A hint of Kimono – with long flowing sleeves sweeping to a point and a matching waist band. Around the shoulders a beautiful flowing gossamer echarpe with a stunning hand printed Japanese figurine recalling the eastern promise. Dress exclusively designed by Hawker & Walker, hand stitched -with pearl beading neck line – using exclusively hand printed silk designed by Chapple Hamlin-Wright.
Hawker & Walker, Chapple Hamlin-Wright and Papillon are all new names on me and only Hamlin-Wright has showed up any trace on my initial searches. So do get in touch if you know any more!
Take a scarf (at least 48″ long) and tie it across your bust with a knot at the back. Take another long thin scarf (at least 68″) and then wind once round neck, taking the two ends across from back of neck, under arms and winding round first scarf, tying at back. Pin a brooch on first scarf in middle to gather together. Enamel brooch £4 from Butler & Wilson.
And wind it round yourself, fix it with clever knots and little rings, and you’ve got yourself the most baring and daring top of all – a boob tube. Then, when the summer’s over you can untie all the knots and put the rings back on your fingers and you’ve still got a scarf left at the end of it all.
Photographed by Dick Polak.
Scanned from Honey, August 1972.
Find a triangular piece of material like cotton jersey or stretchy towelling which measures 42″ along the bottom and 28″ along each side, and turn over the top corner about 2-. Pin or sew to make a loop. You’ll need to hem the edges if it’s likely to fray. Thread a piece of tape or a long bootlace through the pinned corner and tie round your neck in a bow at the back. Take the bottom two corners and tie in a knot at the back. Antique necklace £3.50, carved ivory bangle £4 both from Butler & Wilson.
You’ll need a scarf about 68″ by 8″. Fold over a third of width so that it easily covers bust. Wind straight across bust and cross over at the back. Take the two ends, bring them up over your shoulders (you may need some help here !) and pin inside the horizontal piece at the front to make a square necked top. Scarf, Lida Ascher boutique £5.20.
Take a long thin scarf (again !) and thread it through a small plastic ring; tie the scarf across your bust with the ring in the middle at the front and knot at the back. Thread a long bootlace or a two-foot-long piece of tape through the ring and tie at the back of your neck in a bow. Long silk scarf, Fenwicks £1.40; cut-out bangle, Butler & Wilson £3. Plastic bangles, Paul Stephens 10p.
Take a scarf measuring at least 68″ but preferably 80″ and then tie two knots, one 12″ each side of the centre of the scarf. With the centre of the scarf at the back of your neck, cross the scarf over at the front, with the two knots in the middle of your chest. Thread the ends through a ring or secure the knots side by side with a pin and tie the ends at the back with a knot. Double silk scarf about 68″ long from Lida Ascher boutique, £4.75.
Ready-made halter-neck top, £1.50 from Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, W1, mail order 20p extra. Flowery plastic antique brooch Butler & Wilson £1.75.
SEXY cut-away cotton knitted halter-neck top, Crochetta, £4, from Knits and Leathers, 5, Harewood Place, W1 and 2, Carnaby Court, Carnaby Street, W1; flaring jet black crêpe high-waisted trousers, Ossie Clark for Quorum, £10, from Quorum, Radnor Walk, SW3; flamboyant flocked canvas shoes, Chelsea Cobbler, £11.95; “Shady Lady” straw hat, Buckle Under, £7; carved rose bangle, Butler and Wilson, £5.50; artificial rose, Biba, £1.15.
Long languid shapes, tiny halter necks and easy voluminous trousers. Shades of 30s tea dances and glorious afternoons lounging amongst the hothouse palms in clothes that make you feel every inch a lady while keeping you cool on the hottest day.
Photographed by Richard Selby.
Scanned from Honey, July 1972.
LEFT: Sensuous halter-neck cotton vincel cross-over top, Lizzie Carr at Plain Clothes, £3.95. Slinky emerald green Tricel jersey trousers, £5, from Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, Wl, mail order 25p extra. Antique flower-garland brooch, £5.50; ivory clutch bangle, £4.50; mottled horn elasticated bracelet, £4, all by Butler & Wilson; enamel flower brooch, Biba, 75p; peep-toe shoes, Bilbo, £7; daisy-clipped shoulder bag, Cingula, approx £9. RIGHT: Tightly ruched cotton striped top, Richard Green, £3.10. White Tricel mesh trousers, £4.50, from Martha Hill. Spotted-bow shoes, Sacha, £7.99; straw boater, Edward Mann, £1.90; bangles, Adrien Mann, 25p each.
ULTRY poppy red and white glazed-cotton top, £3.95, from Stirling Cooper, Wigmore Street, W1. Pure white Tricel trousers with self-patterned border, £5, from Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, Wl, mail order 25p extra. Scarlet silk sash, Jacqmar, approx £3; black and orange genuine Art Deco necklace, Butler & Wilson, £10; crimson straw hat, Bermona, £1.35.
LEFT: Wrapover covered-up cotton-jersey top, Richard Green, £4. Well-cut flared cotton-gaberdine high-waisted trousers, Ossie Clark, £9, from Quorum, Radnor Walk, SW3. Enormous straw hat, Edward Mann, £2.80; artificial rose from Dickins & Jones, 90p; mother-of-pearl tulip brooch, £4.50, elasticated horn bracelet, £4, both by Butler & Wilson. RIGHT: Plunging candy-striped cotton top, Richard Green, £2.50. Milk white cotton-gabardine Oxford bags, Sujon, £6. Sugar pink floppy straw hat, Bermona, £1.35; carved ivory elasticated bracelet, Butler & Wilson, £4.50.
SENSUOUS backless all-in-one suit with crimson and white striped cotton top and plain wide white trousers, Sheridan Barnett at Simon Massey, £8.50. Wide scarlet straw hat, Buckle Under, £7; ivory beads, Butler & Wilson, £5.50; bright red poppy, Biba, 90p; pink plastic bluebell bracelet, Adrien Mann, 75p.
LEFT: Spotted cotton baggy trousers, Stirling Cooper £7.95. White cotton boned sun top John Craig £3.50. Cornflower blue shirt with wide turnback sleeves, John Craig £5.50; bobble bead necklace, Corocraft £1-25. RIGHT: Baggy white trousers, Stirling Cooper £9.95. Loose cotton shirt with American Bowling Print design or back, Inega £6.95. Pull-on hat, Edward Mann £2.70; twirly plastic bangle 25p, and thick blue marble bangle 45p, both by Corocraft; shoes, Samm £8.99.
Cotton jackets and blouses, comfortable baggy trousers, skimpy bareback sun tops and neat knee-length shorts. Team them up with saucy felt berets and rope-soled espadrilles —wear them anywhere (or on the prom).
A glorious recreation of 1930s photographs by the late great Mike Berkofsky, but we all know those pups are the real stars of the show!
Photographed by Mike Berkofsky.
Scanned from Honey, May 1974.
LEFT: Striped cotton blouse, Stirling Cooper £6.95, from Ronnie Stirling. High-waisted trousers, Shelana £8.95. Thin patent leather belt, Gay Designs £1.50; authentic sailor’s cap, Lawrence Corner 44p; espadrilles, Samm £3.99. RIGHT: Finely striped jersey halter-neck T-shirt £2.95, and matching cardigan jacket £5.95, both by Bus Stop. Shantung linen Oxford bags, Martha Hill £8.50. Original 40’s canvas percher hat, to hire from Diane Logan.
LEFT: Swirling striped cotton skirt with elasticised waist £15.95, loose white cotton blouse with pintucked front £5.95, both by Stirling Cooper. Sailing ship brooch, Butler & Wilson £2; canvas peep-toe wedge-heeled espadrilles, Chelsea Cobbler £9.99; natural straw hat, Diane Logan £10; denim umbrella, Crocker & Wilson £10-50. RIGHT: White cotton trousers, Jackie Ross at Jon Elliot £9-50. Spotted cotton halter-neck top with rope ties £4, and matching jacket £10.75, both by Diana Doe at Carr Jones. Leather rope-soled espadrilles with ruched front, Samm £8-99. Sunglasses from a selection at Bombacha £2.
Sky blue double-breasted Trevira jacket with shawl collar £6.75, and matching Oxford bags £5.50, both by Spectrum. White cotton piqué fitted halter-neck sun top with buttoned back, Miss Mouse £6.50. Brown and white striped umbrella, Crocker & Wilson £14.50.
Cornflower blue cotton jersey halter-neck top with daisy motif, Tabu £4.90. Cream gaberdine shorts, Tuttabankem £12.50. Silky fine knit cardigan with embroidered pockets from a selection at Bombacha. Blue felt beret, Kangol £1.50. Thin scarlet belt, Peter Robinson 55p. Royal blue canvas wedge-heeled peep-toe espadrilles, Chelsea Cobbler £9.99. Men’s clothes: Striped blazers from £23.50, and Panama hats £1.30, both from Simpsons, Piccadilly, W1. Double-breasted white jersey knit suit £40, striped cotton shirts £7.95, and white bags from £5, all from Bugatti, Kensington Church Street, W8. Black and white correspondent shoes, £12.75 from Anello & Davide, 33 Oxford Street, W1. Brown and cream correspondent shoes, £24.99 from Russell & Bromley. Hair by Trevor at Ricci Burns.
White linen tie-waisted jacket with wide elbow-length sleeves, Rosie Nice £17.95, from Rosie Nice, 12 Clifton Road, W9. Tangerine, green and white map-printed cotton boned sun top with shoestring straps, John Craig £3.50. White cotton sun hat, Edward Mann £2.70; leather rope-soled espadrilles, Samm £8.99; thin emerald green patent belt, Gay Designs £1-50.
LEFT: Cream, navy and scarlet checked madras cotton shirt, Carr Jones £8.50. Pale blue linen Oxford bags with tie waist and patch pockets, Martha Hill £8-50, from Martha Hill, 39 Marylebone High Street, W1; blue beret, Kangol £1-50. RIGHT: White cotton loose pintucked shirt and matching Oxford bags, Sujon £16. Sunshine yellow cotton jersey halter-neck, Tabu £4.50, from Nouvelle, Kensington Church Street, W8 ; umbrellas from Crocker & Wilson.
Summer sophistication in the softest possible cotton. Jane Cattlin’s evening dress (£56) has rouleau straps, a handkerchief-point layered skirt and a huge, wraparound, printed matching shawl (not in the picture). At Chic of Hampstead, Heath Street, NW3 . Gilt and coral necklace (about £9) by Mari Ka’lma’n Meller at Feathers, 43 Kensington High Street, W8.
We’re Morocco-bound with a case full of the soft, sweet cottons you’ll be wearing this summer…
Hair by Kelly.
Photographed by Andreas Heumann.
Scanned from Over 21 Magazine, July 1976.
Loose, easy, basic caftan shape for a classic djellaba (£7.95) by Zucchi at Fenwick, New Bond Street, W1.
Supersoft sunburn-saver: a full peasant smock (£17.95 with matching scarf, not shown) and harem pants (£15.95) in shaded fine cheesecloth. By Fiorella at Joseph, 33 Kings Road, SW3.
Long cheesecloth dress to wear any way, any time (£22.50) by Pierre d’Alby at Jumi, 278 High Holborn, WC1. We’ve added shape with a big, brown leather wraparound belt (£8.50) at Henry Lehr, 13 South Molton Street, W1. Sandals (£13 .99) at Russell & Bromley, 24 New Bond Street, W1.
Cool, long dress for a heatwave in extra fine cheesecloth with drawstrings around the waist and under the bosom (£23.95) by Pierre d’Alby at Match, 7 Vere Street, W1. Leather sandals (£1.99) at Eastern Bazaar, 111 Oxford Street, W1.
Very full three-tier skirt (£16.95) by Pierre d’Alby at Jumi, High Holborn, WC1, worn with a leather-trimmed brown canvas waistcoat (£25.95) by Jap, at Jap and Joseph, 20 Brompton Road, SW3 . Leather purse (53p) from a selection at Laurence Corner, 62 Hampstead Road, NW1. Flat sandals (£4.99) at branches of Sacha.
Simple cheesecloth, cleverly coloured blue and mauve for drawstring blouse (£5.50) and dirndl skirt (£9) both by French Connection at Cane, 170 Walton Street, SW3. Woven cotton waistcoat by Corine Bricaire (£12) at Browns, 27 South Molton Street, W1. Wraparound top on the right (around £2.95) by Global Editions at all branches of Fifth Avenue. Skirt (£8.50) by French Connection. Necklace (30p) from Miss Selfridge, Duke Street, W1.
Barbara Daly for Revlon: inspired by Revlon’s Seaglass colours, she changed the shape of this summer’s face – bringing the focus between the brows with Sky Violet Shiny Eye Shadow in a Jar and Plum Shine Eye Gleamer; Charcoal Plum Brush-on Mascara on the lashes. Colour carried on to the cheeks with Luminesque Plum Cream Blusher, the rest of the skin paled with Creamy Ivory Touch & Glow Face Powder. On the lips: Seaglass Copper and Seaglass Topaz. The scent? Intimate of course, to match the pure silk satin bed jacket from The White House, New Bond St. Silver grey skull-cap by Titfers; hair hidden by John of Leonard.
Model is Susan Moncur.
Photographed by Barry Lategan.
Scanned from Beauty in Vogue, Summer 1972.
Barbara Daly, brilliant freelance make-up artist, worked with Revlon new Seaglass colours to create, page 45, “for me, as a working class girl, the perfect fantasy”. She used violets and smudgy plums and feels muted colours will be round the eyes, contrasting with small neat mouths, darkly coloured.
Green suedette pull-on hat, by Edward Mann, £4. Green cord coat, with wrap-over front and wool shawl collar, £13.75. Matching straight skirt, with two hip pockets, £4.75. Both by Stirling Cooper. Green tights by Mary Quant, 40p. Green leather shoes, with slim heels and high flap fronts, from Samm, £9.99. Brown leather shoulder bag, from Bus Stop, £6.95. Brown leather gloves, with embroidered leather trim, from Universal Witness, £4. Brown and white spotted scarf from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius.
Now you can be spot on by wearing corduroy. This material used to be an essential part of every girl’s wardrobe, but for years it’s been a plain Jane fabric and most unfashionable. This spring, however, cord has made a spectacular comeback, particularly in coordinates. Colours are sludgy, shapes are trim, and it’s a nice, casual fabric that wears well and is flattering. Buy a jacket, then choose skirts and trousers to match—and you’ll have a whole new wardrobe that can cope with the vagaries of the English spring.
Photographed by Roger Charity.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, February 1973.
Brown felt pull-on hat, with wide brim, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Black and white striped shirt, from Bus Stop, £6.95. Beige cord coat, with fitted waist and tie belt, £18.95. Matching cord pants with turn-ups, £5.95. Both by Stirling Cooper. Green leather brogues, with high crêpe soles, from Sacha, £8.99. Pin from a selection at Universal Witness. Black felt hat, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Black and white thinly striped cotton blouse, with revers and short sleeves, by Richard Green, £5. Beige jacket, with revers and tightly gathered waistband, £8.25. Matching skirt, with kick pleat at back, £6.50. Both by Stirling Cooper. Black cover-up tights, by Mary Quant, 40p. Black patent lace-up shoes on high crêpe soles, from Sacha, £8.99. Black leather gloves, from British Home Stores, £1.75.
Brown wool hat, from Browns, £5.50. Brown cord jacket with tightly fitted waist, gathered back and two pockets on hips, £13.75. Matching straight skirt, £6.50. Both by Stirling Cooper. Brown tights by Mary Quant, 40p. Leather shoulder bag, from Bus Stop, £6.95. Brown and cream silk printed scarf, from Fenwick, £2.40. Brown cord pull-on hat, from Diane Logan, £5.25. White jersey shirt, by John Craig, £4.50. Brown cord wrap-over knee-length coat, by Stirling Cooper, £18.95. Gloves from British Home Stores, £1.75. Brown, cream and rust printed scarf, from Fenwick, £2.40.
Green suedette hat, by Edward Mann, £4. Green Viyella shirt, £5.95. Cord wrap-over jacket, £8.50. Matching trousers, with belt-loop waistband, £5.95. All by Stirling Cooper. Shoes from Ravel, £9.50. Bag from Bus Stop, £6.95. Gloves from British Home Stores, £1.75. Scarf from Fenwick, £2.40. Pin from a selection at Essences At Antiquarius. Hat by Edward Mann, £4. Jersey shirt by John Craig, £4.50. Green sweater, with heart-shaped neckline, £4.75. Rust jacket, with gathered back, £13.95. Matching cord trousers, £5.95. All by Stirling Cooper. Shoes from Ravel, £6.50. Brown leather gloves from British Home Stores, £1.75.
Green cord pull-on hat, from Diane Logan, £6. Black and white thinly striped cotton shirt, by Richard Green, £5. Green cord jacket, £11.95. Matching trousers, £5.95. Both by Stirling Cooper. Brogues from Sacha, £4.99. Gloves from British Home Stores, £1.75. Tweed pull-on hat, by Malyard Grey, £6. Grey shawl-neck sweater, with red and white stripes, £4.75. Grey wrap-over jacket, £8.50. Both by Stirling Cooper. Maroon cord Oxford bags, with elasticated waistband, by Sheilagh Brown at Coopers, £9.95. Brown brogues from Sacha, £4.99. Gloves from British Home Stores, £1.75. Silk scarf from Fenwick, £2-40.
Pull-on hat from Herbert Johnson, £2-60. Cotton shirt, from Clobber, £4-95. Grey cord battle jacket, by Sheridan Barnett at Coopers, £15-95. Matching trousers, by Sheilagh Brown, £9-95. Court shoes from Ravel, £5.99. Leather gloves from British Home Stores. £1.75. Scarf from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Pull-on hat from Herbert Johnson, £3. Grey silk shirt from Bus Stop, £6-95. Grey cord jacket, £18. Matching trousers, £9.95. Both by Sheilagh Brown at Coopers. Court shoes from Russell and Bromley, £8.49. Leather shoulder bag, from Bus Stop, £6.95. Shetland gloves from Universal Witness, £1-60. Scarf from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius.
Brown felt hat, by Edward Mann, £2-90. Brown cord jacket, £1395. Matching cord skirt, £9-95. Both by Stirling Cooper. Tights by Mary Quant, 40p. Leather court shoes, from Samm, £11.99. Brown leather shoulder bag, from Bus Stop. £6.95. Leather gloves, from British Home Stores, £1-75. Pin brooch from a selection at Universal Witness. Bracelet from Corocraft, £1.25.
LEFT: Long flowing marocaine wrapover dress with frilled cap sleeves, Radley for Ossie Clark, £15, from Quorum, 113 King’s Road, SW3. Swallow brooch, Adrien Mann, approx £2; antique satin clutch bag with rhinestone star, Titfers, approx £8. RIGHT: Keyhole-fronted crêpe button-through party dress with Chinese word pattern, £12.95, from all branches of Bus Stop, mail order 20p extra from 3 Kensington Church Street, W8. Sequined skull cap, Crocodile, £4; antique powder compact, Butler & Wilson, £4-75.
Short, shiny waves, tight to the head and crowned in a slippery sequin beret add the ritzy touch to oyster satins and champagne silks—daring dresses, glamorous enough for anybody’s Rolls.
Brunette model is Therèse.
Photographed by Brian Downes.
Scanned from Honey, December 1971.
LEFT: Poppy printed black dress, Ossie Clark for Quorum, £16.25. Sheer natural tights, Elle, 45p; high-heeled suede peep-toe shoes, Bata, £6; round beaded evening bag, Butler & Wilson, £8.75; diamante hairslide, Adrien Mann, approx £1.25; diamante stranded necklace, Adrien Mann, £4-50. RIGHT: Daring slash-necked green pineapple printed marocaine dress, Ossie Clark for Radley, £16, from Quorum, 113 King’s Road, SW3. Luxurious white feather boa, Dickins & Jones, £7.60; multi-coloured sequined cap, Crocodile, £4; pale green tights, Elle, 45p; suede peep-toe shoes with bows attached, Sacha, £5.99; diamante rings from a selection by Adrien Mann.
LEFT: Slippery black rayon satin dress with scarlet rose print and plain scarlet bolero, Gillian Richard, £11.60. Jet black sequined cap, Crocodile, £4; black fabric gloves, Fenwicks, £1.30; simple diamante choker, Adrien Mann, approx £1.50; tiny square powder compact from a selection by Butler & Wilson; diamante and pearl brooch and diamante rings from a selection by Corocraft. RIGHT: Ritzy plunge-neck black and multi-coloured satin party dress with black velvet bolero, £12.50, from Boobs, 1 A Chapel Market, N1. Diamante drop ear-rings, Corocraft, approx £2.50.
LEFT: Slithery rayon and satin flower embossed dress and bolero, Gillian Richard, £10, from Way In, Hans Crescent, SW1, mail order 20p extra. Glass and diamante choker, Adrien Mann, approx. £1.50; real silver zig-zag and wavy bangles, John Plenderleith, £8.50 each; suede and snakeskin peep-toe shoes, Upwest, £10.95. RIGHT: Flowery fluted long printed satin skirt, £7.50, waistcoat-jacket, £7.50, and slashed-neck button through satin blouse, £5.95, from all branches of Bus Stop, mail order 20p extra from 3 Kensington Church Street, W8. Diamante drop ear-rings, £2, diamante sailing ship brooch, approx £2, both by Adrien Mann; black suede shoes with mauve diamond pattern, Bata, £4.49; beaded evening bag, Butler & Wilson, £12.50.
Crushed velvet again, sliced into a clean Seventies shape, narrow and knickerbockered but with lace-ruffled sleeves for the right touch of contrary nostalgia. By Polly Peck. Bugle-bead embroidered butterflies on brocade choker from The Purple Shop, Chelsea Antique Market. Child’s midi culotte dress by Just Jon.
Because it’s Christmas. Give yourself time. Time for you and those you love. Time to remember a neglected relative with a telephone call, a lonely neighbour with a visit more meaningful than the automatic instant greeting card. Time too, to think of perfect strangers in other countries, struggling against hardships we can barely imagine. Could be this is the time when a donation to one of those organisations which try to help is truly the spirit of Christmas, A spontaneous flowing of compassion and care from the unknown to the unknown.
Photographed by Frank Horvat.
Scanned from Vanity Fair, December 1970.
Velvet, crushed for texture, so right in brown, turned into a curvy gaucho suit by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey. Perfect, amusing accessory— Biba’s boa from, of course, turkey feathers!
Long, serene, thoughtful dress by Young Jaeger in chestnut and purple printed panne velvet. Wide, full sleeves collected tightly at the wrist, soft, graceful skirt belted at the waist with a wide brown suede appliqued belt from Feathers.
The kind of dress that might have got you Henry VIII — if you had wanted him. Tapestry tunic over a long skirt ; beautiful, low-necked blouse in silk. By Bill Gibb for Baccarat.
Because it’s Christmas. You’re going to forget, for once all the dreary practicalities of life. You’ll have no connection with the girl in the bus queue, wet winter mornings, tiresome clients, ceaseless telephone battles, budgets & diets, mortages and shopping. You’re going to experience the womanly spelndour of long, sumptuous gowns, shaped from luxurious stuffs – rich brocades, painstaking tapestries, beautiful braids; the whole piled into pattern on pattern so that the woman we know we could become emerges from grubby little Cinderella with a nonchalant elegance – relaxed, seemingly pampered and so obviously desreving a custom-made Prince Charming.
And because it’s Vanity Fair, it’s quite a long and endearingly meandering editorial on a loose theme which I will divide into a few different parts. Today, the glorious work of Bill Gibb for Baccarat, photographed so exquisitely I want to live in these images.
Photographed by Frank Horvat.
Scanned from Vanity Fair, December 1970.
Mediaeval splendour in a long tapestry coat, richly panelled in hamster, over a tapestry skirt and silk blouse. Rings, Purple Shop, Chelsea Antique Market ; Biba cameo.
The leisured life – something you can try out at Christmas, no matter how much organisation goes into it, epitomised by the slash-sleeved, printed panne velvet tunic over a ruffle-necked, ruffle-wristed blouse in festive red and green print. Bill Gibb for Baccarat.
Liz Eggleston 