Bootleggers

1970s, Antiquarius, bally, Barnaby's Pavilion, boots, chelsea cobbler, Dolcis, Frye, Honey Magazine, Illustrations, Mick Brownfield, Reflection & Light, Russell & Bromley, Sacha

LEFT TO RIGHT : Tan studded leather cowboy boots £12 99, from selected branches of Dolcis. Chisel-toed leather cowboy boots, imported by Frye £28, from Barnaby’s Pavilion, 18 Kensington Church Street, W8 (mail order 30p); branches of Bally. Fringed leather ankle boots with thick crêpe sole £16.99, from main branches of Russell & Bromley. Blonde soft leather lace-up knee-high boots with stacked soles and heels £30, for stockists write to Frye Boots, 21 St James’ Road, Surbiton, Surrey. Blue suede ankle boots with yellow trim. Reflection & Light £18, from Antiquarius. 135 King’s Road, SW3. Dark brown stitched leather knee-high cowboy boots £24.50, from Barnaby’s Pavilion. 18 Kensington Church Street, W8 (mail order 30p). Leather ankle boots £24.99, from all branches of Sacha. Leather jodhpur boots. Chelsea Cobbler £24 99, from Chelsea Cobbler. 33 Sackville Street, W1 Draycott Avenue, SW3; Top Shop. Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1 ; Way In, Hans Crescent, SW3.

Illustration by Mick Brownfield.

Scanned from Honey, November 1974.

Autumn Midicine

1970s, Adrian Mann, Alan Rodin, anello and davide, Angela at London Town, autumn, biba, charlotte martin, clobber, elisabeth novick, georgina linhart, gladrags, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, Jolly Boy, Louis Feraud, Pourelle, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, simon massey, terry de havilland, Vintage Editorials

LEFT: Zig-zag Dralaen midi shirt dress, 8 gns., with a charcoal grey ribbed waistcoat. 4 gns., both by Georgina Linhart; pale grey leather boots, Sacha, 9 gns. RIGHT: Swirly skirted printed Dicel crepe dress with tightly laced wide wet-look belt, Simon Massey, £12 5s.; tightly laced suede boots, Anello and Davide, 16 gns.

This is definitely the Season of the Midi, which involves a whole new set of fashion rules. Midis look best without an inch of leg showing, which means either long tight-fitting boots to take over where the midi finishes, or coloured tights matching clumpy-heeled shoes. So keep gulping; daily doses will keep you in the pink, fashion wise.

Aside from all the dreamy autumnal clothes and the fact that the blonde model is Charlotte Martin, it’s so lovely to see Terry de Havilland’s early and legendary three-tier wedges. As so often with Terry’s shoes, they are erroneously credited to the stockists (here ‘Jolly Boy’), but it’s still lovely to see them.

Photographed by Elisabeth Novick.

Scanned from Honey, August 1970.

LEFT: Giant sunflower•printed drawstring Acrylic knitted midi dress, Clobber, 7 gns.; silver clover-leaf buckled belt, Fifth Avenue. 77s. 6d.; lavender tights Mary Quant, 9s. 11d.; snakeskin wedge-heel shoes, Jolly Boy, 9 gns. RIGHT: Wavy banded pink printed wool midi dress, Simon Jeffrey, 8 gns.; dusty pink tights, Twiggy, 7s.; two-tone wedge-heel snakeskin shoes, Jolly Boy, 9 gns.

LEFT: Tubular rollneck diamond jacquard midi dress, Clobber, 7 gns.; circular suede and leather thonged belt. Adrien Mann, 84s.; pale pink tights, Twiggy, 7s.; co-respondent snakeskin shoes, Jolly Boy, 9 gns. RIGHT: Slender zipped-up jacquard wool-mixture midi dress, Gladrags, £9; olive green printed chiffon scarf, Sara Jane, 59s.; pear-shaped leather linked belt, Ian Mankin, 80s.; plum tights, Mary Quant, 9s. 11d.; two-tone snakeskin sandals, Jolly Boy, 9 gns.

LEFT: Petrol blue and yellow side-split jacquard jersey midi dress, Angela at London Town, 10 gns.; knee-high navy canvas boots, Biba, £7 105.; dusty blue tights, Mary Quaff, 9s. 11d.; black leather belt with oval gilt eyelets, Strides, 84s. RIGHT: Bottle green micro-speckled jacquard jersey zipped-through midi dress, Gladrags, 10 gns.; Neapolitan printed silk scarf, Chester Martin, 63s.; black canvas boots. Biba, £7 10s.

Kaleidoscopic fluted Dicel crepe midi dress, Simon Massey, £11; purple tights, Twiggy, 7s.; leg-hugging lace-up suede boots Anello and Davide, 16 gns.

Random rose-printed Shetland cowl-neck midi dress. Georgina Linhart, 13 gns.; waist-cinching silver buckled belt, Fifth Avenue, 77s. 6d.

LEFT: Terracotta and create button-through Courtelle neospun jacquard coat dress (with matching trousers not shown), Alan Rodin, 15 gns.; sheer smokey brown tights, Berkshire, 9s.; swirly rust and cream printed silk scarf, Chester Martin, 63s. RIGHT: Maroon and beige jacquard jersey midi dress with plain jersey skirt, Angela at London Town, 11i gns.; sheer black coffee tights, Wolford, 13s.; pearlised brown strappy shoes, Mary Quant, 75s.

LEFT: Toffee and grey striped wool midi vest dress, Kadix, £7 10s.; tan’ wood and leather thonged belt, Adrien Mann, 90s.; burnt orange tights, Mary Quant, 9s. 11d.; tightly laced rust suede boots, Anello and Davide, 16 gns. RIGHT: Chevron printed Cossack dress in black, brown and grey Courtelle jacquard knit, Georgina Linhart, 13 gns.; beige leg-hugging boots, from a selection at Russell and Bromley.

LEFT: Leather tasselled bitter chocolate angora wool jersey shirt dress, Miss Feraud, £13 10s.; brown and pink geometric printed silk scarf, Chester Martin, 635.; rust suede lace-up boots, Anello and Davide, 16 gns. RIGHT: Clingy plum and cream honeycomb-printed wool jersey vest dress, Pourelle, 10 gns.; triangular suede linked belt, Adrien Mann, 65s.; tight-fitting beige boots, from a selection at Russell and Bromley.

Flannel as a Platform for Colour

1970s, Adrian Mann, Alan Rodin, bally, Buckle Under, bus stop, christopher mcdonnell, edward mann, Elliott, emcar, Escalade, flair magazine, Frank Murphy, georgina linhart, harold ingram, harriet, John Craig, Joseph, Juliet Dunn, kangol, lee bender, Mark Russell, mary quant, Muira, Mulberry, Pringle, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, Vintage Editorials

Jersey wrap around jacket, Georgina Linhart £15.50. Shirt, Richard Green £5.50. Sleeveless sweater, Harold Ingram £2.20. Prince of Wales skirt, Emcar £22.50. Shoes, Elliott £15.95. Velour hat, Buckle Under £8.50. Clutch bag, £1.60 by Escalade. / Wool tweed jacket £20.50; wool tweed skirt £10.25, both by Christopher McDonnell. Shirt, John Craig £4.50. Wool cardigan, Harold Ingram £3.25. Hat £5.95; cotton scarf 45p, both by Herbert Johnson. Shoes, Russell & Bromley £14.95. Clutch bag, Escalade £10.75.

Bright girls use their grey matter and use flannel as a platform for colour

Photographed at St. Pancras Station, London. Hair by Gerald at Evansky.

Photographed by Frank Murphy.

Scanned from Flair, September 1972.

Wool flannel double breasted jacket and matching bags, John Marks £14.95. Acrilan jersey shirt, 14.49 ; striped V neck sleeveless wool sweater, £3.50, both by John Craig. Angora pull on, Kangol £1.10. Leather knee boots, Sacha £9.99. Canvas striped shoulder bag, Mulberry £3.50. Flower printed wool cardigan jacket with tie belt and matching pleated skirt, Alan Rodin £19. Striped silky shirt, Joseph £7.50. Striped cloche, Marida £2.80. String of pearls, Adrien Mann £1. Patent shoes, Russell & Bromley £17. Leather clutch bag, Mulberry £7. Tights, Mary Quant 75p. Bangles, Paul Stephens 10p each. Telephone wire bangle, Escalade 40p.

Right: Flannel tie belted jacket, £13.50; checked trousers, £5.50, both by Alan Rodin. Spotted silky shirt, Joseph £7.50. Velour cloche, Buckle Under £8.50. Leather knee boots, Sacha £9.99. Pearl choker, Adrien Mann £1. Leather clutch bag, Cingula £9.50. Wool flannel stitched shirt styled jacket with matching pants, Muira £12.50. Long Giselle scarf, Ascher £4.25. Leather knee boots, Sacha £9.99. Leather shoulder bag, Terry Davis £11. Shopping information page 82.

Striped flannel cardigan jacket with matching pleated skirt, Mary Quant £12. Striped silky shirt, Joseph £7.50. Scoop neck long sleeved lambswool jumper, Pringle £9. Tights, Mary Quant 75p. Thin leather belt, Mulberry £2.20. Patent leather shoes, Russell & Bromley £17. Printed pull on hat, Edward Mann £3.20. Telephone wire choker, Escalade £1. Leather clutch bag, Mulberry £7. Bangles, Paul Stephens 10p each. Flannel cape-sleeved wool dress with checked insets, Harriet £9.45. Peachbloom breton style hat, Buckle Under £11. Tights, Mary Quant 75p. Leather clutch bag with perspex buckle, Cingula £9.50. Printed Acri-lan jersey shirt, £4.91; button-through long sleeved matching cardigan, £4.49, both by John Craig. Two-tone patent shoes, Russell & Bromley £19. Long string of pearls, Adrien Mann £2.70

Striped flannel belted jacket, £5.95; matching pants £5.95, both by Bus Stop. Dicel satin waistcoat, £6; matching pink silk spotted shirt, £7.50; white Dicel satin tie, £2, all by Juliet Dunn. Patent and suede lace-up shoes, Bally £7.95. Leather clutch bag, Mulberry £7.Wraparound wool coat with tie belt, Mark Russell £28.50. Tights, Mary Quant 75p. Pearl choker, Adrien Mann £1. Patent leather shoes, Russell & Bromley £17. Long Giselle scarf, Ascher £4.25. Horn bangles, Escalade £2.50 each. Luggage from a selection at Liberty.

Step in Time

1970s, Bata, boots, Charman Boots, Jean Claude Volpeliere, mary quant, Mr Wik, petticoat magazine, platforms, ravel, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, shoes, Sue Hone

Suede shoes and leather platform, Sacha, £5.99, with Quant cover-up tights, 75p. / Sacha leather boots, with no parking stripes, £12.99, with Quant cover-up tights, Peter Robinson. / Suede Jumbo boots, £14, order from Charman boots, 26, Hartland Road, NW1. Quant cover-up tights, 75p. / Sacha ankle-strap shoes with high heels, £6.99, with Quant tights, 75p. from Fenwicks, W1. / Suede laced clog-boot, £8.80. Mr. Wik, 8 St. Alphage High Walk, EC1. with Quant cover-up tights, 75p. / Bata suede shoes with heart applique, £4.49, with Quant striped ribbed sox, 90p from Peter Robinson. / Sacha suede and leather gaucho wedge boots, £10.99 with Quant tights. / Suede crepe-soled shoes, £5.50 from Ravel branches. Quant tights, 75p from Hammonds of Hull. / Quilted suede gaucho boots, Russell and Bromley shops, £32, with Quant cover up tights, 75p. / Tri-colour suede slipons, Sacha shops, £5.99 with Quant multicoloured striped sox, 75p, from Fenwicks W1. / Suede court shoes, Bata, £4.49, Quant bee tights, 75p. / Emma suede boots, £16.50.

Autumn’s first boots and shoes, taking a backward look at the Fifties and beyond, a forward glance at what the later Seventies will bring. But you don’t need us to tell you the way things are going . . . just take a look at the pictures. Step out in those fantastic clumpie soles and vamps, lots of shady suedes and all the pretty quilting, patterning and painting you like.

(Before you ask, all of them please!)

Fashion Sue Hone.

Photographed by Jean Claude Volpeliere

Scanned from Petticoat, 4th September 1971.

Fresh, white and very laid back

1970s, Adrian Mann, chelsea cobbler, cosmopolitan, French Connection, norman eales, Russell & Bromley, strawberry studio, Sujon, Sun and Sand, Vintage Editorials, Wardrobe

T-shirt, French Connection. Trousers, Strawberry Studio. Chiffon scarves, Bazaar. Sandals, The Chelsea Cobbler. / Camisole top, Sun & Sand. Tie dyed skirt, Bazaar. Sash belt, Courtney Reed.

The way we’ll look this summer is very relaxed, very casual and very, very LA. T-shirting is the fabric, white is the colour and soft is the mood. Look cool and feel fresh in glamorous dresses, gathered skirts and drawstring trousers, all in jersey. Where best to show the new sweatshirt style but in sunny California? So we skytrained west to LA, thanks to Laker Air Travel’s new low London-Los Angeles air fare, which costs from £159 for the round trip. The private pool-side life in Beverly Hills is a plush style we could easily become addicted to . . . well, couldn’t you?

Pages 132 -135, 138-139 photographed at the house of interior designer, William L Chidester. Pages 136-137 photographed at the house of photographer Norman Eales.

Fashion by Liz Smith. Make-up by Bjorn.

Photographed by Norman Eales.

Scanned from Cosmopolitan, May 1978.

Lace-banded top, Bobos. £8.25. Cotton jersey skirt, Via Vai, Y1 7.50. Scarf sash, Bazaar, £4 50. Sun-glasses. Primetta, £6.95 Men’s swimming trunks, Speedo, £4.25. Silk flower and leather shell rouleaux tied at neck and waist, Clive Shilton, £10.50 and £9.50.

Lace-edged embroidered vest, Jousse. 1:7.80. Silk trousers, £55, coat, €90, Adrian Cartmell for Manson. ‘Belt, Chris Trill, £8.50. Mules, Russell & Bromley, £18.99. Silk flower and leather shell rouleaux tied at neck and waist, Clive Shilton, £10.50 and £9.50.

Side-slit vest dress, Pascal for Wardrobe, £17.95 Scarf sash, Bazaar, £4.50.

Cotton jersey dress, Via Vai, £23.50. Both pages, silk flower and leather rouleau ties at neck and waist, Clive Shilton, £10.50 to £13.50. Sandals, The Chelsea Cobbler, £39.

Strapless T-shirting top, French Connection, £2.95 Batwing-sleeve cotton shirt, Monica Chong for Plume, £12.50 Silk skirt, Sujon, £36 Plaited neckband, Nicholas Adams, £1.30

T-shirting drawstring trousers, £13, cardigan, £10 60, Via Vai. Strap-less stretchy top, French Connection, £2.95 Canvas boots, The Chelsea Cobbler, £59. Scarf, Bazaar, £4.50 Jewellery on all pages , by Adrien Mann.

Tutti Frutti

1970s, biba, corocraft, Fenwick, Honey Magazine, Jean Howell, Joseph, liberty, miss mouse, moss bros, outlander, Roger Charity, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, Suzuya, Vintage Editorials

Striped chenille sloppy joe, Suzuya from Joseph. Trousers from Miss Mouse. Scarf from Fenwick. Mules from Russell & Bromley. Poppy earclips from Corocraft.

Ski pants, socks and hot tops – a fresh look for the future with a little help from the past.

Photographed by Roger Charity.

Scanned from Honey, May 1975.

Tightly waisted cotton canvas jacket with bamboo fastenings and cotton canvas tapered trousers both by Miss Mouse. Printed silk scarf from Fenwick. Leather wedge heeled mules from Russell & Bromley.

Ice cream coloured finely striped sweater with slash neck and sleeves and tightly ribbed waist by Outlander. Navy cotton canvas trousers with red contrast stitching by Miss Mouse. Shocking pink kerchief from Liberty. Bright pink knitted ankle socks by Jean Howell. Black suedee and cork wedge sandals with embroidery by Sacha.

Blue and pink striped velour slash-neck top with batwing sleeves and plum leather belt with oval wooden buckle, both from Biba. Scarlet stretch ski pants from Moss Bros. Navy leather wedge mules from Russell & Bromley. Long striped scarf from Liberty. Gilt flower earclips from Corocraft.

Loose cotton short sleeved blouse from Liberty. Jet black ski slacks from Moss Bros. Shocking pink chiffon scarf from Biba. Knitted ankle socks from Jean Howell. PAtent peep toe wedge heeled shoes from Russell & Bromley. Poppy earclips from Corocraft.

Wild in the Country

1970s, Angela at London Town, Antiquarius, biba, Butler & Wilson, Cordoba, Crochetta, Elliott, Foale and Tuffin, Hans Metzen, harriet, Herbert Johnson, Inspirational Images, John Carter, miss selfridge, petticoat magazine, ravel, Ric Rac, Russell & Bromley, Sue Hone, Sujon, Titfers, Travers Tempos, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials, wallis

Star vest dress, belt and hat from Cordoba. Elliott lace up sandals. Ric Rac cotton patch blouse.

Slip a shawl over summer and dream the days away in a land of your imagination. There couldn’t be a more beautiful way of letting a long sticky heatwave slip by than with these gentle colours made by a bleaching sun and these homespun clothes in soft country shapes. Whether you make it all the way to a shady plantation or just as far as the nearest cornfield, the scenery around any home this summer should look pretty good. Build up layers of cotton checs, sand suede overslips and warm rainbow knit waistcoats because even the sun can havee tantrums sometimes. Pack a pair of laced sandals and one huge-brimed straw hat.

Fashion by Sue Hone.

Photographed by John Carter.

Scanned from Petticoat, 22nd May 1971.

Travers Tempos cotton madras skirt. Angela puff sleeve blouse. Harriett bolero. Butler and Wilson bracelet. Russell and Bromley sandals. / Sujon long madras skirt and vest top. Butler and Wilson pendant. Van der Fransen shawl. Miss Selfridge bag.

Hans Metzen skirt, jacket and shorts. Ravel sandals. Herbert Johnson wool belt. Antiquarius pendant.

Tie-dyed quilted cotton dress from Wallis shops. Butler and Wilson flower necklace. Ravel sandals. Biba scarf.

Voile kaftan by Ric Rac. Multi-coloured shorts by Foale and Tuffin. Crochetta bolero. Ravel sandals. Titfers bag.

Crepe skirt and matching blouse by Van der Fransen. Elliott lace up leg sandals. Choker from Butler and Wilson.

Travers Tempos madras cotton dress. Crochet waistcoat by Crochetta.

We Gotta Whole Lotta Sole

1970s, Honey Magazine, platforms, Russell & Bromley, shoes, stockings, Vintage Adverts

Yes please x 3

Advert for Russell & Bromley scanned from Honey, October 1972.

Swaggering In

1970s, biba, bus stop, Denis Peel, Dolcis, Honey Magazine, John Craig, lee bender, lilley and skinner, manolo blahnik, Martha Hill, ravel, Richard Shops, Russell & Bromley, Sheraton, Vintage Editorials, zapata

Bold zi g zag pure wool swagger coat with sailor collar by Sheraton. Polo neck sweater by John Craig. Navy tights by Mary Quant. Peep toe ankle strap shoes by Biba. / Swirly blanket check coat with pleated back by Bus Stop. Suede sunray shoes by Dolcis. Both pairs of gloves by Kir.

The incredible swagger is back. We all know you’ve seen it before, hidden away in mother’s wardrobe, but forget the mothball version and look out for bold stripes, zig-zags and checks in bright primary colours. The difference is that these coats have neat tight-fitting shoulders and wide swirling skirts which swing when you walk-surprisingly flattering and easy to wear. So let the wind blow, all you need is a flash of panache and a splash of colour.

Photographed by Denis Peel.

Scanned from Honey, October 1971.

Window pane check swagger coat by Martha Hill. Lemon tights by Twiggy. Suede ‘Garbo’ shoes by Ravel. / Ritzy scarlet shaggy coat with wide swinging back by Martha Hill. Glace kid leather shoes by Zapata.

Bottle green and yellow McNeal tartan swagger coat by Richard Shops. Black leather shoes by Russell and Bromley. Navy leather shoulder bag by Biba. / Sage green wool tweed swagger coat by Elgee. Rust and burgundy suede shoes by Lilley and Skinner. Bottle green suede bag by Biba.

The Great Imposters

1970s, anello and davide, aquascutum, Beged'Or, Bermona, Borg, caroline baker, chelsea cobbler, Dada, Feathers, Herbert Johnson, jane whiteside, Jonvelle, kensington market, kurt geiger, laura ashley, Laura Jamieson, Lizzie Carr, Martha Hill, Mexicana, Mog, Morel, nova magazine, peter robinson, Russell & Bromley, Selfridges, stirling cooper, the souk, The Sweet Shop, velmar, Vintage Editorials, Wild Mustang Co.

Tissavel-lined Galaxy coat by Beged’Or approx. £50; cotton blouse by Mexicana, £13; fur fabric jeans by Newmans, 12 gns; hairy slipper boots at Russell & Bromley, £6 19s; velour hat by Bermona, £3 11s; hatband made from an Estonian tie at the Russian Shop, 7s 6d; fur bag at The Souk, £3 5s; wool gloves at Dickins & Jones, 10s:

Leather and fur get more expensive every year. It’s not only the taxes and rising costs of production. It’s just that there aren’t enough good animal skins for leather around to meet the consumer demand. Furs are there in quantity for the fabulously rich. Luckily a good substitute has been found – the nylon-spun, man-made sort. Some, especially in the leather field, are so like the real thing the only way you can tell the difference is by the smell. Take the white coat on pages 46 and 47. It’s fake and costs about £50. It has a double in real fur and leather for £270. Made by the same people who have duplicated most of their collection this way and it takes an eagle eye and nose to tell the difference. Others are just furry, woolly fabrics, obviously not imitating some four-legged friend, which is one of the nicest things about them. This fur fabric is now getting the treatment it deserves. Nairn Williamson (more famous for their Vinyl floor and wall coverings) were the first to see its potential and got six designers to use their Velmar fur fabric in their winter collections. Jane Whiteside for Stirling Cooper (new label getting famous fast for their beautiful jersey co-ordinates) was the cleverest of them all. She used the best sludgy colours, mixed it with needlecord to make a group of jackets and coats to go with trousers, skirts and blouses. Borg (American originated and the pioneers in England of this deep pile fabric) has been around for a long time, mostly on the inside of duffle and raincoats but it’s on the outside as a normal fabric that it looks its best. Next winter there will be a lot more of it around, now that designers are getting less snobby about plastics. Not only is it as warm as fur, it is, of course, much cheaper and you don’t smell like a wet dog when you come in from the rain, either. So you can wear it herding sheep on lost weekends, or in town queuing for the cinema without any guilt feelings about ruining your assets.

Insert obligatory ‘I don’t agree with the thrust of the argument for fake furs as just a financial consideration here’ caveat from me, your content provider. Don’t shout at me, basically. But it’s an interesting insight into the mindset of 1970, and the proliferation of fake furs and skins at that time. It’s also a breathtakingly styled and photographed work of art from Caroline Baker and Jonvelle.

Fashion by Caroline Baker.

Photographed by Jonvelle.

Scanned from Nova, January 1970.