Flannel as a Platform for Colour

1970s, Adrian Mann, Alan Rodin, bally, Buckle Under, bus stop, christopher mcdonnell, edward mann, Elliott, emcar, Escalade, flair magazine, Frank Murphy, georgina linhart, harold ingram, harriet, John Craig, Joseph, Juliet Dunn, kangol, lee bender, Mark Russell, mary quant, Muira, Mulberry, Pringle, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, Vintage Editorials

Jersey wrap around jacket, Georgina Linhart £15.50. Shirt, Richard Green £5.50. Sleeveless sweater, Harold Ingram £2.20. Prince of Wales skirt, Emcar £22.50. Shoes, Elliott £15.95. Velour hat, Buckle Under £8.50. Clutch bag, £1.60 by Escalade. / Wool tweed jacket £20.50; wool tweed skirt £10.25, both by Christopher McDonnell. Shirt, John Craig £4.50. Wool cardigan, Harold Ingram £3.25. Hat £5.95; cotton scarf 45p, both by Herbert Johnson. Shoes, Russell & Bromley £14.95. Clutch bag, Escalade £10.75.

Bright girls use their grey matter and use flannel as a platform for colour

Photographed at St. Pancras Station, London. Hair by Gerald at Evansky.

Photographed by Frank Murphy.

Scanned from Flair, September 1972.

Wool flannel double breasted jacket and matching bags, John Marks £14.95. Acrilan jersey shirt, 14.49 ; striped V neck sleeveless wool sweater, £3.50, both by John Craig. Angora pull on, Kangol £1.10. Leather knee boots, Sacha £9.99. Canvas striped shoulder bag, Mulberry £3.50. Flower printed wool cardigan jacket with tie belt and matching pleated skirt, Alan Rodin £19. Striped silky shirt, Joseph £7.50. Striped cloche, Marida £2.80. String of pearls, Adrien Mann £1. Patent shoes, Russell & Bromley £17. Leather clutch bag, Mulberry £7. Tights, Mary Quant 75p. Bangles, Paul Stephens 10p each. Telephone wire bangle, Escalade 40p.

Right: Flannel tie belted jacket, £13.50; checked trousers, £5.50, both by Alan Rodin. Spotted silky shirt, Joseph £7.50. Velour cloche, Buckle Under £8.50. Leather knee boots, Sacha £9.99. Pearl choker, Adrien Mann £1. Leather clutch bag, Cingula £9.50. Wool flannel stitched shirt styled jacket with matching pants, Muira £12.50. Long Giselle scarf, Ascher £4.25. Leather knee boots, Sacha £9.99. Leather shoulder bag, Terry Davis £11. Shopping information page 82.

Striped flannel cardigan jacket with matching pleated skirt, Mary Quant £12. Striped silky shirt, Joseph £7.50. Scoop neck long sleeved lambswool jumper, Pringle £9. Tights, Mary Quant 75p. Thin leather belt, Mulberry £2.20. Patent leather shoes, Russell & Bromley £17. Printed pull on hat, Edward Mann £3.20. Telephone wire choker, Escalade £1. Leather clutch bag, Mulberry £7. Bangles, Paul Stephens 10p each. Flannel cape-sleeved wool dress with checked insets, Harriet £9.45. Peachbloom breton style hat, Buckle Under £11. Tights, Mary Quant 75p. Leather clutch bag with perspex buckle, Cingula £9.50. Printed Acri-lan jersey shirt, £4.91; button-through long sleeved matching cardigan, £4.49, both by John Craig. Two-tone patent shoes, Russell & Bromley £19. Long string of pearls, Adrien Mann £2.70

Striped flannel belted jacket, £5.95; matching pants £5.95, both by Bus Stop. Dicel satin waistcoat, £6; matching pink silk spotted shirt, £7.50; white Dicel satin tie, £2, all by Juliet Dunn. Patent and suede lace-up shoes, Bally £7.95. Leather clutch bag, Mulberry £7.Wraparound wool coat with tie belt, Mark Russell £28.50. Tights, Mary Quant 75p. Pearl choker, Adrien Mann £1. Patent leather shoes, Russell & Bromley £17. Long Giselle scarf, Ascher £4.25. Horn bangles, Escalade £2.50 each. Luggage from a selection at Liberty.

Step in Time

1970s, Bata, boots, Charman Boots, Jean Claude Volpeliere, mary quant, Mr Wik, petticoat magazine, platforms, ravel, Russell & Bromley, Sacha, shoes, Sue Hone

Suede shoes and leather platform, Sacha, £5.99, with Quant cover-up tights, 75p. / Sacha leather boots, with no parking stripes, £12.99, with Quant cover-up tights, Peter Robinson. / Suede Jumbo boots, £14, order from Charman boots, 26, Hartland Road, NW1. Quant cover-up tights, 75p. / Sacha ankle-strap shoes with high heels, £6.99, with Quant tights, 75p. from Fenwicks, W1. / Suede laced clog-boot, £8.80. Mr. Wik, 8 St. Alphage High Walk, EC1. with Quant cover-up tights, 75p. / Bata suede shoes with heart applique, £4.49, with Quant striped ribbed sox, 90p from Peter Robinson. / Sacha suede and leather gaucho wedge boots, £10.99 with Quant tights. / Suede crepe-soled shoes, £5.50 from Ravel branches. Quant tights, 75p from Hammonds of Hull. / Quilted suede gaucho boots, Russell and Bromley shops, £32, with Quant cover up tights, 75p. / Tri-colour suede slipons, Sacha shops, £5.99 with Quant multicoloured striped sox, 75p, from Fenwicks W1. / Suede court shoes, Bata, £4.49, Quant bee tights, 75p. / Emma suede boots, £16.50.

Autumn’s first boots and shoes, taking a backward look at the Fifties and beyond, a forward glance at what the later Seventies will bring. But you don’t need us to tell you the way things are going . . . just take a look at the pictures. Step out in those fantastic clumpie soles and vamps, lots of shady suedes and all the pretty quilting, patterning and painting you like.

(Before you ask, all of them please!)

Fashion Sue Hone.

Photographed by Jean Claude Volpeliere

Scanned from Petticoat, 4th September 1971.

Jeanz Meanz

1970s, Boston-151, caroline arber, Electric Fittings, Emmerton and Lambert, Inspirational Images, Jigsaw, Kansai Yamamoto, Landlubber, margit brandt, mary quant, mr freedom, South Sea Bubble, The Westerner, Vintage Editorials, Vogue, Wild Mustang Co.

Properly faded blue jeans at Emmerton and Lambert. Bright red braces at Mr Freedom. T-shirt by Kansai Yamamoto at Boston-151. Cowboy boots at The Westerner.

Jeanz Meanz summertime, anytime, new blues, faded blues, long legs, a look that’s sexy, tough, goes with workshirt or Saint Laurent blazer, a bright old idea that began with the Gold Rush and just keeps on looking great…

Photographed by Caroline Arber.

Scanned from Vogue, July 1971.

Blue jeans and cotton battle shirt by Jigsaw. Blue cotton singlet, Boston-151. Brown suede boots by Mary Quant.

Mid blue cotton jeans by South Sea Bubble. Stripe vest, Margit Brandt for Scorpio. / Thick brushed denim jeans from Wild Mustang at Take Six. Tartan shirt by Electric Fittings.

Denim blue jeans by Landlubber. Plaid shirt by Electric Fittings. Leather boots from Mr Freedom.

The Main Attraction

19 magazine, 1970s, biba, Brosseau, bus stop, crowthers, edward mann, florrie carr, Fogg and Wakefield, Harri Peccinotti, harriet, Herbert Johnson, hollywood clothes shop, Ian Batten, Inspirational Images, Jasper, Jean Charles Brosseau, Jolly and Marsh, kensington market, lee bender, Marielle, mary quant, ravel, Rosie Nice, Sacha, Sportaville, Titfers, universal witness, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials

Red spotty blouse in burnt out crepe, worn over black, red and white printed Dycella skirt by Ian Batten at Sportaville. Red tights by Lovely Lady. Scarf by Jasper. Black leather t-bar shoes from Sacha. Bag and bangles from a selection at Jolly and Marsh. Sweetheart brooch from Universal Witness. / Red cloche hat by Titfers. Dress in three different prints by Van der Fransen. Tights by Mary Quant. Shoes by Sacha. Red gloves from Van der Fransen. Necklace and bangles from Jolly and Marsh, Kensington Market. / Little pink bows on a white moss crepe dress by Florrie Carr. Artificial flowers in hair are by Fogg and Wakefield.

The main attraction of this summer’s printed dress is their little-girl, Sunday-best quality. The star fabric is floral crepe-de-Chine, now beautifully revived, featuring softly shaped skirts, Peter Pan collars and puff sleeves.

Another flawless example of early Seventies nostalgia for the Thirties and Forties, which might seem frivolous or twee if it wasn’t in the talented hands of Mr Peccinotti.

Photographed by Harri Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, March 1971.

Multi coloured rayon crepe dress from a nearly new selection at Van der Fransen. Blue suede shoes by Mary Quant. / Calf-length crepe de Chine dress by Marielle. Black leather high heeled shoes from The Hollywood Clothes Shop. / Yellow sisal hat by Jean-Charles Brosseau. Crepe de Chine dress by Mary Quant. Lilac suede shoes by Mary Quant.

Brown cotton voile dress and tights by Mary Quant. White strappy sandals by Ravel. / Brown rayon jersey dress by Ian Batten at Sportaville. Beige suede slingbacks by Mary Qant. Scarf from a selection at Rosie Nice, Kensington Market. / Navy felt hat from Herbert Johnson. Navy spotted rayon crepe dress from Van der Fransen. Brown suede shoes by Sacha. / Lilac cloche by Edward Mann. Rayon georgette blouse and purple velvet skirt both from Crowthers. Mauve patent sandals from Ravel.

Brown printed georgette suit from Bus Stop. Green leather wedge heeled shoes from The Hollywood Clothes Shop. / Burgundy felt hat from Herbert Johnson. Black georgette suit from Bus Stop. Black three bar shoes by Sacha. / Green straw hat from a selection at Van der Fransen. Rayon georgette dress by Mary Quant. Green leather shoes from The Hollywood Clothes Shop. / Yellow hat by Jean-Charles Brosseau. Red, white and bloue dress by Ian Batten at Sportaville. Patent wedge sandals by Ravel.

Pale mustard puff sleeved dress by Biba. Brown patent two-strap shoes by Sacha. Scarf by Jasper. / Cream sisal hat by Bermona. Black tea dance dress with delicate white flowery print by Biba. White leather sandals by Ravel. / Navy felt hat from Herbert Johnson. Navy cotton dress by Harriet. Black shoes from The Hollywood Clothes Shop.

Bare Essentials

19 magazine, 1970s, Abecita, barbara hulanicki, Barbara Hulanicki, che guevara, Derber, Fenwick, Harri Peccinotti, Inspirational Images, janet reger, lingerie, mary quant, platforms, Sacha, shoes, universal witness, Vintage Editorials

Orange and white spotted bra and pants by Mary Quant. Blue leather shoes with sequin encrusted heels and platforms from Derber. / Blue and white spotted bra and pants set by Mary Quant. Black and white spotted peeptoe shoes from Biba. Black patent leather shoes covered with fake diamonds and silver leather shoes with silver sequins on heels and platforms, both by Derber. Blue felt hat with embroidered flower from Universal Witness.

Your poor old great grandma used to wear corsets with lots of complicated lacing and back-piercing whale bones! Fortunately for you, such constricting garments are history, and the accent is now on complete and utter freedom. In fact, you could say underwear has become a second skin – and we prove our point with the following…

It’s nice to know that Harri Peccinotti still has the capacity to blow me away with a new-old photoshoot. Of course, insanely high and sparkly platform shoes and silky underwear plays a large part in that, but the mood he captures is second to none. I wonder if I will ever not believe that this aesthetic is the ultimate?

Photographed by Peccinotti.

Scanned from 19 Magazine, April 1973.

Green silk shorts with leaf print by Janet Reger (matching bra not shown). Blue metallic platform peep toe shoes with silver spot trim by Sacha. / Cream crepe de chine bra and pants, with pink and green cloud print pattern, by Janet Reger. Suede ‘Forties’ platform shoes with beaded sides by Terry de Havilland.

Green, yellow and pale orange striped bra and pants set by Abecita of Sweden. / Gold halter neck bra and shorts set by Abecita of Sweden. Blue felt hat from Universal Witness. Knee socks from Che Guevara.

The Kaleidoscopic Knit Show

2007, Adrian Mann, Alain Walsh, Barnett, clowns, crowthers, Dranella, erica budd, Flair, Hedgehog, Henry Miura, Honey Magazine, Jasper, jeff banks, John Craig, Joseph, mary quant, mr freedom, Originelle, sally levison, Smart'n'Tartan, st honore, Tabu, Vintage Editorials, wallis

Jet black pullover with fluted cap sleeves, Barnett from Wakeford’s, King’s Road, SW3. Billowing sleeved crepe shirt, St Honore. / Stripey Acrilan sweater, Tabu, from Originelle Gloucester Road, SW7. Tangerine crepe shirt, St Honore; ship brooch, Mr Freedom; striped cloche, Levison Originals. Both shirts from Flair, Golders Green Road.

Brighter and brighter, the new brand of knits is coming. Bolder than ever, with huge batwing sleeves, flaring kimono arms and rainbow stripes. Piled on top of one another or over a striking shirt – without any doubt the greatest knits ever seen.

I don’t know about you, but clown and circus-influenced editorials are one of my favourite themes and really quite a staple of the late Sixties and early Seventies youth magazine boom.

Photographed at Foire & Cirque de Rancy, France.

Photographed by Alain Walch.

Scanned from Honey, February 1972.

Khaki wool cricket sweater, Miura from Hedgehog, 135 Fulham Road, SW3. Strawberry-patterned cotton shit, Dranella. / Ice cream coloured Acrylic sweater, Jeff Banks from 2007, Oxford Street, W1. Ladybird cotton shirt, Jasper.

Square necked acrylic sweater, Erica Budd. Full sleeved crepe shirt, St Honore. / Patriotic striped Acrylic sweater from Crowthers, Kensington High Street, W8. Patchwork print cotton shirt, Jasper from Sidney Smith, King’s Road, SW3.

Bright red batwing Orlon sweater, Erica Budd. Ladybird cotton shirt, Jasper. Moon and star plastic brooch, Adrien Mann. / Confetti spotted and striped pullover and scarlet vest, both by John Craig from Joseph, King’s Road, SW3. Lemon brooch, Paul Stephens; bee brooch, Adrien Mann.

Kingfisher blue sweater, Erica Budd from Smart’n’Tartan, Upwest, Oxford Street W1. Goldfish brooch, Adrien Mann. / Navy sweater with small batwing sleeves, Mary Quant from Dickens & Jones. Wild strawberry cotton shirt, Dranella.

Pillar box red and bright yellow Dralon sweater from Wallis. / Navy, scarlet and light blue Acrylic sweater, John Craig from 2007 Oxford Street, W1.

Love Forty

1960s, Berkertex, Daniel Hechter, Foale and Tuffin, George Malyard, Graham Smith, helmut newton, Inspirational Images, Ken Lane, Malyard, Marlborough, mary quant, Queen magazine, Rayne, Vintage Editorials

White crepe dress by Berkertex. Jewelled snood by Graham Smith.

The clothes of the Thirties were capricious, narcissistic and extravagant — the jazz of the Twenties turning soft, like swing – but with the wartime Forties they necessarily became austere and functional.

To compensate, the details kept their extravagance – shirred waists, sweetheart necks, floppy sleeves, Veronica Lake hair.

On this and the following pages we have a minor Forties revival – minor because these clothes are strictly 1968, when women want to dress both practically and frivolously.

I do not endorse this copy, because I would not agree about the clothes of the Thirties being ‘narcissistic’, but I do endorse the photos and the clothes.

Photographed by Helmut Newton.

Scanned from Queen, July 31st 1968.

Red crepe dress by Foale and Tuffin. Hat by Malyard.

Red wool crepe dress by Foale and Tuffin. Gilt snake bracelets by Ken Lane.

Black crepe dress by Daniel Hechter for Bagatel. Beret by Malyard. Shoes by Rayne.

Black checked beige crepe dress with bloused sleeveless top, by Marlborough. Black beret by Mary Quant for Kangol.

Peasant in the Sun

1970s, Bata, Bermona, biba, Britannia Land of Plenty, Buckle Under, chelsea cobbler, clobber, Diane Logan, Elliott, hampstead bazaar, Inca, laura ashley, Marielle, mary quant, miss mouse, Pamela Dennis, petticoat magazine, rae spencer cullen, ravel, Richard Green, Roger Charity, Russell & Bromley, Souk, Splinters, Sue Hone, van der fransen, Vintage Editorials

Mary Quant pinny worn over cheesecloth dress at The Souk. Britannia Land of Plenty silver armband. Buckle Under hat. Ravel shoes / Cheese cloth shirt and matching skirt by Richard Green. Woolworths hairnet. Buckle Under hat. Russell and Bromley shoes.

Summer’s peasant clothes come in brightly frilled cotton or in soft layers of cheesecloth with a bazaar of sunny straws and beads.

Fashion by Sue Hone.

Photographed by Roger Charity.

Scanned from Petticoat, 6th June 1972.

Souk pinny. Calico shirt with starry ribbon trim from Splinters. / Embroidered smock at Inca. Richard Green cheesecloth skirt. Waistcoat from Inca. Ravel suede sandals.

Miss Mouse seeksucker dress. Diane Logan boater. Biba false flowers. / Miss Mouse gingham dress. Bermona straw boater. Chelsea Cobbler wedge sandals.

Embroidered dress by Souk. Buckle Under Bowler. Britannia Land of Plenty shoulder bag. Elliotts sandals. / Midi skirt and cheesecloth dress at Souk. Inca wool belt. Buckle Under crochet cap. Bata sandals.

Long embroidered skirt with gathered waist from Hampstead Bazaar. Cheesecloth top by Clobber. Embroidered beret from Britannia Land of Plenty. Elliotts sandals. Straw bag from Inca. / Long checked cheesecloth dress by Marielle. Glass flower brooch from Van der Fransen.

Laura Ashley skirt. Calico smock by Pamela Dennis. Forbidden Fruit belt. / Laura Ashley top and skirt. Silk shawl from Britannia Land of Plenty. Shoes by Ravel.

The Prettiest Prints

1970s, baccarat, caroline charles, Colin Glascoe, Foale and Tuffin, Ginger Group, Harrods, Inspirational Images, Jeany, Kati at Laura Phillips, Liza Spain, mary quant, mr fish, Peter Saunders Catalogue, Vintage Editorials, Woman's Journal

Two of summer’s new romantics, long, loose and floating in Sanghaneri Jaipur voile. Both by Colin Glascoe.

Bunches of summer flowers; delicate patterns and prints; and myriad beautiful shades are the ingredients. Mixed to perfection, they make up this – the prettiest mélange of summer dresses.

Photographed by Jeany.

Hair styles by Susi at Violet Adair.

Scanned from Woman’s Journal, July 1971.

Left: Scoop neck dress of Liberty printed cotton Right: Skirt and long sleeved blouse in Liberty printed cotton, worn with long reversible turncoat. All from Foale and Tuffin.

:eft: Exclusive Rajistani Jaipur hand printed dress on cotton voile from the Peter Saunders Catalogue. Right: Flowered cotton dress by Kati at Laura Phillips.

Long midi skirt and bolero of smoothest cotton velvet provide the perfect setting of this exquisite hand embroidered tapestry designed exclusively for Woman’s Journal. Available from the Art and Needlework Department at Harrods. Full sleeved organza blouse with deep buttoned cuffs by Mr Fish.

Sharply tailored suiy in grey and white Jacquard. The blouse, soft and full, with gathered sleeves and neckline, pours from beneath the jacket into delicate ruffles. By Baccarat.

Left: Spotted pinafore dress of silk over soft, white blouse with full sleeves, by Caroline Charles. Right: Close-fitting midi in sheer cotton voile by Mary Quant Ginger Group.

Aquaphilia (Part 2)

1970s, alligator, Bermona, bus stop, chelsea cobbler, Dannimac, hans feurer, Honey Magazine, Inspirational Images, lee bender, mary quant, old england, Russell & Bromley, valstar, Vintage Editorials, Weathergay

Short, sharp, patent vinyl reefer jacket by Valstar. Perspex waterproof beach watch by Old England.

We know a girl… who can’t last the day without lashings of spray. We know a girl… who gets quite high on a bucket of tide. We know a girl… who gets no elation from dusty dehydration. We know a girl… who gets all her kicks from aquatic dips. We know a girl… who can’t get enough of that H20 stuff. We know a girl… who’s got pneumonia.

As promised, the waterproof outerwear counterpart to the last post.

Photographed by Hans Feurer in the Canary Islands.

Scanned from Honey, February 1970.