Black felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Black Courtelle blazer, long and lean with slightly padded shoulders, low wide lapels and plain white buttons, by Tony Berkeley, 10gns. Oxford bag-style Courtelle trousers with turn-ups, in black, rust and creamy beige, by Tony Berkeley, 6gns. Conker brown leather brogues, by Sacha, £7 19s.6d. Tapestry bag, from Biba, £5 10s. Snake-print luggage also from a selection at Biba.
Autumn clothes are now beginning to filter into the shops, and we must admit that this year’s crop is better than ever. The best of last season’s shapes remain with us—long, lean, fitted coats and jackets, midi length skirts and Oxford bags with turn-ups. The new lines are more startling, and heavily influenced by the ‘Forties. Shoulders are squared off, coats have Joan Crawford swagger backs or are shaped in at the waist with a single-button fastening. All hems cover the knee, and to be seen in a mini is almost sacrilegious now. Gaucho pants and knickerbockers are the new look for legs, and blouses with soft revers and yokes are back in vogue, worn with soft collars outside. Colours are black, brown, rust and cream, or a mixture of the four in plaids and jacquards. Shoes are becoming much finer with the exception of brogues and shoes with ankle straps. Large, soft leather shoulder bags are the perfect shape to complete the picture.
Photographed by Michael Berkofsky.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, August 1970.
Black felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Courtelle swagger coat in black, rust and creamy beige, has a deep inverted pleat in the back, is fastened with plain white buttons, from Tony Berkeley, 13g ns. Brown leather brogues, by Sacha, £7 19s.6d. Black tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Bag, by Avril Gordon, £10. Tapestry bag, by Biba, £5 10s. Luggage, from Biba, 6gns. to £6 10s.
Soft felt khaki-coloured hat, by Herbert Johnson, 7gns. Black wool dress embroidered at waist and cuffs, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £14 9s. Black lace-up shoes, from Anello and Davide, 75s. Tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Brown bag, by Avril Gordon, £8. Brown felt hat, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Black wool dress with a split skirt is trimmed with heart-shaped buttons, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £14 2s. Black suede belt with brown clasp, by The Wild Mustang Co., 65s. Beads, from Biba, 63s.
Brown felt hat trimmed with leather thongs, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Cream crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Brown jersey knicker-bocker suit with the jacket cut like a shirt, and matching tie belt, from Frocks By Post, £6 19s.6d. Brown suede brogues, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Brown sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Beige felt hat, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Black crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Midi-length beige cardigan coat narrow cut with a top stitched yoke and matching trousers, from Frocks By Post, £9 19s.6d. Brogues by Sacha, 8gns.
Beige felt hat with a leather thong trim, by J.C.Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Black wool long-sleeved dress is button-through at back and has a matching belt, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £14 9s. Black leather shoes, by Anello and Davide, 75s. Black sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Brown suede and patent leather shoulder bag, by Avril Gordon, £10. Black felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Black crêpe long-sleeved blouse, 5gns. Slim-fitting Courtelle jacket in black, rust and creamy beige with patch pockets, 71/2 gns. Black Courtelle Gaucho trousers with turn-ups, 90s. All by Tony Berkeley. Grey patent lace-up shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Black tights from a selection at Fenwicks.
Beige felt cloche hat from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Creamy crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Long lean acrylic and wool jacket in grey and black, £7 15s., matching skirt, 85s. Both by Alistair Cowin for Grade One. Brown suede brogues, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Bag, from Biba, £5 19s.6d. Black crêpe blouse, by Tony Berkeley, 5gns. Acrylic and wool pinafore dress in grey and black, by Alistair Cowin for Grade One, £6 10s. Black shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Patent leather shoulder bag by Avril Gordon, £8. Luggage from a selection at Biba.
Beige crochet hat, from Fenwicks, 25s. Black crêpe blouse, 5gns. Courtelle pinafore dress in black, rust and creamy beige, £6 105. Slim-fitting black Courtelle coat has wide lapels and fastens with one white button at the waist, 13gns. All by Tony Berkeley. Black T-bar leather shoes, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Black sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Long brown chiffon scarf, 10s. Brown tortoiseshell clip, 4s.6d. Both from Fenwicks.
Brown felt hat, by J.C. Brosseau from Feathers, 84s. Cream crêpe dress is gather-ed from a wide yoke and has a belt in suede, by Mary Quant’s Ginger Group, £13 15s. Brown suede brogues with fringed tongue, by Mary Quant, £4 19s.11d. Brown sheer tights from a selection at Fenwicks. Patent leather bag, by Avril Gordon, 8gns. Snakeprint suitcase, from Biba, £6 10s.
Velvet in various guises tunic, Clobber; trousers and suede belt, Feathers; hat, Malyard; lace-up boots, Chelsea Cobbler; neckband, Vivvy at Kensington Antique Market.
Crushed velvet again, sliced into a clean Seventies shape, narrow and knickerbockered but with lace-ruffled sleeves for the right touch of contrary nostalgia. By Polly Peck. Bugle-bead embroidered butterflies on brocade choker from The Purple Shop, Chelsea Antique Market. Child’s midi culotte dress by Just Jon.
Because it’s Christmas. Give yourself time. Time for you and those you love. Time to remember a neglected relative with a telephone call, a lonely neighbour with a visit more meaningful than the automatic instant greeting card. Time too, to think of perfect strangers in other countries, struggling against hardships we can barely imagine. Could be this is the time when a donation to one of those organisations which try to help is truly the spirit of Christmas, A spontaneous flowing of compassion and care from the unknown to the unknown.
Photographed by Frank Horvat.
Scanned from Vanity Fair, December 1970.
Velvet, crushed for texture, so right in brown, turned into a curvy gaucho suit by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey. Perfect, amusing accessory— Biba’s boa from, of course, turkey feathers!
Long, serene, thoughtful dress by Young Jaeger in chestnut and purple printed panne velvet. Wide, full sleeves collected tightly at the wrist, soft, graceful skirt belted at the waist with a wide brown suede appliqued belt from Feathers.
Red hat in soft felt, from Feathers, 40s. Short crossover woollen top with navy trim has short sleeves, by Anne Cossins for Mr. Freedom, 6gns. Plain black jersey midi skirt, by Stirling Cooper, 90s. Blue and red choker, from Fenwicks, 10s.
Beautiful and gay knits are 19’s answer for post-summer blues; dazzling bright and eye-catching in an array of primary colours. The styles are the simplest possible—tiny tops with cross-over fronts and, for those who prefer the classic, pullovers in cleverly co-ordinated stripes. This style of knitwear is best worn with toning jersey skirts, preferably in a midi length, and trousers. To complete the kaleidoscope look, add brightly coloured shoes, stockings, a scarf or a choker.
Photographed by John Stember.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, October 1970.
Black crochet hat, by Sally Levison Originals, 65s. Short crossover pullover in bright colours has short black sleeves trimmed with red, by Anne Cossins for Mr. Freedom, 6gns. Black jersey skirt fastened up the side with metal buttons, by Stirling Cooper, £6. Black crochet choker, from Fenwicks, 15s.
Multi-coloured striped woollen pullover has long sleeves, 75s. Bright red jersey skirt, 90s. Both by Stirling Cooper. Black tights, by Mary Quant, 15s. Red leather bar shoes, by Anello and Davide, 58s.6d. Black woollen long-line pullover has red, blue and yellow stripes round the waist and elbow, 70s. Yellow jersey skirt, 90s. Both by Stirling Cooper. Bright red tights, by Mary Quant, 15s. Lime green bar shoes, by Anello and Davide, 58s.6d.
Bright blue and yellow vest-style woollen pullover has long sleeves and fastens with tiny buttons at neck, 70s. Bright red pants, 89s.6d. Both by Stirling Cooper. Buttercup yellow pullover with red trim has square neckline and short sleeves, 60s. Bright red jersey pants, £4 19s.6d. Both by Stirling Cooper.
Black, red and yellow short-sleeved pullover has a polo neckline, 75s. Black jersey, button-through skirt, £6. Both by Stirling Cooper. Red and blue woollen pullover has long sleeves which are trimmed with buttons, 75s. Plain black jersey midi skirt, 90s. Both by Stirling Cooper. Long blue silk scarf printed over with flowers, from a selection at Rosie Nice in Kensington Market.
Striped woollen pullover, by Anne Cossins for Mr. Freedom, 6gns. Vivid green skirt jersey, by Stirling Cooper, 90s. Tights, by Mary Quant, 18s.11d. Shoes, by Anello and Davide, 58s.6d.
Fine knit polo-neck pullover with long sleeves worn with matching knit trousers in tones of beige, with red and yellow stripes, by Pourelle, 14gns
Woollen long-sleeved pullover has stripes in yellow, green, blue, red and purple, by Anne Cossins for Mr. Freedom, 6gns. Navy blue jersey knickerbockers, from Just Looking, 5gns.
Light and dark grey pull-on woollen knit hat. Light grey pullover has polo neck and long sleeves. Sleeve-less pullover worn on top is in two-tone grey and has a rounded neckline. Matching midi skirt. 28gns. the set. All by Pourelle. Black leather boots with hooks and laces, by Dolcis, £10 19s. Black crochet hat, by Sally Levison Originals, 65s. Purple and lilac finely knit woollen pullover has matching midi skirt, by Pourelle, £18. Black tights, by Elbeo, 12s.11d.
Striped hat. ochre-coloured finely ribbed pullover and matching midi skirt with diagonal stripes in plum, purple, orange and ochre, 17gns. the set. All by Pourelle. Black leather boots with hooks and laces, by Dolcis, £10 19s.
Left: Winceyette dress, Mary Quant, £14,15. Miss Selfridge. Hat, Britannia Land of Plenty. Quant tights, 75p. Ankle boots, Anello & Davide, £7.75. Far left: Top, Richard Green, £4.75. Way In. Wool pants, Mary Quant £6.60, Simpsons, W1. Hat, Diane Logan, £4.50. Quant tights, £1.50. Clogs, £5.99 Leicester Shoes at Up West, W1. (Inset: Winceyette dungarees, Gordon King, £7.54, Irvine Sellers. Cardigan Marshall London £4.50, Guys and Dolls. Beret, Kangol £1.40. Biba bracelet. Quant angora sox, 50p. Clogs £5.99, Leicester Shoes. Tom & Jerry dress, Travers Tempos, £5.90. Dickins and Jones, WI. Hat, Feathers, £6.50. Quant sox 50p. Slingback flatties, Bata, £7.99).
Winceyette steps gently from bedtime to daytime with a magic story to tell about dungarees and smocks, dresses and skirts. The prints are childlike, the colours soft and while they conjure up memories of long-ago nurseries they will make you everything that is adult and feminine.
Photographs taken at Pollock’s Toy Museum, Scala St., W1
Fashion by Marcia Brackett.
Photographed by John Carter.
Scanned from Petticoat, 12th August 1972.
House print smock top, Jeff Banks, £10, Fenwicks, W1. Wool pants, Mary Quant, £6.60. Simpsons W1. Hair comb, tailpieces 25p. Bilbo calf boots £9. Long winceyette skirt with kitten hem, Gordon King, £5.45 at Miss Selfridge. Airplane top, Maggi of London £4.30, at all branches of Snob. Pull-on hat Feathers. Angora sox Quant, 50p. Leather slip-ons, Samm, £8.95.
Striped top in winceyette with batwing sleeves, Dranella, £6.85 and pants, £7.10 at Miss Selfridge, W1. Scarf, £1 at Van der Fransen. Suede clogs, £4.99, Leicester shoes, Up West, Wl. Winceyette floral top, Traver Tempos 15.90, Sidney Smith, SW3. Wool Oxford bags Richard Green, £5.90, Way In. Necklace, Paul Stephens. Biba Bracelet, Edward Mann angora pull-on hat £2.60. Biba shoes £6.20.
Winceyette teddy print smock and matching skirt, Travers Tempos, £4.50 each at Sidney Smith SW3. Necklace from Britannia Land of Plenty SW3. Hair combs, Tailpieces 25p. Mary Quant shoes. Teddy pants and panelled top, Travers Tempos £8.50 at Sidney Smith SW3. Felt bowler Edward Mann £2.80. Swan brooch Britannia Land of Plenty.
Winceyette pyjama top, £6.60 and pants, £6.60 with kitten trim, Gordon King, Miss Selfridge, Quant sox, 50p. Hair slides, Tailpieces, 10p. Jersey dress with floral panels in winceyette, Gillian Richard, £8 at Way In. Quant wool tights £1.50. Bilbo midi boots, £9.
Felt hat. by Jean-Charles Brosseau from Feathers, £5.75 (£5 15s.). Crêpe shirt. by Jeff Banks. £6.30 (6gns.). Natural calico blazer has yellow braid edging and matching shorts, by Wallis, £7.95 (£7 19s.). Tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. (15s.). Artificial flowers from a selection at John Lewis. Photographed at the Purple Shop, Antiquarius, 153 Kings Road, London, S.W.3.
Yves St. Laurent’s ‘Blast From The Past’ award is taken by the blazer. Fashioned a la Dietrich, casual but smart, it looks especially good with shorts, hot-coloured tights and long knee-socks, or pleated skirts. The best choice is plain white, black or red; or hot checks and stripes.
A superb editorial, giving us an insight into the short-lived but legendary Hollywood Clothes Shop and The Purple Shop in Antiquarius (which I feel like I’m regularly crediting in other posts on here) and also designer David Mellor’s shop. It also has the unusual element of every price being given in new and old money – with decimalisation having been introduced in February of the same year. I’m surprised I don’t see this a lot more in editorials from 1971.
Modelled by Sue Baloo
Styled by Norma Moriceau.
Photographed by Michael Berkofsky.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, May 1971.
Denim hat, by Jean-Charles Brosseau from Feathers, £6. Cotton shirt in browns and blues, by Jasper, £4.48 (89s.7d.). ‘Forties’ rayon hopsack blazer, double-breasted with Square padded shoulders and two large pockets, matching shorts with turn-ups (sold as a three-piece with trousers), by Shubette, £13.95 (£13 19s.). Green tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. (15s.). White Orlon socks, by Sunarama, 59p. (11s.10d.). Blue mules with white thonging, by Ravel, £3.75 (75s.). Pretend watch-brooch from Universal Witness, 50p. (10s.). Photographed outside Green’s of Chelsea, fruiterer and florist.
Brown felt hat, by Jean-Charles Brosseau from Feathers, £5.75 (£5 15s.). Canary yellow cotton jersey shirt, £3.20 (64s.). Multi-coloured random striped cotton jersey vest, £1.38 (27s.7d.). Both by Erica Budd. Wine jersey blazer edged in turquoise, with turquoise shorts, by Clobber, £10. Blue over-the-knee socks, from Fenwicks, 50p. (10s.). Doggie brooch, from Universal Witness, 50p. (10s.). Ribbon on hat, from a selection at John Lewis. Photographed at the Hollywood Clothes Shop.
Felt hat by Feathers, £5.75 (£5 15s) Red jersey shirt with elasticised waist, £5.95 (£5 19s). Navy knitted cotton vest with red trim, £1.75 (35s). Madras cotton blazer, £9.50 (£9 10s). Shorts, £4.45 (£4 9s). All by Lee Bender for Bus Stop. Tights by Mary Quant, 75p (15s). Peep-toes by Ravel, £5.99 (£5 19s 10d).
Straw hat, from Biba, £1.25 (25s.). Spotted cotton voile shirt in red, yellow, blue and green, by Simon Ellis, £4.25 (85s.). Single-breasted blazer and shorts suit in black givreine, from Biba, £9.75 (£9 15s.). Sheer black tights, from Biba, 54 ½p. (10s.11d.). Crêpe scarf, from Biba, £2. Artificial flowers, from Biba, £1.05 (1gn.). Photographed at David Mellor, Ironmonger, London, S.W.1.
Brown felt hat, from Feathers, £5.75 (£5 15s.). Cotton oatmeal shirt, by Jasper, £3.98 (79s.7d.). Checked waistcoat in shades of tan with rust stripes, £5.25 (5gns.). Shorts, £5.25 (5gns.). Matching single-breasted tan blazer in washable Telenka with flap patch-pockets and belt, £10. All by Gladrags. Brown tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. (15s.). Long rust socks, from Feathers, £1.50 (30s.). Suede wedge shoes, by Ravel, £4.50 (90s.). Bright green satchel, by Baggage and General Holding Co. Ltd., £1.50 (30s.).
Denim hat, by Jean-Charles Brosseau from Feathers, £6. Spotted blouse, from a selec-tion at Van Der Fransen. Single-breasted rayon blazer suit by Elgee, jacket in blue and beige checks on white has padded shoulders and flap pockets, and comes with either plain white or matching shorts, 2_15.75 (15anq Navy tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. (15s.). White Orlon over-the-knee socks, by Sunarama, 59p. (11s.10d.). Navy mules, from Ravel, £3.75 (75s.). Pretend watch-brooch from Universal Witness, 50p. (10s.). Photographed at Parsons, Fulham Road, London, S.W.10.
Navy denim hat, by Jean-Charles Brosseau from Feathers, £5.75 (£5 15s.). Red cotton jersey shirt, £5.95 (£5 19s.). Red, navy and white jersey vest with side button fastening, £2.50 (50s.). White bonded jersey blazer, £7. Navy jersey shorts, £3.75 (75s.). All by Lee Bender for Bus Stop. Navy socks, from Fenwicks, 50p. (10s.). White sandals with cork soles from Ravel, £4.50 (90s.).
Three Boyds on the wing, above. Three sisters from Devon. Paula, 19, in skirt and jerkin of red and grass green mixed up cotton prints. £15, by Foale & Tuffin, at Feathers. White voile shirt, by Leslie Poole, £5, at Countdown. Thea Porter bead and velvet choker. Patti, 25, Mrs George Harrison, in peasant dress, green butterfly chiffon, £50. Afghan choker, £16. Both at Thea Porter, 8 Greek St, W.1. Jenny, 22, in red and green calico flower appliqué skirt. 110, at The Sweetshop, 28 Blantyre St, S.W.10. Thea Porter white shirt.
Rusty suede scalloped and sewn with ink painted daisies. Excellent small cap-shouldered jerkin of the same. By Tuttabankem at Boston-151. Suede by Gomshall Tanneries. Lurid lurex striped t-shirt by Mr Freedom. Feathered butterfly at Zwarts. / Maroon suede jeans shorts on bib and strap by Beged-Or at Debenham & Freebody. Neon panne velvet t-shirt, ice cream cone pin and tights at Mr Freedom. Zany felt patchwork hats at Feathers. Two-tone suede shoes at Rowley & Oram.
Blue skies, fresh air, freewheeling and summer suede shorts. This way.
Unusually for Vogue, this spread doesn’t credit a photographer. It also credits those amazing shoes to Rowley and Oram, who stocked Terry de Havilland’s shoes, so I suspect that they are by him as well.
Tissavel-lined Galaxy coat by Beged’Or approx. £50; cotton blouse by Mexicana, £13; fur fabric jeans by Newmans, 12 gns; hairy slipper boots at Russell & Bromley, £6 19s; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s; hatband made from an Estonian tie at the Russian Shop, 7s 6d; fur bag at The Souk, £3 5s; wool gloves at Dickins & Jones, 10s:
Leather and fur get more expensive every year. It’s not only the taxes and rising costs of production. It’s just that there aren’t enough good animal skins for leather around to meet the consumer demand. Furs are there in quantity for the fabulously rich. Luckily a good substitute has been found – the nylon-spun, man-made sort. Some, especially in the leather field, are so like the real thing the only way you can tell the difference is by the smell. Take the white coat on pages 46 and 47. It’s fake and costs about £50. It has a double in real fur and leather for £270. Made by the same people who have duplicated most of their collection this way and it takes an eagle eye and nose to tell the difference. Others are just furry, woolly fabrics, obviously not imitating some four-legged friend, which is one of the nicest things about them. This fur fabric is now getting the treatment it deserves. Nairn Williamson (more famous for their Vinyl floor and wall coverings) were the first to see its potential and got six designers to use their Velmar fur fabric in their winter collections. Jane Whiteside for Stirling Cooper (new label getting famous fast for their beautiful jersey co-ordinates) was the cleverest of them all. She used the best sludgy colours, mixed it with needlecord to make a group of jackets and coats to go with trousers, skirts and blouses. Borg (American originated and the pioneers in England of this deep pile fabric) has been around for a long time, mostly on the inside of duffle and raincoats but it’s on the outside as a normal fabric that it looks its best. Next winter there will be a lot more of it around, now that designers are getting less snobby about plastics. Not only is it as warm as fur, it is, of course, much cheaper and you don’t smell like a wet dog when you come in from the rain, either. So you can wear it herding sheep on lost weekends, or in town queuing for the cinema without any guilt feelings about ruining your assets.
Insert obligatory ‘I don’t agree with the thrust of the argument for fake furs as just a financial consideration here’ caveat from me, your content provider. Don’t shout at me, basically. But it’s an interesting insight into the mindset of 1970, and the proliferation of fake furs and skins at that time. It’s also a breathtakingly styled and photographed work of art from Caroline Baker and Jonvelle.
Fashion by Caroline Baker.
Photographed by Jonvelle.
Scanned from Nova, January 1970.
Mediaeval velvet applique dress by Laura Jamieson at The Sweetshop, 20 gns; Tissavel and Galaxy waistcoat by Beged’Or, £22.
Velmar jacket and needlecord trousers by Stirling Cooper, £8 10s., £5 1Gs; leggings by Chelsea Cobbler, to order, 10 gns; cotton shirt from selection at Dada, Kensington Antique Market from 2 gns.
Acrilan jacket by Lizzie Carr approx. 24 gns; suede trousers by Morel, 17 gns, tied with leather strips from John Lewis Haberdashery Dept, 1s 10d per yard; wellingtons at Russell and Bromley, £3 19s; woven sash wrapped around neck at Herbert Johnson, 25s; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s; wool gloves at Selfridges, &s 11d
Velmar and Courtelle trousers by Martha Hill, approx. 8 gns; poncho at Peter Robinson, £7; wool shirt by Stirling Cooper, £4 5s; studded wristlet by Knees at Kensington Antique Market, 1 gn; suede moccasin boots by Anello & Davide, £8 15s; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s; sheepskin rug from The Souk from £3 19s 6d to £6; flask from Kensington Antique Market.
Velmar fur fabric floor length coat trimmed with canvas by Mog, £20, over long cotton nightgown by Laura Ashley, £5; knitted wool socks at Feathers, £1 1s 6d
Velmar coat with needlecord and zipper trims (top left) by Stirling Cooper, 18 gns; pale suede and leather lace-up boots by Kurt Geiger, 35 gns; wool gloves at Selfridges, 8s 11d; leather belt by The Wild Mustang Manufacturing Co., approx. £3 12s 6d; fur shepherdess hat, bag and drinking flask from a selection at Kensington Antique Market
Velmar jacket and needlecord trousers (top right) by Stirling Cooper, £12 19s 6d, £5 10s; big polo-neck ribbed Shetland wool sweater at Aquascutum, £6 15s; corrugated leather lace-up boots at Russell and Bromley, £29 19s; knitted Aran mitts at Selfridges, 16s 11d; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s, furry bag from a selection at Kensington Antique Market.
Liz Eggleston 