Main image: Crepe-de-chine two-piece, £20. Shoes by Zapata, 49 Old Church St, London SW3
One thing that designer Antony Price really understands is pattern cutting : “I can think of a shape and create an optical illusion — people’s figures don’t change, clothes make figures.” Price, who designed all these clothes, wants women now to start looking artificially female, but “in a sumptuous way — this time it’s bosoms, hips and tiny waists”. He admits to being influenced by the Fifties and his ex-showgirl sister who lives in Miami and looks like his idol Jayne Mansfield. “The Fifties were less extreme, taste was incorporated into everything.” He wants shoes tall and dangerous like his own cowboy boots, but insists that his clothes (available direct or mail order from Che Guevara, 23 Kensington High St, W8) are comfortable. “What’s more comfortable than swimming costume tops?”
So, so good. Model, designer and photographer are the most perfect combination. It even has Manolo Blahnik shoes for good measure.
Model is Gala Mitchell.
Story by Valerie Wade.
Photographed by Karl Stoecker
Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, February 13th 1972.
Shiny one-piece outfit, £18. Shoes, Zapata.
Flocked nylon cocktail dress, £20.
Cotton suit that owes its shape totally to the cut, £18.
Batman Cire dress/cape, £20. Six inch boots, £25.
Deep V-necked ruched nylon dress, £12.99. 5-inch silver shoes, £18.
Pink and wild coat is hooded and all set to trap the unwary male. Borg coat by Henry Lehr, £17.50, trousers by Sujon, £9.50. His coat by C & A in suedette, £13.95. Hat by Locke, £5.25.
. . . or how to wear furs this winter without hurting your pet’s feelings.
There is nothing, absolute nothing quite like wrapping yourself in fur. As a sensuous experience, it is in the same class as a new love, old champagne or fresh truffles. But even the most hedonistic of women are relieved that the threatened species are no longer imported. Snow leopards, tigers and other cats can go their own way and sensibly sybaritic female will look for furs that are farmed, such as fox and mink. This winter, too, the fakes are so wayout and wildly coloured that only a girl without a heart could resist their charms, albeit synthetic. Perhaps that’s why the fur trade have taken the hint and dipped their favourite fox pelts in the dye pot, Furrier Maxwell Croft offers his explanation of the female urge to wear and the male urge to bestow furs: “For many men it is a primitive desire to see his woman in furs.”. Very nice,too.
Plenty to scoff at the end of the copy there, but oh goodness the clothes – the clothes! And the glorious photography of Alice Springs, whose work doesn’t turn up nearly enough for my liking.
Fashion by Deirdre McSharry.
Photographed by Alice Springs.
Scanned from Cosmopolitan, November 1972.
Kissin’ cousin to a polar bear, but lots slimmer, is this smashing white shaggy coat. Wear it with white flannel bags, an angora sweater and an even shaggier hat. Well-cut coat in Borg with stitched suede edges. By Marie France for Quorum, £36, Ossie Clark trousers £14, sweater £4. Hat by Diane Logan, £5, shoes from Sacha £7.99. Beads by Butler and Wilson. Mike’s coat from Just Men, £70. Trousers from Aquascutum, £14.50.
The shaggiest coat story of the season-outrageous powder pink number, worn over pink striped sweater and pleated skirt. The dog is also fake, Chi Chi’s own and christened Fifi by Mike. Borg coat by Biba, £15, sweater by Reldan £3.33, skirt by Crowthers £5.75. Beads by Loewe.
Chi Chi turns her back on the world in scooped dress by John Bates for Jean Varon, £22. White shaggy jacket in Lister’s synthetic, £13.75 by Weathergay. Photographed at Julie’s Restaurant, 135 Portland Rd, London W11 (01-22) 8331).
How to have that movie-star feeling. If you want the big star treatment – breakfast at Tiffany’s, diamonds as big as the Ritz – dress like a star in electric blue fox. Dress by Elle, £15. Fox coat by Dinni for Femina Furs, £295. Moonstone necklace at Butler and Wilson. His outfit by Aquascutum. Velvet jacket £38.50, shirt £10.50, cuff links from £3 50, trousers £12.50
Tea for two. Mike makes up to Chi Chi (that’s the model girl, not the coat) in her shaggy yellow number, worn with shiny striped shirt and mustard bags. Borg coat by Marie France for Quorum £23.50, shirt by Medusa £5.50, trousers by Sujon £9.50. Beads by Butler and Wilson. Photographed at The Royal Garden Hotel, London.
Enough to drive a man wild-a nutty fake fur, above right, with Fifties shoulders and swing back. Wear it nicely over mustard crêpe de chine shirt and peg-top trousers. Both by Sujon, shirt £13, trousers £9.50. Borg coat by Biba £25, beret, Diane Logan, £4.50, shoes, Sacha, £7.99. His coat, Aquascutum, £70, trousers C & A £3 95.
Enough to make Morgan the gorilla, jealous. (Remember A Suitable Case For Treatment?) Emerald green gorilla jacket in real-life Borg by Weathergay, £9.50 (right). Worn over slinky knit sweater and skirt from Ritva, £27 for the outfit. Blue shaggy beret by Diane Logan, £4.50. Mike’s sweater in blue and silver by Ritva, £18.50. Trousers from C & A £5.50.
Jealous cats show their ruffled furs. Chi Chi and Belinda act out the classic movie-star confrontation in their sequins and furs, Chi Chi in pleated taffeta with sequin bodice by Anne Tyrell for John Marks, £23.95; her boa is silver fox, ranch bred, price £70. Belinda’s fox is red, also from the ranch, price £45, both by Barbara Warner for Fab Furs. Strapless top and trousers by Miss Mouse, £20. Beads by Loewe.
Emerald green pullover in pure wool, with multicoloured flying parrot, John and Molly Dove for Jasper, £8.40.
The knitwear industry has at long last pulled its needles out and has amazed us all with the most brilliant, zappy knits ever. One-colour sweaters have gone back where they came from—now you need at least three colours, and the brightest, most startling design you can find. Take your pick from oozing cream buns, bold geometric stripes and pyramids and all kinds of technicolour patterns—why leave parrots to the pet shops?
Photographed by Tony Moussoulides.
Scanned from Honey, August 1971.
Stripey rainbow knitted pure wool pullover, Annie Cossins, £5.95. Mr Freedom, Kensington Church Street, W8.
Mulberry and cinnamon Acrylic sweetheart sweater Janine at Harold Ingram, £2.25
Clockwise from top left: Brilliant block printed Acrylic mini sweater, Erica Budd, £3.90. / Hot orange wool boucle sweater with a cream cake motif, Crochetta, £8. / Scarlet heart patterned wool sweater, Annie Cossins, £5.95. Mike Magic, Kensington Super Store, W8 / Quartered Orlon jockey sweater, Erica Budd, £3.50. / Pyramid printed Acrylic sweater, John Craig, £4. / Zig-zag patterned Acrylic pullover, McCaul, £5. / Clingy bright blue wool boucle sweater with road sign motif, Crochetta, £8. / Lightning Superman printed Acrilan sweater, Syndica, £4.
Lazy daisy embroidered wool sweater in pink, navy and yellow. Mary Quant. £6.
Pure white wool sweater with scar:et and navy flower embroidered sleeves Alice Pollock, £7.
Pooh Bear mini Acrilan sweater in bottle green and canary yellow, Mary Quant, £3.
Tailored diamond jacquard midi suit, Sheriloyd 10½gns. ; cream silk cravat, Jacqmar, 47s. 6d. ; sheer plum tights, Mary Quant 10s. ; triple bar patent shoes, Saxone, 89s. 11d. ; smart velour hat, Herbert Johnson, 95s. ; amber bow brooch, Hope and Eleanor, 45s.
After seasons and seasons of dresses and trousers, suits are back with us again. But the new generation of suits is quite different from any we’ve worn before; sexily elongated with midi skirts and slender waisted jackets, in jacquard jerseys and patterned wools. Suddenly suits are younger, smarter – the newest way to get yourself looking together.
Photographed by Morgan Rank.
Scanned from Honey, November 1970.
Dusty pink wool jersey midi suit with fluted lilac and pink striped jacket, Stirling Cooper, 10 gns. ; cream jacquard knit shirt, Clobber, 87s. 6d. : wavy plum and white leather belt, Simon Suede, 63s.: sheer plum tights, Berkshire, 7s. ; walnut patent silver buckle court shoes, Ravel. £5 19s. 11d.
Plum and navy flower-chain suit, Bus Stop, £8 10s. ; plum velour hat, Herbert Johnson, 95s. ; plain brown leather gloves, Dents, 57s. 6d. ; sheer black coffee tights, Wolford, 13s. ; walnut laced shoes, Ravel, £5 19s. 11d.
Zipped-up Dacron and wool jacquard jacket, 10 gns., with matching midi kilt, 6 gns., both by Gladrags : geometric crepe scarf Sarah Jane. 56s.
Yellow crepe blouse by Antony Price at Che Guevara, £5. Sky blue floral patterned skirt with plain blue panels, from Universal Witness, £6. Black bead necklace from a selection at Emmerton and Lambert. Sunglasses are the model’s own.
Rock around the tops that look as though they’ve come straight from the era of the hand-jive and Radio Luxembourg. That’s because our bright young designers have revived such golden oldies as the off-the-shoulder sweater and the shirtwaister blouse. So just add dirndl skirts, popper bead bracelets, swing out in hoop earrings, and we’ll see you later, alligator…
I am sorry to say that I don’t know the name of the model in this spectacular editorial, but I’m pretty sure that she’s the same model as in the video for Stuck in the Middle With You by Stealer’s Wheel. She of the gratuitous eclair-eating – and the most incredible platform shoes I’ve ever seen. It’s safe to say that I was captivated by her look in that video when I was a teenager (with an unhealthy fixation on watching VH1 rather than MTV). So if anyone knows her name, do let me know!
Edited to add, thank you to those who identified her as Jenny Gaylor, I’m eternally grateful.
Photographed by Roger Charity.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, October 1971.
Off-the-shoulder red and white striped woollen sweater, £4.50. Red crepe pencil skirt fastens down the back with large white buttons, £6. Both by Phyllis Collins at Stirling Cooper. White vanity case by Antler, £7.25. Cotton scarves, from Gamages, 35p each.
Black and white striped voile shirt with batwing sleeves and pintucks at the waist, by Antony Price at Che Guevara, £5. Violet satin skirt, from Universal Witness, £7.50. Black and white spotted cotton hankie, from Herbert Johnson, 40p. Button brooch, designed for Zandra Rhodes by Mick Mulligan.
Emerald green and white striped woolen sweater with ties at shoulders, £4.50. Matching satin jersey pencil skirt with buttons down the back, £6. Both by Phyllis Collins at Stirling Cooper. Hoop earrings by Adrien Mann, £1.50. Necklace by Funny Bijou at Titfers, £1.50. Silver bow ring by Mick Milligan at Mr Freedom.
A white cotton lace dress by Mexicana, seen in the tranquil green surroundings of Mount Kennedy in Co. Wicklow.
Many designers look increasingly to the past for their inspiration, and, to find suitable backgrounds for modern clothes. Fashion Editor Cherry Twiss took a selection to Ireland where, with the help of the Irish Georgian Society, she discovered magical, timeless settings for the newest fashions.
“Upgathering Feather-like frills, they step demure as nuns, Nor heed the menacing eyes on every side, Dead set unceasingly like levelled guns. Truly I think each woman is a bird.” Seamus O’Sullivan, Birds.
As always, no shouting at the me for the furs please. Pretend they’re fake. Enjoy the pretty clothes and landscapes instead…
Plaits by Tovar Tresses at Miss Selfridge.
Hair by Roger at Vidal Sassoon.
Make-up by Estee Lauder.
Photographed by Anders Holmquist.
Scanned from The Telegraph Magazine, August 21st 1970.
Lofty ancestral staircase at Mount Ievers, Co. Clare makes a beautiful, subdued setting for Baccarat’s pleated skirt and printed suede tunic. The laced boots are by Deliss.
Recalling former glories at Dollardstown, a drifting Ascher silk giselle dress, all frills and flounces, designed by Gina Fratini and worn with a beaded choker. Taffeta boots from The Chelsea Cobbler.
Mount Ievers, reflected in its own pool, speaks for the brooding timelessness of old Ireland. The black velvet Diorling midi suit is worn with a winged, onyx clip. The black silk boots are made by Deliss.
Feather like frills in the tangled splendour of the grounds of Dollardstown, Co. Meath. Black pleated organza cape and dress by Nettie Vogues. Boots by Deliss.
At the gates of Mount Ievers, a swirling tweed cape, fringed in black wool, by the House of Worth. Leather boots by Deliss.
Pale blue sisal hat with peacock feathers, by Buckle Under Enterprises, £10. Rayon crepe de Chine long-sleeved dress with multi-coloured wild flowers on a navy blue background with ribbons on its tie belt, by Sujon, £14.50. Red tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. White wet-look ankle-strap wedge sandals. from Ravel. £5.99.
Fresh and pretty is the look you should aim for this summer, with maybe an inch or two of knee bravely peeping out from under floral prints on crepe de Chine or crisp cotton. Match your dress with brightly coloured tights and wear straw hats adorned with bunches of fruit and flowers, or a silk scarf and wedge shoes to complete your summer ensemble.
Photographed by Duc.
Scanned from 19 Magazine, June 1971.
Cream sisal hat with flowers. by Buckle Under Enterprises, £10. Dress with bodice gathered into half yoke at front and a long sash tie, in crepe de Chine with pale pink and lemon flowers on a black background, by Crowthers, £11.50. Blue tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. White leather wedge shoes, from Ravel, £7.50. Red sisal hat, from Crowthers, £3.50. Floral printed short-sleeved crêpe de Chine dress in pastel colours, with artificial flowers on a décolleté neckline, by Crowthers, £11.25. Yellow tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. Wedge shoes, from Ravel, £7.50.
Straw hat from Crowthers, £3.50. Floral printed cotton dress with green, white and yellow flowers on puffed sleeves and skirt has a bodice of black cotton jersey, by Get, £5.50. Blue tights by Ballito, 40p. Yellow espadrilles, by Yves St. Laurent, £8.90. Navy cotton hankie tied over eyes by Herbert Johnson, 40p. Straw hat from Biba, £1.25. Cotton dress with red and yellow lowered print of puffed sleeves and skirt has a bodice of black cotton jersey, by Get, £5.50. Yellow tights by Ballito, 40p. Red espadrilles with rope wedge heels, by Yves St. Laurent, £8.90. Artificial flowers on hat, from Biba, £1.05 each.
Red cotton Liberty print smock with drawstring neck and patch pockets, by Foale and Tuffin, £15.50. White leather shoes, from Ravel, £7.50. Cotton dress in panels of three different Liberty prints, by Foale and Tuffin, £14. White leather shoes, from Ravel, £7.50. Rayon crepe de Chine dress with floral print, by Sujon, £14.50. White wet-look patent shoes, from Ravel, £5.99. Sisal hats, from Browns, £7. Silk scarves, by Jasper, £3.50. Tights, by Mary Quant, 75p. Hoola Hoops from Hamleys, London, W.1.
Beige sisal hat by Buckle Under Enterprises, £10. Sunshine yellow moss crepe dress with embroidered flowers at each side of the shirred, smocked-look front panel, by Florrie Carr, £9. Yellow tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Ankle-strap wedge sandals, from Ravel, £5.99.
Red sisal hat from Crowthers, £3.50. Floral crepe de Chine dress with a double collar, pin-tucked pleats, and thin tie belt, by Gillian Richard, £6.87. Grey tights by Mary Quant, 75p. White wedge shoes from Ravel, £7.50. Cream sisal hat from Browns, £7. Rayon dress with red poppies on a blue background, gathered into a square yoke, by Lee Bender for Bus Stop, £6.95. Red tights by Mary Quant, 75p. Wedge shoes from Ravel, £7.50. Red hankie around hat, from Herbert Johnson, 40p.
Left: Winceyette dress, Mary Quant, £14,15. Miss Selfridge. Hat, Britannia Land of Plenty. Quant tights, 75p. Ankle boots, Anello & Davide, £7.75. Far left: Top, Richard Green, £4.75. Way In. Wool pants, Mary Quant £6.60, Simpsons, W1. Hat, Diane Logan, £4.50. Quant tights, £1.50. Clogs, £5.99 Leicester Shoes at Up West, W1. (Inset: Winceyette dungarees, Gordon King, £7.54, Irvine Sellers. Cardigan Marshall London £4.50, Guys and Dolls. Beret, Kangol £1.40. Biba bracelet. Quant angora sox, 50p. Clogs £5.99, Leicester Shoes. Tom & Jerry dress, Travers Tempos, £5.90. Dickins and Jones, WI. Hat, Feathers, £6.50. Quant sox 50p. Slingback flatties, Bata, £7.99).
Winceyette steps gently from bedtime to daytime with a magic story to tell about dungarees and smocks, dresses and skirts. The prints are childlike, the colours soft and while they conjure up memories of long-ago nurseries they will make you everything that is adult and feminine.
Photographs taken at Pollock’s Toy Museum, Scala St., W1
Fashion by Marcia Brackett.
Photographed by John Carter.
Scanned from Petticoat, 12th August 1972.
House print smock top, Jeff Banks, £10, Fenwicks, W1. Wool pants, Mary Quant, £6.60. Simpsons W1. Hair comb, tailpieces 25p. Bilbo calf boots £9. Long winceyette skirt with kitten hem, Gordon King, £5.45 at Miss Selfridge. Airplane top, Maggi of London £4.30, at all branches of Snob. Pull-on hat Feathers. Angora sox Quant, 50p. Leather slip-ons, Samm, £8.95.
Striped top in winceyette with batwing sleeves, Dranella, £6.85 and pants, £7.10 at Miss Selfridge, W1. Scarf, £1 at Van der Fransen. Suede clogs, £4.99, Leicester shoes, Up West, Wl. Winceyette floral top, Traver Tempos 15.90, Sidney Smith, SW3. Wool Oxford bags Richard Green, £5.90, Way In. Necklace, Paul Stephens. Biba Bracelet, Edward Mann angora pull-on hat £2.60. Biba shoes £6.20.
Winceyette teddy print smock and matching skirt, Travers Tempos, £4.50 each at Sidney Smith SW3. Necklace from Britannia Land of Plenty SW3. Hair combs, Tailpieces 25p. Mary Quant shoes. Teddy pants and panelled top, Travers Tempos £8.50 at Sidney Smith SW3. Felt bowler Edward Mann £2.80. Swan brooch Britannia Land of Plenty.
Winceyette pyjama top, £6.60 and pants, £6.60 with kitten trim, Gordon King, Miss Selfridge, Quant sox, 50p. Hair slides, Tailpieces, 10p. Jersey dress with floral panels in winceyette, Gillian Richard, £8 at Way In. Quant wool tights £1.50. Bilbo midi boots, £9.
For those who fancy a smooth summer Suliman have made their entire collection in pure Chinese silk. It is a man-and-wife firm, Sam Suliman designing the fabrics – the abstract patterns are hand-painted – and June the clothes. Sam finds this silk perfect for his luminous, sultry colours, which he uses in 15 variations. Everything is hand-washable and available in sizes 8-12 direct and by mail order from Suliman, 48 Maddox Street, London WI , and from Emma Somerset, 5 Police Street, Manchester.
Styled by Valerie Wade
Photographed by Sacha.
Scanned from The Sunday Times Magazine, 28th May 1972.
Plain quilted jacket with hand-painted oval yoke, £17.50.
Identically shaped gypsy shirts, £12.50 each, worn with short quilted waistcoats, £9.50 each.
Flimsy blouse with an elasticated waistband, £10.50, made of one of a variety of hand-painted fabrics also used for gypsy blouses, long skirts, dresses, baggy pants and quilted jackets. Worn with plain skirt, £9.50.
Left: White cotton edged with red, lots of frills tied up with bandanna bows. By Rosie Bradford, about £15, at Quorum; Che Guevara. Fine white straw, £10, Herbert Johnson. White ribbed gloves, Kir, 75p. Red and white striped canvas shoes laced onto a high wooden platform, £12.50, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Right: Three deep cotton frills and a halter bodice edged and tied in red. By Sheridan Barnett for Simon Massey, £9.95. Small white straw, £8.50, Herbert Johnson. Peppermint earrings and clips by Adrien Mann, about £1, at Marshall & Snelgrove. White block and string shoes, £7.75, Manolo Blahnik for Zapata. Helanca gloves, Kir, 75p. Hat pins, from a selection at The Purple Shop.
more of it, less of it, what there is of it, frilled.
Preview of new white shapes you’ll be seeing when the sun’s hot: all cut out, cropped or split, beginning with flamenco frills piped in with red.
Well, it may not be May any more but this editorial feels perfect for the current weather. And those Manolo Blahnik for Zapata shoes? Pass the smelling salts…
Hair by John at Leonard.
Photographed at the Serpentine Gallery, Kensington Gardens
Photographed by Peter Knapp.
Scanned from Vogue, May 1972.
Left: Small cotton broderie anglaise blouse under the shelter of a big frilled collar, with a thin gabardine skirt split front and back. Blouse, Stirling Cooper, £4.25, at Peter Robinson. Skirt, Screaming Mimi, £6.50, exclusively for Granny Takes a Trip. White Openwork Helanca gloves, Kir, 80p, at Dickins & Jones. White shoes, £7, Bilbo. Hat, £10, Herbert Johnson. Right: Buttoned padded halter bodice, edged and buttoned in scarlet. White pleated Colonial cotton shorts, buckled each side. Bodice by Rosie Bradford, about £7, at Quorum ; Che Guevara. Shorts, £5.95, Bus Stop. White patent shoes, £16.50, Saint Laurent Rive Gauche. White straw, £11.50, Herbert Johnson. Hat pins from range, The Purple Shop.
Wide wide cotton trousers gathered on elastic, a gathered cotton halter top, the edge let go to frill. By Pablo & Delia, £18, at Browns. White peep-toe shoes, £7, detachable bow £1 extra, at Bilbo. Hat, £8.50, Herbert Johnson. Earrings, Adrien Mann. Laced cuffed Helanca gloves by Kir, 75p, at Derry & Toms
Liz Eggleston 