Green suedette pull-on hat, by Edward Mann, £4. Green cord coat, with wrap-over front and wool shawl collar, £13.75. Matching straight skirt, with two hip pockets, £4.75. Both by Stirling Cooper. Green tights by Mary Quant, 40p. Green leather shoes, with slim heels and high flap fronts, from Samm, £9.99. Brown leather shoulder bag, from Bus Stop, £6.95. Brown leather gloves, with embroidered leather trim, from Universal Witness, £4. Brown and white spotted scarf from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius.
Now you can be spot on by wearing corduroy. This material used to be an essential part of every girl’s wardrobe, but for years it’s been a plain Jane fabric and most unfashionable. This spring, however, cord has made a spectacular comeback, particularly in coordinates. Colours are sludgy, shapes are trim, and it’s a nice, casual fabric that wears well and is flattering. Buy a jacket, then choose skirts and trousers to match—and you’ll have a whole new wardrobe that can cope with the vagaries of the English spring.
Photographed by Roger Charity.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, February 1973.
Brown felt pull-on hat, with wide brim, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Black and white striped shirt, from Bus Stop, £6.95. Beige cord coat, with fitted waist and tie belt, £18.95. Matching cord pants with turn-ups, £5.95. Both by Stirling Cooper. Green leather brogues, with high crêpe soles, from Sacha, £8.99. Pin from a selection at Universal Witness. Black felt hat, by Edward Mann, £2.90. Black and white thinly striped cotton blouse, with revers and short sleeves, by Richard Green, £5. Beige jacket, with revers and tightly gathered waistband, £8.25. Matching skirt, with kick pleat at back, £6.50. Both by Stirling Cooper. Black cover-up tights, by Mary Quant, 40p. Black patent lace-up shoes on high crêpe soles, from Sacha, £8.99. Black leather gloves, from British Home Stores, £1.75.
Brown wool hat, from Browns, £5.50. Brown cord jacket with tightly fitted waist, gathered back and two pockets on hips, £13.75. Matching straight skirt, £6.50. Both by Stirling Cooper. Brown tights by Mary Quant, 40p. Leather shoulder bag, from Bus Stop, £6.95. Brown and cream silk printed scarf, from Fenwick, £2.40. Brown cord pull-on hat, from Diane Logan, £5.25. White jersey shirt, by John Craig, £4.50. Brown cord wrap-over knee-length coat, by Stirling Cooper, £18.95. Gloves from British Home Stores, £1.75. Brown, cream and rust printed scarf, from Fenwick, £2.40.
Green suedette hat, by Edward Mann, £4. Green Viyella shirt, £5.95. Cord wrap-over jacket, £8.50. Matching trousers, with belt-loop waistband, £5.95. All by Stirling Cooper. Shoes from Ravel, £9.50. Bag from Bus Stop, £6.95. Gloves from British Home Stores, £1.75. Scarf from Fenwick, £2.40. Pin from a selection at Essences At Antiquarius. Hat by Edward Mann, £4. Jersey shirt by John Craig, £4.50. Green sweater, with heart-shaped neckline, £4.75. Rust jacket, with gathered back, £13.95. Matching cord trousers, £5.95. All by Stirling Cooper. Shoes from Ravel, £6.50. Brown leather gloves from British Home Stores, £1.75.
Green cord pull-on hat, from Diane Logan, £6. Black and white thinly striped cotton shirt, by Richard Green, £5. Green cord jacket, £11.95. Matching trousers, £5.95. Both by Stirling Cooper. Brogues from Sacha, £4.99. Gloves from British Home Stores, £1.75. Tweed pull-on hat, by Malyard Grey, £6. Grey shawl-neck sweater, with red and white stripes, £4.75. Grey wrap-over jacket, £8.50. Both by Stirling Cooper. Maroon cord Oxford bags, with elasticated waistband, by Sheilagh Brown at Coopers, £9.95. Brown brogues from Sacha, £4.99. Gloves from British Home Stores, £1.75. Silk scarf from Fenwick, £2-40.
Pull-on hat from Herbert Johnson, £2-60. Cotton shirt, from Clobber, £4-95. Grey cord battle jacket, by Sheridan Barnett at Coopers, £15-95. Matching trousers, by Sheilagh Brown, £9-95. Court shoes from Ravel, £5.99. Leather gloves from British Home Stores. £1.75. Scarf from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius. Pull-on hat from Herbert Johnson, £3. Grey silk shirt from Bus Stop, £6-95. Grey cord jacket, £18. Matching trousers, £9.95. Both by Sheilagh Brown at Coopers. Court shoes from Russell and Bromley, £8.49. Leather shoulder bag, from Bus Stop, £6.95. Shetland gloves from Universal Witness, £1-60. Scarf from a selection at Essences at Antiquarius.
Brown felt hat, by Edward Mann, £2-90. Brown cord jacket, £1395. Matching cord skirt, £9-95. Both by Stirling Cooper. Tights by Mary Quant, 40p. Leather court shoes, from Samm, £11.99. Brown leather shoulder bag, from Bus Stop. £6.95. Leather gloves, from British Home Stores, £1-75. Pin brooch from a selection at Universal Witness. Bracelet from Corocraft, £1.25.
How many ways do you know to wear a headscarf? When you get down to it there are dozens of different ways. We asked singer Marianne Faithfull what her favourite methods were, and she showed us—as here!
When I was little, my mum used to find old Sixties and Seventies girls annuals in charity shops for me to pore over. There are a few things from my early life I can pinpoint as how I became ‘me’ and my tendency towards pop culture from before I was born, and this feature on multiple ways to tie a scarf, modelled by Marianne Faithfull, was definitely one of them. Fortunately it didn’t, as I had feared, get thrown away and now I feel obliged to put it out there into the world.
Scanned from Girls World Annual, 1967.
On the left, Marianne shows a way to add smart interest to a simple blouse or dress. A triangle of matching cotton is made up into a dinky scarf, and is worn more for effect than to keep the hair tidy. It also looks cute tied at the nape, instead of under the chin.
Right : a fun way to wear a scarf is the cowboy style. This is best with a plain dress or sweater.
From left to right : 1 . The most common way to wear a scarf, but Marianne includes the two essential ingredients for prettiness : a crisp unwrinkled scarf and pretty, neat hair. 2. A chiffon scarf is used to hold the hair loosely back. Looped round at the nape, it is knotted, then pinned through the knot to hold it well up on the back of the head. 3. This is a clever way to dress up a scarf for evening wear: a rose tucked under the scarf. This also helps to stop the scarf flattening bouffant hair.
A scarf is formed into a pleated bandeau, and tied just beneath the ear so that the ends come forward on to the shoulder. 5. This is a windproof method, where the ends are crossed over at the chin, then tied at the back. 6. A coronet made of a scarf, a safety pin, and an inch-deep circle of thin cardboard. As for the bandeau it is flat pleated(iron the pleats into place) and wrapped round the cardboard coronet. A safety pin fastens it, and the ends of the scarf, trailing down the back, hide the pin. Use hairpins to hold it in place.
LEFT: Long flowing marocaine wrapover dress with frilled cap sleeves, Radley for Ossie Clark, £15, from Quorum, 113 King’s Road, SW3. Swallow brooch, Adrien Mann, approx £2; antique satin clutch bag with rhinestone star, Titfers, approx £8. RIGHT: Keyhole-fronted crêpe button-through party dress with Chinese word pattern, £12.95, from all branches of Bus Stop, mail order 20p extra from 3 Kensington Church Street, W8. Sequined skull cap, Crocodile, £4; antique powder compact, Butler & Wilson, £4-75.
Short, shiny waves, tight to the head and crowned in a slippery sequin beret add the ritzy touch to oyster satins and champagne silks—daring dresses, glamorous enough for anybody’s Rolls.
Brunette model is Therèse.
Photographed by Brian Downes.
Scanned from Honey, December 1971.
LEFT: Poppy printed black dress, Ossie Clark for Quorum, £16.25. Sheer natural tights, Elle, 45p; high-heeled suede peep-toe shoes, Bata, £6; round beaded evening bag, Butler & Wilson, £8.75; diamante hairslide, Adrien Mann, approx £1.25; diamante stranded necklace, Adrien Mann, £4-50. RIGHT: Daring slash-necked green pineapple printed marocaine dress, Ossie Clark for Radley, £16, from Quorum, 113 King’s Road, SW3. Luxurious white feather boa, Dickins & Jones, £7.60; multi-coloured sequined cap, Crocodile, £4; pale green tights, Elle, 45p; suede peep-toe shoes with bows attached, Sacha, £5.99; diamante rings from a selection by Adrien Mann.
LEFT: Slippery black rayon satin dress with scarlet rose print and plain scarlet bolero, Gillian Richard, £11.60. Jet black sequined cap, Crocodile, £4; black fabric gloves, Fenwicks, £1.30; simple diamante choker, Adrien Mann, approx £1.50; tiny square powder compact from a selection by Butler & Wilson; diamante and pearl brooch and diamante rings from a selection by Corocraft. RIGHT: Ritzy plunge-neck black and multi-coloured satin party dress with black velvet bolero, £12.50, from Boobs, 1 A Chapel Market, N1. Diamante drop ear-rings, Corocraft, approx £2.50.
LEFT: Slithery rayon and satin flower embossed dress and bolero, Gillian Richard, £10, from Way In, Hans Crescent, SW1, mail order 20p extra. Glass and diamante choker, Adrien Mann, approx. £1.50; real silver zig-zag and wavy bangles, John Plenderleith, £8.50 each; suede and snakeskin peep-toe shoes, Upwest, £10.95. RIGHT: Flowery fluted long printed satin skirt, £7.50, waistcoat-jacket, £7.50, and slashed-neck button through satin blouse, £5.95, from all branches of Bus Stop, mail order 20p extra from 3 Kensington Church Street, W8. Diamante drop ear-rings, £2, diamante sailing ship brooch, approx £2, both by Adrien Mann; black suede shoes with mauve diamond pattern, Bata, £4.49; beaded evening bag, Butler & Wilson, £12.50.
Velvet in various guises tunic, Clobber; trousers and suede belt, Feathers; hat, Malyard; lace-up boots, Chelsea Cobbler; neckband, Vivvy at Kensington Antique Market.
Crushed velvet again, sliced into a clean Seventies shape, narrow and knickerbockered but with lace-ruffled sleeves for the right touch of contrary nostalgia. By Polly Peck. Bugle-bead embroidered butterflies on brocade choker from The Purple Shop, Chelsea Antique Market. Child’s midi culotte dress by Just Jon.
Because it’s Christmas. Give yourself time. Time for you and those you love. Time to remember a neglected relative with a telephone call, a lonely neighbour with a visit more meaningful than the automatic instant greeting card. Time too, to think of perfect strangers in other countries, struggling against hardships we can barely imagine. Could be this is the time when a donation to one of those organisations which try to help is truly the spirit of Christmas, A spontaneous flowing of compassion and care from the unknown to the unknown.
Photographed by Frank Horvat.
Scanned from Vanity Fair, December 1970.
Velvet, crushed for texture, so right in brown, turned into a curvy gaucho suit by Janice Wainwright for Simon Massey. Perfect, amusing accessory— Biba’s boa from, of course, turkey feathers!
Long, serene, thoughtful dress by Young Jaeger in chestnut and purple printed panne velvet. Wide, full sleeves collected tightly at the wrist, soft, graceful skirt belted at the waist with a wide brown suede appliqued belt from Feathers.
The kind of dress that might have got you Henry VIII — if you had wanted him. Tapestry tunic over a long skirt ; beautiful, low-necked blouse in silk. By Bill Gibb for Baccarat.
Because it’s Christmas. You’re going to forget, for once all the dreary practicalities of life. You’ll have no connection with the girl in the bus queue, wet winter mornings, tiresome clients, ceaseless telephone battles, budgets & diets, mortages and shopping. You’re going to experience the womanly spelndour of long, sumptuous gowns, shaped from luxurious stuffs – rich brocades, painstaking tapestries, beautiful braids; the whole piled into pattern on pattern so that the woman we know we could become emerges from grubby little Cinderella with a nonchalant elegance – relaxed, seemingly pampered and so obviously desreving a custom-made Prince Charming.
And because it’s Vanity Fair, it’s quite a long and endearingly meandering editorial on a loose theme which I will divide into a few different parts. Today, the glorious work of Bill Gibb for Baccarat, photographed so exquisitely I want to live in these images.
Photographed by Frank Horvat.
Scanned from Vanity Fair, December 1970.
Mediaeval splendour in a long tapestry coat, richly panelled in hamster, over a tapestry skirt and silk blouse. Rings, Purple Shop, Chelsea Antique Market ; Biba cameo.
The leisured life – something you can try out at Christmas, no matter how much organisation goes into it, epitomised by the slash-sleeved, printed panne velvet tunic over a ruffle-necked, ruffle-wristed blouse in festive red and green print. Bill Gibb for Baccarat.
Reflections of the ’30’s with the soft, silky feel of Light Touch by Berlei and the subtle, sensuous illumination of Price’s candles. `Venetian’, the classic candle style, from Price’s is in 24 different colours and a variety of sizes; from 61p. Light Touch has two styles in White Cloud or Blue Angel, and sizes 34-36a, 34-38b, 34-38c. [Above] shows Plunge’ a deeply plunging bra, £1.95 … made in Qiana, silky, smooth—epitomising that ’30’s feeling.
If you have never felt silk next to your skin, Berlei recreates that sensuous feel with a new range of bras called Light Touch. They are made in a luxurious material, Qiana. Silkier than silk, Light Touch gives you that ’30’s feeling; soft, saucy and sure. Price’s candles echo that mood beautifully, with their subtle, caressing light shimmering around you.
A stunner of an advertorial, sadly with no photographer credit, for Berlei bras with a stunning Seventies-does-Deco aesthetic. Which, in turn, signposts something rather more familiar from later Seventies into Eighties imagery. Whoever this photographer was, I think they were very ahead of the curve (if you’ll pardon the pun!).
Scanned from Vogue, October 1st 1973.
Light Touch in new Qiana are smooth, sensuous bras, feeling like a second silken skin. `Plunge’ seen here is in White Cloud. Price; £1.95. Price’s candle range is an array of colours and an assortment of different sizes and shapes. Shown here is a ‘Gem Light’, one of the Chunky Pillar Candles. Amongst this range are ‘Chelsea’ perfumed candles with 15 different fragrant-les and colours. Price approx 27p.
Silky touch of the ‘ 30’ s —Light Touch from Berlei, integrating with the soft, warm touch from Price’s, giving you a delightful feeling of sweet abandon. ‘Fibrefill’ in White Cloud, made in Qiana, the next best thing to silk, £2.35. Floating Coloured Flame’ is the new revolutionary addition to Price’s range. Its mystical flame is created simply with a glass, a float, a wick and a coloured liquid, red or green. Price approx 85p.
Light Touch has two styles in White Cloud or Blue Angel, and sizes 34-36a, 34-38b, 34-38c. [Above] is ‘Fibrefill’ , the brief contoured bra, £2.35 … made in Qiana, silky, smooth—epitomising that ’30’s feeling. The 10½ ‘Belmontine’ is a luxury candle in several colours. Price approx 85p per pair.
The witching hour—smock shirt dress, white birds flying on yards and yards of transparent black georgette, Alice Pollock for Quorum, £36.75. In her hair, crescent moon £3, and a flash of lightning slide £5.25. Both from the House of Leonard.
Black, the old enchanter. Bewitching, mysterious, romantic. In velvet, satin and soft silk jersey. Dramatic alone or shouting with colour. That timeless black magic still weaves its ancient spell.
Hair by Leonard.
Photographed by Hiroshi.
Scanned from Flair, November 1971.
In best black style. Left : tailored single-breasted embossed velvet jacket, £16.75; matching skirt, £12.60; matching velvet hat £3.50. Brown tea rose, £1.05. All from Biba. Black thorn walking stick from a selection at Herbert Johnson. Right : Silver birds on black velvet blazer, £13.95, satin shirt with black cravat, £5.95; ankle length skirt, £4.95. All from Bus Stop. Sweeping ostrich feather hat by Edward Mann, £3.85.
Celia Birtwell printed Marocaine shirt by Ossie Clark for Quorum, £7.50. Red Poppies, 35p each, Fenwick.
Romantic panne velvet dress by Simon Massey, £16. White full-blown rose on black velvet ribbon, both from John Lewis. Black chenille snood, £1.95 Fenwick.
Graceful blouse with elasticated waist, over matching rayon flared skirt, £21.50 by Mary Quant. Silver diamante belt by Ken Lane, £21.50. Quant’s butterfly tights, Farfalla, 95p. Diamante paste clover leaf on black velvet ribbon, £7.90 by St Laurent Rive Gauche. Black ostrich feather, 55p Biba.
Printed shirtdress buttoned up with red hearts. By Gillian Richard, £9.50. Red heart necklace, £19 by Christian Dior. Sweeping black felt hat, by Buckle Under, £8.
For high coloured drama put black with traffic light colours : red, yellow green and strong electric blue. Wool jersey vest by Sydica at Miss Impact, £4.90. Heart necklace from Elle, £3.75.
Cotton velveteen shirt £9.75, and culottes £7.75. By Alistair Cowin. Jersey wool shirt by John Craig, £4.80. Black leather belt, Fenwick £2.45. Suede boots banded in red, yellow and green, Lilley and Skinner £10.95. Velvet cap by Malyard £5, pinned with red star by Corocraft, 99p.
Warming up to black, in strictly daytime mood, our model wears Guerlains Teint Dore for a real tawny tint, 99p with Juvena’s Sahara Sun Blush Colour Stick as a highlighter, £1.63. Her. eyelids are coloured in Boots No 7 Transparent Eye Tint, 40p, and her lipstick is Chanel Corail, 95p.
Wrap around, tie belted wool jacket. £10.50. Over red Oxford Bags £6.50. Both by Alastair Cowin. Tartan wool man’s scarf, Scotch House £1.25. Black suede beret by Malyard, £16.
The little black dress revamped by Jean Muir in crepe de chine with puffed sleeves, demure bow and flared skirt, £21. Black suede strappy shoes, Russell & Bromley, £19.95. Sheer black tights, Mary Quant, 65p. Rhinestone star, St Laurent Rive Gauche £2.50.
Tie round black wool midi coat, topstitched in white, £22. Matching trousers, £6.25. Both by Elgee. Black and white Orlon tweedy knit tunic jumper, Marks and Spencer £2.95. Herbert Johnson knitted wool cap, £2.50.
Black wool tent coat by Stirling Cooper for Sheraton £16.95. Black wool Kangol beret, 65p. Black and plum suede lace up shoes, Dolcis £8.95. On collar, cupid heart brooch, St Laurent Rive Gauche £14.
Black wool jersey nautical blazer, £15.25, over grey and white knitted wool trouser suit, £28.25. Both by Christopher McDonnell for Marrian-McDonnell. Mock mother of pearl clips, Biba 35p each.
black velvet smoking jacket, £10.50; ankle high skirt in red, yellow and black wool tartan, £5.75. Both from Bus Stop. Cupid heart brooch, Rive Gauche £14. White shetland jumper, £5.50 Scotch House.
Gillian Richard print midi with laces from Marshall & Snelgrove Just In, £12.12s. Silver butterfly pendant, £9.9s. and plastic rings, 3s. each, at Biba. Chiffon printed scarf, £5. Browns, W.1. Belt, £4.. Way In. S.W.1.
Don’t waste dresses like these by taking them someplace quiet. Give them all the freedom they want and a lot of personality and more besides. Just for once take something really special and show off!
Model is Lena Stengard.
Styled by Sue Hone.
Photographed by Jean-Claude Volpeliere.
Scanned from Petticoat, December 1970.
Cream and red printed crepe dress by Ossie Clark at Radley, £13.19s. from Quorum, S.W.3. Biba plastic rings, 3s. Cream silk embroidered shawl, 15s., Van-der Fransen, S.W.6. Gilt moth brooch from a selection at Biba, W.8.
Crepe floor-length dress, £9. at Bus Stop, London W.R. Velvet coat with star print, £12.12s., from Crowthers, W.8. Way In tie choker, £1.
Grey satin midi dress, £9.9s., from Biba, W.8. Black lace jacket, £5., Van der Fransen, S.W.6. Way In reversible choker, £2.2s.
Velvet midi dress with ribbons, £16.16s., from main branches of Wallis shops. Miss Selfridge choker, £1.2s.6d. Printed velvet hat with coins, £4.15s. at Way In, London S.W.1.
Gillian Richard striped lures vest with lurex dress, £12., from all branches of Irvine Sellars and branches of Owen Owen. Fringed scarf, £2.8s., from Biba, W.8. Snake belt from a selection at Laurence Corner.
Leather platform-soled shoe (left), £17.50; sandal, £17, both from Charles Jourdan, 47 Brompton Road, SW1; tights by Quant, 40p at Peter Robinson, Oxford Circus, W1.
Take a dekko at the accessories screaming their brilliant way across these pages. Nothing quiet, tasteful or ladylike, about them. Hard shocking pinks grating with parrot green, brilliant turquoise, electric blue, and Elvis Presley metallics. Shooting adrenalin into your get-up, so that you go. Hardly the gear to wear if you want to be a lady spy and overlooked.
Photographed by Marc Leonard.
Scanned from Vanity Fair, January 1972.
Bit of a rescan from about ten years ago, when I only seemed to scan the Terry de Havilland boots and the Derber shoes. Anyway, the whole spread is a delight and deserves to be seen. Also, for the millionth time, no I’m not making up magazines. Vanity Fair was a UK publication of the Sixties and Seventies which got absorbed into Honey magazine in the early Seventies. It has nothing to do with the earlier or later American/International magazine of the same name. Presumably as a defunct magazine name in a different country there were no copyright issues. It was also a work of absolute creative bloody genius in this early Seventies period (see the category tag for other scans, including an editorial by Saul Leiter).
n.b. I have omitted the image alluded to further down in the black and white section but haven’t edited the word so you can see why I have omitted it. My apologies for any offence caused.
Boots by Terry de Havilland, £17.50 and £22.50 at Derber, 79 Wardour Street, W1. Tights by Quant, 40p at Peter Robinson Oxford Circus, W1.
Two shoes by Dianyk, both £8.50 at Derber, 79 Wardour Street.
Belt made from hand woven tweeds, by Nigel Lofthouse, about £7.25 from Escalade, Brompton Road, SW3 .
Striped flat shoe by Pedro Garcia, about £6.95 at Derber’s, 79 Wardour Street, W1; sock by Cacharel, £1.70 at Galeries Lafayette, Regent Street, W1. Watch by Gay Designs, £6.95 at Escalade. Knitted glove, £2 Browns, 27 South Molton St, W1
Knitted hat; and shoebag, by Janice Peskett, both £6 at Countdown, 137 Kings Road, SW3. Plastic rings, £1 each at the Adrien Mann boutique, Dickins & Jones, Regent Street, W1.
‘Fifties sunglasses by Correna, £1.25 at D H Evans, Oxford Street, W1 ; pearls from 75p at the Adrien Mann boutique, Dickins & Jones, Regent St, W1; plastic brooch, 50p at Universal Witness, 167 Fulham Road, SW3; plastic bangles, 45p each at the Adrien Mann boutique, Dickins & Jones.
Hand-woven multi-coloured tweed and leather clutch bag by Nigel Lofthouse, £25 at Escalade, Brompton Road, SW3. Striped peep-toe shoe by Mary Quant £5.50 at R.P Ellen, Oxford Street.
Blue tartan shoe on metallic blue platform, £16.50, tweed shoe, £17.75, both by Manolo Blahnik for Zapata, 49 Old Church Street, SW3.
Yellow suede belt with paste umbrella buckle by Guy Taplin, £2.80 at Bourne and Hollingsworth. Striped gloves, £1.45 from Miss Selfridge, Duke Street.
Black knitted pedal-pushers, £5, by Crochetta at Knits and Leathers; black plastic shoes £5.99 at Derber; silver and perspex clutch bag by Nigel Lofthouse, £10 from Escalade.
Wide black buckled belt, £10 from Janet Ibbotson, 9 Pond Place SW3; red and black knitted tie by Evelyn Desbrueres for Gay Designs £7 at Escalade; glasses by Correna, £1.50 at Selfridges.
Purple velvet bow tie, £2.50 at James Drew, Burlington Arcade, SW1. Sunglasses by Correna, £1.50 at D H Evans.
Shoe-bag £1 at Knits and Leathers, 5 Harewood Place, W1; turquoise gloves by Kirgloves, 65p at John Lewis, Oxford Street; turquoise plastic bracelet, 77½p at Selfridge, Oxford Street.
Liz Eggleston 