiders and the lipstick is Sugar Pink topped with lipgloss. The tan is the model’s own work.

Photographed by John Kelly (cover) and Bill Klein (feature).

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, September 1972.

It’s Cool

1970s, biba, Browns, Buckle Under, bus stop, crowthers, duc, florrie carr, Foale and Tuffin, Get, gillian richard, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, Jasper, lee bender, liberty, liberty's, ravel, Sujon, Vintage Editorials, yves saint laurent

Pale blue sisal hat with peacock feathers, by Buckle Under Enterprises, £10. Rayon crepe de Chine long-sleeved dress with multi-coloured wild flowers on a navy blue background with ribbons on its tie belt, by Sujon, £14.50. Red tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. White wet-look ankle-strap wedge sandals. from Ravel. £5.99.

Fresh and pretty is the look you should aim for this summer, with maybe an inch or two of knee bravely peeping out from under floral prints on crepe de Chine or crisp cotton. Match your dress with brightly coloured tights and wear straw hats adorned with bunches of fruit and flowers, or a silk scarf and wedge shoes to complete your summer ensemble.

Photographed by Duc.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, June 1971.

Cream sisal hat with flowers. by Buckle Under Enterprises, £10. Dress with bodice gathered into half yoke at front and a long sash tie, in crepe de Chine with pale pink and lemon flowers on a black background, by Crowthers, £11.50. Blue tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. White leather wedge shoes, from Ravel, £7.50. Red sisal hat, from Crowthers, £3.50. Floral printed short-sleeved crêpe de Chine dress in pastel colours, with artificial flowers on a décolleté neckline, by Crowthers, £11.25. Yellow tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. Wedge shoes, from Ravel, £7.50.

Straw hat from Crowthers, £3.50. Floral printed cotton dress with green, white and yellow flowers on puffed sleeves and skirt has a bodice of black cotton jersey, by Get, £5.50. Blue tights by Ballito, 40p. Yellow espadrilles, by Yves St. Laurent, £8.90. Navy cotton hankie tied over eyes by Herbert Johnson, 40p. Straw hat from Biba, £1.25. Cotton dress with red and yellow lowered print of puffed sleeves and skirt has a bodice of black cotton jersey, by Get, £5.50. Yellow tights by Ballito, 40p. Red espadrilles with rope wedge heels, by Yves St. Laurent, £8.90. Artificial flowers on hat, from Biba, £1.05 each.

Red cotton Liberty print smock with drawstring neck and patch pockets, by Foale and Tuffin, £15.50. White leather shoes, from Ravel, £7.50. Cotton dress in panels of three different Liberty prints, by Foale and Tuffin, £14. White leather shoes, from Ravel, £7.50. Rayon crepe de Chine dress with floral print, by Sujon, £14.50. White wet-look patent shoes, from Ravel, £5.99. Sisal hats, from Browns, £7. Silk scarves, by Jasper, £3.50. Tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. Hoola Hoops from Hamleys, London, W.1.

Beige sisal hat by Buckle Under Enterprises, £10. Sunshine yellow moss crepe dress with embroidered flowers at each side of the shirred, smocked-look front panel, by Florrie Carr, £9. Yellow tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Ankle-strap wedge sandals, from Ravel, £5.99.

Red sisal hat from Crowthers, £3.50. Floral crepe de Chine dress with a double collar, pin-tucked pleats, and thin tie belt, by Gillian Richard, £6.87. Grey tights by Mary Quant, 75p. White wedge shoes from Ravel, £7.50. Cream sisal hat from Browns, £7. Rayon dress with red poppies on a blue background, gathered into a square yoke, by Lee Bender for Bus Stop, £6.95. Red tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Wedge shoes from Ravel, £7.50. Red hankie around hat, from Herbert Johnson, 40p.

Ossie Vamps it Up – But Superbly

1970s, celia birtwell, flair magazine, Inspirational Images, kari ann muller, manolo blahnik, ossie clark, Peter Rand, quorum

Long dress with side pleats and sash tie at back, in black marocain flower print, red poppies at the neck.

OSSIE CLARK, twenty-nine, designs clothes that would be right up the street for the woman whose profession is the oldest in the world. There’s nothing Woman’s Lib. here, thank you. His twelfth collection is outlandishly, gloriously and candidly tarty. But tarty in the ’40s and early ’50s sense of dressing: brazen, glamorous, passion-ately female. The cut of the clothes is masterful. The old black magic is there. Jazzy sequins. Star insets. High wedge heels. Ankle straps. Bias cut crepe. Oodles of pleats. Blowsy tulips and full-blown poppy prints. Plus black, and lots of it. You name it—it’s there, superbly executed.

Fabrics include new prints on marocain by Ossie’s wife, Celia Birtwell. Hairdos evoke memories of Rita Hayworth & Co. And contours are as they should be: breasts (bra-less), waists, hips and bottoms are all back in their rightful place — and proud of it. Ossie’s new clothes are as scarlet womanish as they are beautiful and witty. When you wear them you automatically adopt a Monroe wiggle.

Top price for a frock from his collection is £150, but around a fiver will buy you a printed crepe shirt. You may not be able to take this look seriously — but it will probably influence the way you dress next season. For Ossie’s secret as a designer is that his tarty vamps keep chic and never look cheap, jaded, or just plain common.

Photographed here are a selection of Ossie’s new clothes.

All enquiries for stockists and prices to Quorum Wholesale, 6 Burnsall Street, SW3.

Modelled by Kari-Ann Muller.

Hair by Richard at Maximillian.

Shoes by Manolo Blahnik for Zapata, 49 Old Church Street, SW3, from £17.75.

Photographed by Peter Rand.

Scanned from Flair, August 1971.

Red and green strawberry embroidery on black crepe Oxford bags, matching waistcoat and jacket and red blouse.

A Long, black, marocain dress side pleats, printed with pink and green begonias.

A black marocain multi-coloured flower print dress with suede halter bib trimmed with ric-rac.

Red, blue and green poppy and daisy print on black marocain hour-glass dress.

Red crepe off-the-shoulder dress (with strawberry embroidered 11″ jacket, not shown).

Magic Moments

1970s, anello and davide, biba, Bilbo, Britannia Land of Plenty, Diane Logan, Dranella, edward mann, Feathers, gillian richard, gordon king, Inspirational Images, jeff banks, John Carter, kangol, Leicester Shoes, Maggi of London, Marcia Brackett, mary quant, miss selfridge, petticoat magazine, Pollock's Toy Museum, Richard Green, Travers Tempos, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials

Left: Winceyette dress, Mary Quant, £14,15. Miss Selfridge. Hat, Britannia Land of Plenty. Quant tights, 75p. Ankle boots, Anello & Davide, £7.75. Far left: Top, Richard Green, £4.75. Way In. Wool pants, Mary Quant £6.60, Simpsons, W1. Hat, Diane Logan, £4.50. Quant tights, £1.50. Clogs, £5.99 Leicester Shoes at Up West, W1. (Inset: Winceyette dungarees, Gordon King, £7.54, Irvine Sellers. Cardigan Marshall London £4.50, Guys and Dolls. Beret, Kangol £1.40. Biba bracelet. Quant angora sox, 50p. Clogs £5.99, Leicester Shoes. Tom & Jerry dress, Travers Tempos, £5.90. Dickins and Jones, WI. Hat, Feathers, £6.50. Quant sox 50p. Slingback flatties, Bata, £7.99).

Winceyette steps gently from bedtime to daytime with a magic story to tell about dungarees and smocks, dresses and skirts. The prints are childlike, the colours soft and while they conjure up memories of long-ago nurseries they will make you everything that is adult and feminine.

Photographs taken at Pollock’s Toy Museum, Scala St., W1

Fashion by Marcia Brackett.

Photographed by John Carter.

Scanned from Petticoat, 12th August 1972.

House print smock top, Jeff Banks, £10, Fenwicks, W1. Wool pants, Mary Quant, £6.60. Simpsons W1. Hair comb, tailpieces 25p. Bilbo calf boots £9. Long winceyette skirt with kitten hem, Gordon King, £5.45 at Miss Selfridge. Airplane top, Maggi of London £4.30, at all branches of Snob. Pull-on hat Feathers. Angora sox Quant, 50p. Leather slip-ons, Samm, £8.95.

Striped top in winceyette with batwing sleeves, Dranella, £6.85 and pants, £7.10 at Miss Selfridge, W1. Scarf, £1 at Van der Fransen. Suede clogs, £4.99, Leicester shoes, Up West, Wl. Winceyette floral top, Traver Tempos 15.90, Sidney Smith, SW3. Wool Oxford bags Richard Green, £5.90, Way In. Necklace, Paul Stephens. Biba Bracelet, Edward Mann angora pull-on hat £2.60. Biba shoes £6.20.

Winceyette teddy print smock and matching skirt, Travers Tempos, £4.50 each at Sidney Smith SW3. Necklace from Britannia Land of Plenty SW3. Hair combs, Tailpieces 25p. Mary Quant shoes. Teddy pants and panelled top, Travers Tempos £8.50 at Sidney Smith SW3. Felt bowler Edward Mann £2.80. Swan brooch Britannia Land of Plenty.

Winceyette pyjama top, £6.60 and pants, £6.60 with kitten trim, Gordon King, Miss Selfridge, Quant sox, 50p. Hair slides, Tailpieces, 10p. Jersey dress with floral panels in winceyette, Gillian Richard, £8 at Way In. Quant wool tights £1.50. Bilbo midi boots, £9.

Cornucopia

1970s, Adrian Mann, Badges and Equipment, corocraft, crowthers, flair magazine, Illustrations, philip castle, universal witness

I. Red and white enamel and gilt bumble-bee with pearly eyes/78p. 2. Blue, green and red enamel and gilt dragon-fly/78p. 3. Green and red enamel and gilt dragon-fly/90p, all by Adrien Mann. 4. Red plastic may-bug, Universal Witness/75p. 5. Small green and blue enamel and gilt dragon-fly, Adrien Mann, 57p. 6. Antique nickel plated bumble-bee, Gay Designs/69p. 7. Red plastic bunch of cherries, Adrien Mann/95p. 8. Chrome acorn and oak-leaves badge, Badges and Equipment/45p. 9. Creamy plastic peacock, Universal Witness/75p. 10. Shiny red enamel continental tomato, Corocraft/69p. 11. Small house badge, Crowthers/ 33p. 12. Double daisy with green enamel petals and red enamel centres, Adrien Mann £1.08. 13. Spotty apple badge, Crowthers/ 37p. 44. Green enamel apple/69p. 15. Yellow enamel pear/69p, both by Corocraft.

Pin on a badge like one of these and you’re back to nature in a small way. Picture badges, winged thing pins, discs in the shape of fruit, flowers and plants-all are part of the new, slightly naive look in accessories. And whereabouts on your person, you might ask, do you actually pin a bumble-bee or a pear? Answer is anywhere. On your left sleeve. Let a dragon-fly come to rest at your hemline. Let an oakleaf sprout on a kneesock. Just let the badge be where it falls naturally.

Illustration by Philip Castle.

Scanned from Flair, August 1971.