La Femme Provocatrice

1970s, Antiquarius, biba, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, Joan Ferguson, marie france, Michael Berkofsky, nostalgia, quorum, radley, Vintage Editorials
Saucy scarlet chiffon see-through blouse with ruffled V-neck, Joan Ferguson £10.50, from Joan Ferguson, Antiquarius, 135 King’s Road, SW3. Sheer black stockings, Fenwicks 40p ; high-heeled leather peep-toe shoes, Biba £.7.90; silver and black beaded choker on a petersham band, Nostalgia £5.

Entice in clothes of clinging silk and flowing crepe de chine, fragile and provocative. Mata Hari knew the secret … try it for yourself.

Photographed by Mike Berkofsky.

Scanned from Honey, September 1974.

Shiny ivory slippery satin evening dress with fluted cap sleeves and tightly fitted bodice that flares out at the hem, from a selection of ‘originals’ at Nostalgia, £15, from Nostalgia, 29 Bedfordbury, WC2. Carved jet coiled snake bangle, Chelsea Gems £20; twisted silver and black beaded rope, Corocraft ’75p ; ruched peep-toe leather shoes, Biba £7.95. Courant Eau de Parfum Mist Mini-Spray, Helena Rubinstein 95p. French Officer’s uniform and Russian Naval Officer’s uniform are to hire from Bermans & Nathan, 40 Camden Street, NW1. Black curly Mata Hari wig, ‘Magpie’ by Carmen, £12.95, styled by Trevor at Ricci Burns.

Pale peach crepe-de-chine blouse with cafe-au-lait lace-trimmed collar and breast pocket and looped button front, Marie France of Greenrock £15, from Crocodile, 98 New Bond Street, W1 and branches. High-waisted long black crepe skirt with tightly ruched front waistband and tie back, Radley £16, from Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, SW3 and Heath Street, NW3. Black ruched nylon evening gloves, Morley 99p. Heaven Sent Perfume Spray Mist, Helena Rubinstein from 72p.

Jet black and silver bugle-beaded ‘original’ chiffon shimmy dress with handkerchief hem, £40 from a selection at Nostalgia, 29 Bedfordbury, WC2. Black leather peep-toe shoes with ruched front, Biba £7.90 ; sheer black tights, Mary Quant 40p.

Loose peach coloured crêpe-de-chine overblouse with fluted sleeves and plunging V-neck, lace trimmed front, Joan Ferguson £7.00, from Antiquarius, 135 King’s Road, SVV3. Scarlet crêpe hip-hugging gored mid-calf length skirt, Quorum £12.50, from Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, SW3, Heath Street, NW3. Apple Blossom Perfume Mist Mini-Spray, Helena Rubinstein 72p.

Scarves from head to toe

1960s, Adrian Mann, biba, celia birtwell, edward mann, Ginger Group, headscarves, Inspirational Images, Jaeger, janice wainwright, jinty, liberty, liberty's, Liz Smith, Marlborough, mary quant, observer magazine, polly peck, quorum, Richard Allan, simon massey, Steve Hiett, steven hiett
Long chiffon scarf designed by Celia Birtwell, 2 gn., from the Vidal Sassoon Shop, 44 Sloane Street, W1; Quorum, 52 Radnor Walk, SW3. White Tricel tricot blouse, part of set, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, 13 gn., with contrast trousers and jerkin, from Bazaar, Knightsbridge, SW1.

Scarves, instead of being dismissed as last year’s fashion gimmick, are being perpetuated as this year’s most important accessory. Still the simplest way to wear a scarf is to flip a long one casually college-style around the neck. As long as it’s not literally a college scarf this somehow adds enough chic to whatever you wear, without making you look fussily overdressed. There are dozens of different ways to tie a scarf. Smart French girls are tying scarves around their waists, twisted in with chain belts or beads. Marc Bohan at Dior makes headscarves tied pirate-style look young and chic, and shows scarves tied like a man’s tie. Although large squares will still be in demand to wear on the head or folded up as cravats, the big fashion in scarves is still for long ones, preferably fringed. Men will have to accept with a good grace that they have lost their long-established monopoly of fringed silk scarves. Until now almost the only places to find them were men’s departments, antique market stalls or somebody’s attic. (Shawls are the latest craze from jumble sales.) But shopping for scarves is easier this spring, with stocks at last in every shape and size. Hair by Valerie at Cheveux, 15 Abingdon Road, London W8.

Fashion by Liz Smith.

Photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned from The Observer Magazine, March 1969.

Paisley printed chiffon square, 63s., from Liberty, Regent Street, W1. Hat by Edward Mann, 49s. 11d., in a variety of colours. Tricel jersey tunic shirt (with trousers), by Jinty, 8 gn.

Tied around the waist a filmy silk square by Richard Allen, 75s., from Fenwick, 63 New Bond Street, WI. Pearl and turquoise twisted bead belts with tassel ends, by Adrien Mann, 30s. each, from Harrods; Kendal Milne, Manchester. Beige crepe shirtsleeved jumpsuit £41 10s., from Jaeger, Brompton Road, Sloane Street, Baker Street and a number of provincial branches.

Pirate-style cotton handker-chief, 17s. 6d. from Liberty. Silver brooch on shoulder, 30s., silver bracelets, £1 7s. 6d. each; all from Indiacraft, Marble Arch, W1. Tricel jersey dress by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £5 19s. 6d., from Bazaar.

Indian silk scarf, 36 in. square, £1 11s. 6d., from Indiacraft, Silver chain, 18s. 6d. from Fenwick. Cigarette holder from Tunisia. Tunic dress in Lancola jersey by Marlborough, 11 gn., with trousers, from Peter Robinson.

Extra long silk scarf looks good tied as a sash, also in black, £2 2s. 6d., from Biba, 19-22 Kensington Church Street, W8, and by post. Rayon chiffon smock dress, by Polly Peck, 13 gn.

Square scarf tied like a tie, silk crepe de chine, 7 gn. yard, 36 in. wide, from Liberty. Dacron and cotton blouse, also in white, pale blue, brown, lagoon and pink, £5, from all Young Jaeger branches. Courtelle Neospun jersey pinafore-topped trousers designed by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey, £8 18s. 6d. Maltese cross on chain by Adrien Mann, 25s. Tibetan bird ring £1 10s. from Indiacraft. Sunglasses by Corocraft, 25s.

Silk stole to wear as a sash, by Richard Allen, £7 17s. 6d., from Fenwick. Simple round-necked sleeve-less jumpsuit zipping up the back, in linen-look rayon, navy, beige, thyme or caramel, £14 10s., from Jaeger, London, and all provincial shops. Red and navy slingback shoes, 79s. 11d., from Dolcis. White plastic chain belt by Adrien Mann, £1. Page-boy wig, £21 15s., from Beyond The Fringe, 59 Brook Street, London

Varnish in a summer rainbow

1970s, beauty, biba, chelsea cobbler, Inspirational Images, Lester Bookbinder, mary quant, platforms, Rayne, Russell & Bromley, Samm, shoes, Vogue
Strawberry leather centurion straps on cork, £8.95, at The Chelsea Cobbler. Mint green suede knotted across cork, £8.95, by Giusti, at Russell & Bromley, main branches. Toe paints : big toe, Biba Matisse Green. Second, Quant Lime Lolly. Third, Quant N/C 73. Fourth, Biba Royal. Little toe, Wolz Italiana 155 Laguna.

Summer’s sandals have lots of straps and knots and plaits and weaving, they are leather on huge slices of cork, in colours of caramel ice and salads. Toenails are as fresh and bright. Paint yourself a summer foot.

Photographed by Lester Bookbinder.

Scanned from Vogue, June 1972.

Caramel woven and plaited leather on small leather heel, £20, at Rayne, Bond St, Regent St. Caramel cream woven leather on cork, £8.95, at Samm, 205 Kensington High Street. Toe saints . Longlex Pistachio. Pedicures by Elizabeth Arden

Biba’s getting bigger

1960s, anello and davide, art nouveau, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, chelsea cobbler, Deco Inspired, Inspirational Images, interior design, interiors, James Fox, kensington high street, Liz Smith, Mensday, menswear, observer magazine, Steve Hiett, steven hiett
Lampshade, 12gn. Small satin cushions, 16s. 11d. each; large, 27s. 11d. Tablecloth, 70in. diameter, 5gn. Ostrich feathers, 18s. each. Satin material, 36in. wide, 9s. 11d. a yd.; thick felt, 54in. wide, 53s. 6d. a yd ; thin felt, 70-72 in. wide, 27s. 6d. a yd. Fringing : plain cotton, 5s. 6d. a yd ; in Biba colours, 8s. 9d. a yd. Glass goblets, 21s. 6d. each. Steak knife, steak fork, dessert knife, 33s. 6d. each; soup spoon, dessert spoon, 37s. 6d. each; bread knife, £2 10s.; carving set, 1Ogn. Soup cup, 14s. 6d. ; egg cup, 3s. 9d.; 7-inch plate, 4s. 9d.; 81-inch plate, 7s. 6d.; 10-inch plate, 9s. 6d. Satin night-dress, £3 15s. 6d. Mock ivory bead necklace, 34s.; rings, 1s. 3d. each.

Now there’s hardware and haberdashery, furnishings and fabrics, cosmetics and mens-wear, all carrying the Biba label. Their brave transition from dolly boutique to department store was made last week when Biba opened in Kensington High Street. Although a baby store compared with neighbouring Barker’s, Biba does boast marble floors, a carved gallery from the old St Paul’s school, and a commissionaire at the huge glass doors.

Faithful customers can still find among the familiar palm fronds clothes to wear themselves or put on their children, but everything is on a much bigger scale. Colour-matched underwear and tights are on sale in a special conservatory-style department, and there’s a complete range of Biba makeup and cosmetics, and many more accessories.

But what’s really new, are the clothes for men, and the things for the house.

There’s nothing simple or austere about a Biba home life. The girl whose idea of some-thing comfortable to wear around the house is a slinky satin dress chooses a plush back-ground and hardware that’s softly elegant. Cutlery is rich-looking in gilt and mother of pearl, or silver and ebony. China is white and gold, glasses are chunky goblets. Specially printed wallpapers and furnishing fabrics, plain satins, felts, braids and trimmings, have carefully matched emulsion paints, lamp-shades and cushions, all in a range of 15 colours. Biba are selling the raw materials so that you can make what you want of them. The clue to their own style is Art Nouveau, but the way you choose to use them will be your own.

Biba men’s clothes are worn in these pictures by James Fox, who can currently be seen in ‘Isadora’ and whose new film, ‘Performance’, in which he co-stars with Mick Jagger, comes out next month.

Mr Fox is long and slender and can have little problem kitting himself out elegantly, but the clothes he wears here, plus others by Biba in velvets and tweeds, all come in a size range bigger than most. So fatter men can have fun with clothes too, and at a reasonable price.

By Liz Smith.

Photographed by Steve Hiett.

Scanned from The Observer Magazine, 21st September 1969.

Biba 3 is definitely the Biba I’m most captivated by, I think possibly because it was edged out so quickly by the much bigger (and more Deco) Big Biba and yet was, I think, the perfect encapsulation of the aesthetic and the first time the ‘department store’ ideal was manifested. Basically, I wish there were more photos so I do try and scan them when I find them! It’s also nice to see the menswear getting a bit of attention for once.

Pure wool herringbene tweed trousers cut to curve over the foot 6gn.; matching buttoned jerkin, £5 10s. Pure silk shirt and tie, 6gn. Art Nouveau statue, £7 10s.; necklace, 34s.; veiling, 2s. a yd. Marbled patent shoes, 12gn., from the Chelsea Cobbler, 33 Sackville Street, W1. Vanilla coloured Imperial Russian cigarettes by Sobranie, 11s. 3d. for 25. Carved ivory cigar holder, £21 ; ivory chess men, part of a set, £80; both from W. Barrett, 9 Old Bond Street, W1.
White worsted wool jacket with safari pockets and belt, 15gn.; matching trousers shaped over the foot, 8gn. Brown and cream printed rayon shirt, 5gn.; matching tie, 39s. 6d. Co-respondent shoes, £5 15s. from Anello & Davide, 30 Drury Lane, London, WC2. Teacup, 5s. 6d.; saucer, 3s. 3d.,2) All Biba prices here are approximate.

The Vamp’s Back

1970s, Anne Tyrrell, barbara hulanicki, biba, chelsea cobbler, Derber, Fortuna, gillian richard, just looking, Marcia Brackett, mary quant, mr freedom, nostalgia, petticoat magazine, Sacha, Spectrum, terry de havilland
There’s a party in the air—just getting in the mood? Green satin, long dress, Biba, Kensington High. Street, W8, £9.40. Lace gloves from a selection at Nostalgia, 29 Bedfordbury, New Row WC2, Bracelets from Emeline, SW3. Sparkle beads by Adrien Mann. Perspex shoes by Terry de Havilland, £15 from Derber Shops.

For much too long now, “dressing up” to go out has been looked upon as simply too uncool for words. Being chic meant arriving at a party in the clothes you got up in that morning and heaven help a girl who attempted anything more extravagant than a lurex halter top and trousers. This year the festive season takes its revenge – and with a vengeance! There is room for all the glamour you can muster and then some. It’s time for every girl to discover her own specially good assets, be it a neat pair of legs, smooth shoulders or an uplifting bust, and then show them off in shimmering satin, coolest crepe n’ dazzling decoration.

Pictures taken at Lindos, Rhodes, where Petticoat’s fashion and beauty team stayed by courtesy of Cosmopolitan Holidays Ltd., 296, Regent Street, W1.

Hair by Christine at Mane Line.

Fashion by Marcia Brackett.

Photographed by Fortuna.

Scanned from Petticoat Magazine, 1st December 1973.

A girl knows how to get things going…Long-sleeved, V-neck dress with ruched bodice, by Anne Tyrell for John Marks, £20.95, Wallis Shops. Feather boa, £8.95, at Just Looking, SW3. Bangles from Emeline, SW3. Sparkle beads at Way In, S W1, £1-85. Black sparkly shoes, Terry de Havilland, £15.

And how to cool it down . . Sleeveless dress with ruched front and diamante trim at Spectrum, 70 Gloucester Road,SW7, £29.50. Silver stud earrings, Paul Stephens. Silver poppet beads, Way In, SWI. Silver shoes, Chelsea Cobbler.

Even going home in the small hours can be romantic …Swirl skirt dress with gold lurex relief by Mary Quant, £28, at Bourne and Hollingsworth, W1. Feather boa from Mr. Freedom, SW3, £8-85. Chiffon scarf, “208”, SW10. Beaded purse from Nostalgia, 29 Bedfordbury, WC2. Gold snakeskin shoes by Terry de Havilland for Sacha, £9.99.

Two of the nicest escorts any girl could find . . Black and silver striped lurex vest dress with matching jacket, £12.90, by Gillian Richard at all branches of Miss Selfridge.

Soft and Pretty

1970s, biba, clobber, David Finch, Dolcis, Feathers, gillian richard, Inspirational Images, petticoat magazine, Pourelle, ravel, Rosie Nice, Sacha, Sue Hone, Vintage Editorials
Gillian Richard dress, £17.10s., Miss Selfridge, W.1. Biba tights, 10s.6d. Biba choker, £1.2s. Ravel shoes, £6.19s. 11d.

Softly, softly, ever so gently, it’s velvet— printed! It’s as pretty as a picture—so cling to it

Styling by Sue Hone.

Photographed by David Finch.

Scanned from Petticoat Magazine, 3rd October 1970.

Pourelle midi with laced-front jacket, 131.10s., Fifth Avenue shops, Quant tights, 15s.11d. Biba butterfly, Dolcis shoes, £4.19s.11d. Pourelle short-sleeved top and skirt, £21., Fifth Avenue, W.1. Biba tights, 10s.6d., suede belt, £2.10s. Sacha shoes, £7.19s.6d. 36 Panne velvet is expensive we know — but worth it!
Knickerbockers with short-sleeved top, Pourelle, £18.18s., from Tracy, W.1., Biba canvas boots, £7.10s. Feathers cotton hat and scarf, £2.7s.6d. Clobber midi, £13.13s., Girl, W.1. Quant patterned tights, 16s.11d. Rosie Nice scarf, £1.15s. Browns ring, £3. 3s. Ravel spats, £5.5s.

19 and Biba are Back in Brown!

19 magazine, 1970s, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, Vintage Editorials
Ankle-length brown linen coat and matching trousers, 10gns. Long narrow white silk scarf, 2gns. Brown leather shoes with a bar, £7 10s.

If you want to keep ahead in 1970 you will have something brown and white in your wardrobe. Biba and 19 put their heads together and chose -chocolate brown and stark white as the smartest colours for the spring. Teamed together they make a stunning combination—classic colours cut in that special Biba way to make a head-turning impact. For those in need of something a little bit special to wear at night, take a good look at Biba’s super long satin coat in liquid chocolate brown — designed to be worn over trousers, a dress or just by itself. It’s well worth the money if you go out often enough to warrant an evening coat. Biba goes long again for the spring with a feeling reminiscent of the early 1900s when ladies wore ankle-length skirts,. large picture hats with feathers, plumes and lots of net. We’re in favour of 1970 being a romantic year, and if you agree with us, then Biba’s the shop for you —124-126 Kensington High Street, London, W.8.

Wonderful not only to see Peccinotti’s beautiful photos of Barbara’s beautiful clothes, but a rare and special insight into the lesser-seen Biba number 3 in Kensington High Street (post-Church Street and pre-Derry and Toms). I’m not sure this will ever stop being one of my favourite aesthetics.

Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, March 1970.

Brown satin evening coat, 12gns. Brown leather bar shoes, £7 10s. Choker, 30s. Scarf from their selection. Veiling, 3s.11d. a yard.
Brown/white Flanestra button-through dress, 6gns. Matching hat, 30s. Brown leather bar shoes, £7 10s. All prices are approximate.
Floor-length white crêpe coat with full sleeves, and matching trousers, 9gns. the set. White crêpe scarf from their selection.
Brown crêpe long fitted jacket with matching buttons, and wide-cut trousers, £5 19s.6d. Matching helmet, 30s. Spectacles, 32s.6d.
White linen suit with an ankle-length skirt, £7 10s. Matching hat, 30s. Beige fishnet tights, 14s.11d. Veiling over face, 3s.11d. a yard.

Why your clothes cost so much

1970s, airbrushing, biba, cosmopolitan, Illustrations, philip castle
“We all know prices are spiralling. You don’t need to study statistics to realise that your winter coat has cost you more, that sweaters, skirts, shoes and bags are now major investments. But why? And why so suddenly? “I remember when you could buy…” is no longer the prerogative of the middle aged reminiscing on lost youth. I remember when you could still buy a dress in Biba for just over £2, and, what’s more, I still wear it.”

A typically brilliant Philip Castle illustration to accompany an article by Shirley Flack on inflation and the effect on clothes prices at the time. Sounds familiar, doesn’t it? Although I would kill for the quality you were getting for your inflated prices in 1974. And, naturally, I always recommend shopping second hand anyway!

Illustration by Philip Castle.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, January 1974.

Veiled lady, Garbo-style

1970s, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, barry lategan, biba, Inspirational Images, Make-up, pablo and delia, Vogue
A boa of black and white feathers, made especially for Vogue by Pablo & Delia, with make-up by Biba.

Photographed by Barry Lategan.

Scanned from Vogue, December 1970.

Kissin’ Cousins

1970s, alice springs, Anne Tyrrell, aquascutum, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, biba, Borg, Butler & Wilson, C&A, Chi Chi, cosmopolitan, crowthers, Deirdre McSharry, Diane Logan, Elle, Henry Lehr, Inspirational Images, jean varon, john bates, just men, marie france, medusa, miss mouse, ossie clark, quorum, Reldan, ritva, Sacha, Sujon, Vintage Editorials, Weathergay
Pink and wild coat is hooded and all set to trap the unwary male. Borg coat by Henry Lehr, £17.50, trousers by Sujon, £9.50. His coat by C & A in suedette, £13.95. Hat by Locke, £5.25.

. . . or how to wear furs this winter without hurting your pet’s feelings.

There is nothing, absolute nothing quite like wrapping yourself in fur. As a sensuous experience, it is in the same class as a new love, old champagne or fresh truffles. But even the most hedonistic of women are relieved that the threatened species are no longer imported. Snow leopards, tigers and other cats can go their own way and sensibly sybaritic female will look for furs that are farmed, such as fox and mink. This winter, too, the fakes are so wayout and wildly coloured that only a girl without a heart could resist their charms, albeit synthetic. Perhaps that’s why the fur trade have taken the hint and dipped their favourite fox pelts in the dye pot, Furrier Maxwell Croft offers his explanation of the female urge to wear and the male urge to bestow furs: “For many men it is a primitive desire to see his woman in furs.”. Very nice, too.

Plenty to scoff at the end of the copy there, but oh goodness the clothes – the clothes! And the glorious photography of Alice Springs, whose work doesn’t turn up nearly enough for my liking.

Fashion by Deirdre McSharry.

Photographed by Alice Springs.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, November 1972.

Kissin’ cousin to a polar bear, but lots slimmer, is this smashing white shaggy coat. Wear it with white flannel bags, an angora sweater and an even shaggier hat. Well-cut coat in Borg with stitched suede edges. By Marie France for Quorum, £36, Ossie Clark trousers £14, sweater £4. Hat by Diane Logan, £5, shoes from Sacha £7.99. Beads by Butler and Wilson. Mike’s coat from Just Men, £70. Trousers from Aquascutum, £14.50.
The shaggiest coat story of the season-outrageous powder pink number, worn over pink striped sweater and pleated skirt. The dog is also fake, Chi Chi’s own and christened Fifi by Mike. Borg coat by Biba, £15, sweater by Reldan £3.33, skirt by Crowthers £5.75. Beads by Loewe.
Chi Chi turns her back on the world in scooped dress by John Bates for Jean Varon, £22. White shaggy jacket in Lister’s synthetic, £13.75 by Weathergay. Photographed at Julie’s Restaurant, 135 Portland Rd, London W11 (01-22) 8331).
How to have that movie-star feeling. If you want the big star treatment – breakfast at Tiffany’s, diamonds as big as the Ritz – dress like a star in electric blue fox. Dress by Elle, £15. Fox coat by Dinni for Femina Furs, £295. Moonstone necklace at Butler and Wilson. His outfit by Aquascutum. Velvet jacket £38.50, shirt £10.50, cuff links from £3 50, trousers £12.50
Tea for two. Mike makes up to Chi Chi (that’s the model girl, not the coat) in her shaggy yellow number, worn with shiny striped shirt and mustard bags. Borg coat by Marie France for Quorum £23.50, shirt by Medusa £5.50, trousers by Sujon £9.50. Beads by Butler and Wilson. Photographed at The Royal Garden Hotel, London.
Enough to drive a man wild-a nutty fake fur, above right, with Fifties shoulders and swing back. Wear it nicely over mustard crêpe de chine shirt and peg-top trousers. Both by Sujon, shirt £13, trousers £9.50. Borg coat by Biba £25, beret, Diane Logan, £4.50, shoes, Sacha, £7.99. His coat, Aquascutum, £70, trousers C & A £3 95.
Enough to make Morgan the gorilla, jealous. (Remember A Suitable Case For Treatment?) Emerald green gorilla jacket in real-life Borg by Weathergay, £9.50 (right). Worn over slinky knit sweater and skirt from Ritva, £27 for the outfit. Blue shaggy beret by Diane Logan, £4.50. Mike’s sweater in blue and silver by Ritva, £18.50. Trousers from C & A £5.50.
Jealous cats show their ruffled furs. Chi Chi and Belinda act out the classic movie-star confrontation in their sequins and furs, Chi Chi in pleated taffeta with sequin bodice by Anne Tyrell for John Marks, £23.95; her boa is silver fox, ranch bred, price £70. Belinda’s fox is red, also from the ranch, price £45, both by Barbara Warner for Fab Furs. Strapless top and trousers by Miss Mouse, £20. Beads by Loewe.