Naturally mouse hair is usually limp so it needs extra life, extra lift, extra bounce. All this can be achieved by very, very fine highlighting. Keep away from obvious streaks, let your hair look instead as if it’s just come out of the sun. An expert will know exactly which colours to choose for you, exactly the right depth and contrast of highlighting. You can have water-rinse streaks or permanent; you can have your own hair coloured, or your hairpiece. The subtly streaked hair, left, is controlled at the top, combed into waves, then frizzed into a soft cloud at the shoulders. The make-up has the same romantic, pre-Raphaelite look with Orlane’s Satilane beige no. 4 with brush-on rouge no. 3. Eyes: cream pearl shadow in Bleu Perle, Bleu Marine roll-on mascara. Lipstick: beige-pink Paprika. Necklace: an eagle from the Purple Shop, Chelsea Antique Market. Hair colour, here, and in the picture, above, by Daniel, styling by Leonard, both from the House of Leonard.
Helga, half-Austrian, half Irish/American and twenty-one this month, with new eye-catching make-up: Leichner’s theatrical grease stick in Chrome with Carmine 1 over it above the eye hollow. Foundation: Blend of Pearl with Pink on Pink Glowtone over cheeks, Alletta lipstick, all Kamera Klear. Jean Muir’s silk crepe jersey dress, pink coral flower brooch with earrings to match by Demas.
Sparkling black chiffon dress with plunging neckline and diamante embroidery, £250 from Thea Porter, 8 Greek Street, London W1
Japanese men are peculiarly affected by a glimpse of the naked nape of a Japanese neck. In Western cultures such excitement is generated by a panorama of bosom (as in this black chiffon dress by Thea Porter), or a smooth swathe of thigh. Here we show some revelations from the London autumn collections… hot numbers for the coolest of winter evenings.
All perfect for lockdowns, I’m sure you’ll agree! It’s also nice to be surprised by Ossie Clark every once in a while – with a corset being so vastly different in tone from what we would usually expect.
Photographed by Sam Haskins.
Fashion Editor: Cherry Twiss.
Hair by Paulene at Michaeljohn.
Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, 8th November 1974.
Cream and brown two piece with lace split skirt and boned top by Ossie Clark. Shoes by Charles Jourdan, 47/49 Brompton Road, SW3
Slate blue dress by Yuki. Approximately £,165 from Fortnum and Mason, Chic of Hampstead, Heath Street, London NW3 or Lucienne’s, 89 Knightsbridge, London SW1. Gold and jade bangles from Jones, 52 Beauchamp Place, London SW3.
White silk chiffon and net full skirt and sheer top by Zandra Rhodes, to order from Fortnum and Mason.
Black jersey skirt with split front by Yuki obtainable from Fortnum and Mason or Chic of Hampstead. Sheer silk chiffon halter top by Sheilagh Browne, £14 from Quorum. Black suspender belt from Janet Reger, Bottom Drawer, 33 Southwick Street, London W2. Black stockings from Biba, Kensington High Street, W8. Shoes from Yves St Laurent, 113 New Bond Street, W1 .
Two things I will never fail to be tickled by are 1. The far-reaching influence of Biba Deco on Seventies style, up to and including the era of Punk and New Wave and 2. The fact that there was a National Dairy Council who would spend time and money making milk look sexy and elegant. Delicious!
Jet black pullover with fluted cap sleeves, Barnett from Wakeford’s, King’s Road, SW3. Billowing sleeved crepe shirt, St Honore. / Stripey Acrilan sweater, Tabu, from Originelle Gloucester Road, SW7. Tangerine crepe shirt, St Honore; ship brooch, Mr Freedom; striped cloche, Levison Originals. Both shirts from Flair, Golders Green Road.
Brighter and brighter, the new brand of knits is coming. Bolder than ever, with huge batwing sleeves, flaring kimono arms and rainbow stripes. Piled on top of one another or over a striking shirt – without any doubt the greatest knits ever seen.
I don’t know about you, but clown and circus-influenced editorials are one of my favourite themes and really quite a staple of the late Sixties and early Seventies youth magazine boom.
Square necked acrylic sweater, Erica Budd. Full sleeved crepe shirt, St Honore. / Patriotic striped Acrylic sweater from Crowthers, Kensington High Street, W8. Patchwork print cotton shirt, Jasper from Sidney Smith, King’s Road, SW3.
Bright red batwing Orlon sweater, Erica Budd. Ladybird cotton shirt, Jasper. Moon and star plastic brooch, Adrien Mann. / Confetti spotted and striped pullover and scarlet vest, both by John Craig from Joseph, King’s Road, SW3. Lemon brooch, Paul Stephens; bee brooch, Adrien Mann.
Kingfisher blue sweater, Erica Budd from Smart’n’Tartan, Upwest, Oxford Street W1. Goldfish brooch, Adrien Mann. / Navy sweater with small batwing sleeves, Mary Quant from Dickens & Jones. Wild strawberry cotton shirt, Dranella.
Pillar box red and bright yellow Dralon sweater from Wallis. / Navy, scarlet and light blue Acrylic sweater, John Craig from 2007 Oxford Street, W1.
This is Linda Hayden, seventeen year old actress and friend of Richard Harris. Of her he’s said, “She looks absolutely lovely, she’s a wonderful girl.” Linda doesn’t altogether agree with him. She doesn’t think she looks absolutely lovely because she says her cheeks are too podgy. She is very partial to lager and lime, Cornish cream, butter and crusty fresh bread : But when she is working on a film like Baby Love or her latest, Satan’s Skin, her weight just falls off. Still, normally it’s a great battle to keep to her ideal seven and a half stone. When we met Linda, she told us that she had two ambitions: 1. To stop being cast as a nymphet in horror films. 2. To learn how to shade her face so it always looked slim. Linda has very little time to learn about makeup. When she was fifteen she starred in Baby Love, but was not allowed to go and see it. After that she had a series of sexy parts in Hammer films like Taste the Blood of Dracula. In her latest film with Charles Hanson and Piers Haggard there are all sorts of evil doings, Linda told us, “Hardly a moment went by without someone being impaled on a pitchfork, raped, or stabbed with shears in the back. I cut my foot to ribbons with the end of the fork first time I had to do it and was rushed off for a tetanus injection.” Linda, who lives at home with her parents and sister goes off food for about a week when she wants to look really super. She just lives on cheese and coffee. This way she can lose five pounds without trying. She was vague about future plans. She is in no rush to do another film and laughed at any idea of marriage. Richard Harris’s former wife, Elizabeth, and Rex Harrison are inseparable but Richard is cagey about marrying again and says, “Even Helen of Troy couldn’t drag me to the altar anyway Linda is too young and ambitious and I am too old and ambitious. I am going on forty!” With the help of a makeup artist from Eyelure, we show in step by step pictures how the skilful use of makeup can alter Linda’s (and your) features.
Shot 1—no makeup. Shot 2—Max Factor Pancake 085 was smoothed in with a dampened sponge to give an even base. Shot 3—Linda’s eyebrows were brushed upwards and outwards with a dampened mascara brush to give them a better shape. Foundation was blended well into the eyelids and then a light dusting of face powder was added with the sponge, to give a non-greasy finish. White Shadow Pearl used with water and stroked on gently with a brush, was used to highlight immediately under the eyebrow. Then Smokey Grey shadow used with water and carefully applied with a brush was used all over the lid, and brought round under the eye. A little white shadow pearl at the very roots of the eyelash made the eye appear more blended in. Top lashes were mascaraed from underneath with Max Factor’s black mascara. Finally feather light strokes of soft brown pencil were used to shape the brows. The lashes used were very natural– Eylure’s See Through Lash No. I in brown. They were put on carefully with tweezers, starting in the middle, then pressed gently into place. Next the bottom lashes were mascaraed from above. Black Short Trim Underlashes were used because bottom lashes tend to look lighter. These were also applied with tweezers. Shot 4—Shading was done with brushes for best effect. Eylure do twelve brushes for £6.6s. Using the Eylure Face Shaper Kit, the makeup artist put white highlighter on the cheekbone and plenty of brown shaker in the hollow of the cheek. This was done with upswept brush strokes and blended in so that it didn’t look just like a dirty smudge. Then more highlight was used under the shaper to bring out the lower jaw and finally dark shaper again was used along the jawline and underneath to give the chin more definition. Shot 5—A delicate tinge of blusher was blended in just below the cheekbone. With some good brushwork Linda’s cheekbones were re-discovered. Shot 6.—The final look with Estee Lauder’s lipstick Walnut, glossed up with vaseline.
From left to right: Black satin Oxford bags, Angela at London Town £5; black satin clutch bag with rhinestone star, Titfers £8. Orange and red blanket check pure wool bags with turn ups, Pierre Elegante £8; yellow felt clutch bag with navy satin trim and flower button, Titfers £4. Wool gaberdine rust Oxford bags with winged pockets and turn ups, Gordon King £7.50; navy felt clutch bag with white anchor and white satin trim, Titfers £4; cotton kerchief square 40p, Herbert Johnson. Rust two toned patterned wool tweed trousers with turn ups, Biba £5.50; Black suede clutch bag with rust suede trim, Biba £7.75. Red acrylic wool Oxford bags, Alistair Cowin £6.50; black blue and beige chevron felt clutch bag, Titfers, £4.20. Rust brown and ochre checked wool tweed bags with turn ups, Sujon £9.50; golden suede clutch bag with tortoiseshell flap, Elle £12.50.
This autumn there are bags everywhere: Oxford ones on your pins and clutch ones in the hand. The return of the straight trouser has brought with it wing lapelled jackets with padded shoulders and neat waistcoats. Underneath, a feminine touch to soften the butch look, blouses with floppy painters’ bows. And don’t forget your clutch bag tucked neatly under your arm.
Model Sue Baloo, brightly glowing with Revlon’s Ultima 11 Dresden Peach Cream Foam smoothed over her face and neck, then dusted lightly with Transluscent Face Powder – her cheeks learning the blues in Lapis Blue eyeshadow from the new Silk Print Eye Collection, blending into its compact partner, Sari Pink on the eyelids with Carbon Blue Lash Makeup Automatic intensifying her grey eyes. Blue Baloo’s lips are smiling in Rich Rich Russet – a stunningly clear bright red from the Couture Lip Collection; her hair is drawn back by Oliver at Leonard under a leather, feather and wooden bead belt wound around her head of brilliant blue and yellow ochre with medallions painted in powder blue, by Pablo & Delia.
Hats on both models by Kangol. Sequins stuck on by hand. Knitted silver lurex halterneck top by Erica Budd. Fox fur cape from Essences at Antiquarius. Black leather gloves by F. G. Shave. Knitted silver lurex wrap over cardigan by Erica Budd. Fox muffler as before. Black leather gloves from Moss Bros. Black and glass beaded pendant necklace from a selection at Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market.
Black and silver are this year’s popular Christmas colours. Sweaters are in silver lurex striped in black, black wool flecked with silver and endless other combinations. Shapes are halter-necks, dolmans, or little wrap-over cardigans – almost any shape will do. Accessories are bright and glittery. Add touches, like sticking sequins on your hats, and shoes, and you’re all set to outshine the fairylights.
Photographed by Christian Laroque.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, December 1972.
What a year. It’s hard to summon up a great deal of enthusiasm for the Christmas we’re about to have, but I’m looking backwards to look forwards, as I often do. I still seem to find joy and solace in art and aesthetics and I hope my posts have given you the odd moment of enjoyment and inspiration this year. Thank you for your support and to everyone who has bought vintage from me or liked/shared/commented on my blog and Instagram posts. Sending you my love and best wishes for a better year ahead.
Hats on both models by Kangol. Sequins stuck on by hand. Wool halterneck sweater with thin silver lurex stripes by John Craig. Black satin skirt from Bus Stop. Fox fur muffler from a seletion at Essences at Antiquarius. Black leather gloves by F. G. Shave. Silver lurex sweater with thin black stripes by Marshall London. Fox fur muffler as before. Black leather gloves from Moss Bros. Christmas decorations from Woolworths.
Hats on both models by Kangol. Sequins stuck on by hand. Lurex cardigan with long sleeves from Biba. Long black satin skirt from Bus Stop. Fox fur muffler from a seletion at Essences at Antiquarius. Black leather gloves by F. G. Shave. Black and silver lurex striped sweater from Biba. Black satin Oxford bags by Richard Green. Black suede shoes with silver snakeskin trim by Leicester shoes. Fox muffler as before. Black leather gloves from Moss Bros. Necklace from a selection at Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market.
Hats on both models by Kangol. Sequins stuck on by hand. Green wool lurex flecked sweater from Universal Witness. Black satin skirt by Mushroom. Black suede shoes with silver snakeskin trim by Leicester shoes. Black leather gloves from Moss Bros. Glass and amber dress clip from a selection at Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market. Charcoal grey lurex sweater with heart-shaped neck and lurex trims by John Craig. Black satin skirt from Bus Stop. Fox fur muffler from a seletion at Essences at Antiquarius. Black leather gloves by F. G. Shave.
Hats on both models by Kangol. Sequins stuck on by hand. Black, gold and silver striped lurex sweater by Crochetta. Black satin skirt by Mushroom. Black suede shoes with silver snakeskin trim by Leicester shoes. Long yellow chiffon scarf from a selection at Essences. Black leather gloves by F. G. Shave. Necklace from a selection at Marie Middleton at Chelsea Antique Market. Black angora halterneck sweater, striped with silver lurex, by Crochetta. Black sequin jacket from Essences at Antiquarius. Black satin skirt from Bus Stop. Gold shoes from Sacha. Black leather gloves from Moss Bros.
Liz Eggleston 